how much are offroad parts (rear,front ends)

[chevymadness]

alright guys im wanting to lift my chevy silverado 82 6 inches im new to all this crap.This is the first truck i have and learning new things.I have a half ton And the front end is 10 bolt and 12 rear.so how much can these parts to buy me a 14 rear end with 4.56 gears and idk what i want for front what should i get.
How much is all this going to cost me just give me a idea.I also need to buy lockers how much are those

[83burban]

First - it would be much easier to buy a set of matching axles from a donor truck to avoid problems with gearing, wheel bolt pattern, and brakes. If you get a matching set of axles you will need the following to properly lift.

1) Extend Brake lines and upgrade the master cylinder an/or prop valve for to application the axles came from (ie - 3/4 ton MC and prop valve if axles are from 3/4 ton - same for 1 ton)

2) Extend your parking break cables

3) Get drive-shafts lengthened and install appropriate conversion U-Joints since the attachment pinions will be different sizes.

4) Upgrade your steering by installing a brace for gearbox and adding either an extended pitman arm or a cross over steering set-up (High Steer is best choice).

5) Change the fluids and do necessary maintenance to donor axles.

6) Get the lift springs obviously - don't use bocks on the front if all you can find are 4" - you could also go custom springs which IMHO are far better since you can tailor make them to your intended application.

7) Get new U-Bolts <<DO NOT USE OLD ONES>>

If you don't get a matching set you will have to do all of the above and re-gear as appropriate since front and rear gear ratios must be the same, make sure the brake system is compatible with the different size brakes between the 2 axles, get wheel adapters since the bolt patterns are different, and deal with any small issues that may arise with the swap.

As for cost - to do it safely and properly the first time you could easily spend 1000 if you get a matched pair and even more if you don't since a re-gear will cost a few hundred as well.

Hope this helps, others will chime in if I left something out.

[brad_man_72]

why are you going with such a large lift? What kind of truck are you building? (mall cruiser, trail rig, mud buggy, rock crawler) what's wrong with the axles you have now? Extreme driveline angles can be pretty expensive to deal with when it comes to driveshafts.

[Toxic Redline]

I would recomend a reverse (angled up) steering arm, the stock ones work but you will go throw drag links like once a year

[chevymadness]

Originally Posted by 83burban

First - it would be much easier to buy a set of matching axles from a donor truck to avoid problems with gearing, wheel bolt pattern, and brakes. If you get a matching set of axles you will need the following to properly lift.

1) Extend Brake lines and upgrade the master cylinder an/or prop valve for to application the axles came from (ie - 3/4 ton MC and prop valve if axles are from 3/4 ton - same for 1 ton)

2) Extend your parking break cables

3) Get drive-shafts lengthened and install appropriate conversion U-Joints since the attachment pinions will be different sizes.

4) Upgrade your steering by installing a brace for gearbox and adding either an extended pitman arm or a cross over steering set-up (High Steer is best choice).

5) Change the fluids and do necessary maintenance to donor axles.

6) Get the lift springs obviously - don't use bocks on the front if all you can find are 4" - you could also go custom springs which IMHO are far better since you can tailor make them to your intended application.

7) Get new U-Bolts <<DO NOT USE OLD ONES>>

If you don't get a matching set you will have to do all of the above and re-gear as appropriate since front and rear gear ratios must be the same, make sure the brake system is compatible with the different size brakes between the 2 axles, get wheel adapters since the bolt patterns are different, and deal with any small issues that may arise with the swap.

As for cost - to do it safely and properly the first time you could easily spend 1000 if you get a matched pair and even more if you don't since a re-gear will cost a few hundred as well.

Hope this helps, others will chime in if I left something out.

Hey man thanks! thats really impressive i will definetly do all of this and exactly what i was looking to learn.I will be looking for a set of axles shortly and really look into the gears being the same.

[chevymadness]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

why are you going with such a large lift? What kind of truck are you building? (mall cruiser, trail rig, mud buggy, rock crawler) what's wrong with the axles you have now? Extreme driveline angles can be pretty expensive to deal with when it comes to driveshafts.

Im building a truck that i can go into the desert with and offroad when i take my quad... also i want the look of a lifted truck but not to tall.Im not building it for any type of extreme purposes but i do want performance and it to look good with 35s and 14 inch rims..i was going to do a 4 inch lift but screw it im going with a 6 its just better and not much difference really.cheers

[csb#356]

I don't know if a 6 inch lift is better for your purposes to be honest. Its a lot cheaper to do a 4 inch lift. The lift itself is cheaper and then you don't have to extend the drivelines. And you could run 35" tires with a 4" lift.

[chevymadness]

Originally Posted by csb#356

I don't know if a 6 inch lift is better for your purposes to be honest. Its a lot cheaper to do a 4 inch lift. The lift itself is cheaper and then you don't have to extend the drivelines. And you could run 35" tires with a 4" lift.

eh yea if the cost creeps up to badly i will consider.But also i have a bone to pick with the rim size.I think the motometals i want usually come 16 and bigger so its going to look like some gangster crap with such huge rims and a lower truck thats why i raise it to.

