07-22-2003, 10:46 PM | #1 |
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Double Tubing Flare
Does anyone have any tricks/suggestions on HOW to make a double tubing flare??? I need to modify a brake line and it is somewhat heavy tubing. The stuff will not bend back on itself. Ive tried:
1. File the inside to get it a thinner wall tubing. (cracked) 2. Filed the outside to taper it. (a couple cracked, a couple ended up a single tubing flare) 3. Didn't do anything to it. Just tried to flare it as is. (ended up as a single flare) All of the above tries ended up as a single flare. Any ideas? Mike
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If a kid asks where rain comes from, I think a cute thing to tell him is “God is crying.” And if he asks why God is crying, another cute thing to tell him is “Probably because of something you did. John 3:16 2006 Chevy HHR 2000 Dodge Durango 1985 Jeep CJ-7 1970 Chevy Pickup |
07-22-2003, 11:41 PM | #2 |
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tubing flare
You might want to check-out a refer/ac supply house. They have a tubing kit that has a special adapter that makes a double flare. We use this on copper tubing thou. If this doesn't work you might want to take it to a brake shop or hydrolic shop. Good luck.
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07-23-2003, 09:26 AM | #3 |
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When you file the od, are you putting a 45 degree chamfer on the tubing?
If the tubing is not hardened than that should work. Could be a defective tube. Jim |
07-23-2003, 10:29 AM | #4 |
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You could try annealing it to soften the tube up and get rid of any work hardening. heat it up really hot and let it cool down to cold naturally. (no water)
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07-23-2003, 12:56 PM | #5 |
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I was having the same problem that you have, 1Ton. I posted this question a couple of months ago, and the agreed answer was "Get a better flaring tool."
Probably not any help, though. Sorry, Brian |
07-23-2003, 12:58 PM | #6 |
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You don't say what you are using to flare the tubing. In order to get the double flare you need special tools. The instructions call for a 45 degree bevel on the outside of the tubing. You use of a sort of die that has a pin that drops into the tubing. There are different size dies for each size of tubing. I did a bunch of them a couple of years ago. I replaced fuel and brake lines on a car from front to back. I couldn't buy the exact lengths of tubing that I wanted so I cut them and reflared. No real problems.
If you are using the correct tool then I would suggest that you get some new tubing and try a sample. Maybe there is something wrong with the tube you are trying to flare.
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07-23-2003, 02:47 PM | #7 |
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The best flaring tool you can afford or justify!
The best tip I know is when you get to the 'half way' point, the flare is still convex, use a punch to cave it in gently. That way the flarer does not spread the tube. Then use flarer to complete. Difficult to describe, does it make sense?
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07-23-2003, 07:52 PM | #8 |
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Hey All!
My answer was a better flaring tool. I picked up one from Advanced Auto that cost me $27.00. But it was a piece of crap. I'm taking it back and getting my money back. I found one at work and after getting a couple of lessons (I'm a slow learner LOL) from the maint supervisor, I was in business. This tool was alot higher quality and a different design. It double flared that tube like nothing. Thanks for all the suggestions! Mike
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If a kid asks where rain comes from, I think a cute thing to tell him is “God is crying.” And if he asks why God is crying, another cute thing to tell him is “Probably because of something you did. John 3:16 2006 Chevy HHR 2000 Dodge Durango 1985 Jeep CJ-7 1970 Chevy Pickup |
07-23-2003, 09:35 PM | #9 |
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If you are using a tubing cutter, it hardens the metal at the cut. I use a hack saw and something to hold the blade as square as possible when making the cut and then file the end smooth and square with a slight bevel. It solved my difficulty with making double flares.
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