[csb#356]

16 isn't very big. I think thats about the minimum size you can have to fit them over 3/4 ton breaks. Might even be 16.5

[PapaBo]

Originally Posted by csb#356

16 isn't very big. I think thats about the minimum size you can have to fit them over 3/4 ton breaks. Might even be 16.5

i have one ton axles on my truck and 16s just barely clear the calipers on my dana 60 front axle. i have seen people fit 15 inch rims on one ton axles by taking a grinder and taking some metal off the caliper although i wouldnt recommend doing that unless you have experience with it

[johnnypop]

4" lift on 35's looks better than taller trucks... Plus, that lift and tires will be high enough to suck when loading a quad, the lower the better. My truck is 4" with 35's and it's a pain to get my Raptor 660 in it. Also a short bed gets rougher the taller you go because the springs get more arched and makes the ride suck. 16-18" rims still look good with 35's... I think 20's is where you start to lose sidewall with that size tire.

I would start with a Rancho/ProComp/Skyjacker 4" lift since all it takes is front leaves, rear blocks, and 4 shocks. You can avoid brakelines and gearing changes until you figure out what you need from the truck and develop it from there.

[DetroitDan]

4.56 gears are too low for what you want to do. I wouldn't even think of running them unless the tires were upwards of about a 37-38. 4.10s are good with 35s, and 3.73s will work. All the offroad mags tell you to overgear everything, but all they know is rock climbing Jeeps. You're on the right track, anything over 33s and light off road is enough to justify losing the wimpy half ton axles.
Don't panic, you don't have to do everything that's been mentioned, and you certainly don't need to do it all at once. A steering arm or drag link can correct the steering, you won't need crossover or anything fancy like that. You don't really need to do much to run 35s. Stock driveshafts will be fine with a 4 inch. I have tried the front shims for front propellor shaft alignment, but they tend to break and fall out, so don't bother. Won't need it for 4 inch anyway.

Personally I like a 4 inch suspension and 3 inch bodylift. I know a lot of people hate bodylifts, bu in my experience they are just repeating stuff they've heard on pirate4x4 and dont really know what they're talking about. I've done numerous bodylifts and never had a bit of trouble. They are cheap and beneficial in several ways. More clearance for tires, more height visually, allows room to clean the mud and frogs out after wheeling, doesn't alter the steering geometry. Doesn't alter the frame height for towing applications, and depending on your states lift laws bumper and frame height get measured, not the body. So it's 3 inches height that wont put you over the legal limit.

I've heard a bunch of stories that they are dangerous and cause the body to fall off. I suspect that if the body falls off then you didn't install the body lift right in the first place. I've owned them for years with wheeling and yanking and all kinds of conditions and they don't fall off. It's just a matter of tightening the bolts down properly, then rechecking it after a couple hundred miles.

Sorry for the rant. I just hate when everyone badmouths bodylifts when it contradicts much of what I know firsthand.

[DetroitDan]

I had a set of 15x10 8 lug wheels, loved them. They make the tire look bigger, they have a better bead to keep the tire on when aired down, and 15" tires are cheaper. I had to grind down my calipers. Just spraypainted them, test fit, then ground off where it marked up the spraypaint. The metal is so thick and your only taking a 1/4 inch off, so you cant hurt the caliper.

[Rbcustoms]

Here is a 6in lift with 35 on 18's I think its a great look and the front drive line is still at a good working angle any bigger then you would have to spend some money on a high angle one

[chevymadness]

Originally Posted by Rbcustoms

Here is a 6in lift with 35 on 18's I think its a great look and the front drive line is still at a good working angle any bigger then you would have to spend some money on a high angle one

wow i have to say awesome truck nice taste in rims those look great.What are they.Thats the kind lift im wanting to do

[chevymadness]

Originally Posted by DetroitDan

4.56 gears are too low for what you want to do. I wouldn't even think of running them unless the tires were upwards of about a 37-38. 4.10s are good with 35s, and 3.73s will work. All the offroad mags tell you to overgear everything, but all they know is rock climbing Jeeps. You're on the right track, anything over 33s and light off road is enough to justify losing the wimpy half ton axles.
Don't panic, you don't have to do everything that's been mentioned, and you certainly don't need to do it all at once. A steering arm or drag link can correct the steering, you won't need crossover or anything fancy like that. You don't really need to do much to run 35s. Stock driveshafts will be fine with a 4 inch. I have tried the front shims for front propellor shaft alignment, but they tend to break and fall out, so don't bother. Won't need it for 4 inch anyway.

Personally I like a 4 inch suspension and 3 inch bodylift. I know a lot of people hate bodylifts, bu in my experience they are just repeating stuff they've heard on pirate4x4 and dont really know what they're talking about. I've done numerous bodylifts and never had a bit of trouble. They are cheap and beneficial in several ways. More clearance for tires, more height visually, allows room to clean the mud and frogs out after wheeling, doesn't alter the steering geometry. Doesn't alter the frame height for towing applications, and depending on your states lift laws bumper and frame height get measured, not the body. So it's 3 inches height that wont put you over the legal limit.

I've heard a bunch of stories that they are dangerous and cause the body to fall off. I suspect that if the body falls off then you didn't install the body lift right in the first place. I've owned them for years with wheeling and yanking and all kinds of conditions and they don't fall off. It's just a matter of tightening the bolts down properly, then rechecking it after a couple hundred miles.

Sorry for the rant. I just hate when everyone badmouths bodylifts when it contradicts much of what I know firsthand.

Yea thanks for the advice some one in my position love that kind of information.But i to agree the bad mouthing about body lifts everyone i know hates them.But its cause they look kind of ugly they say.Its just not the same.And how the clearance looks.i personally dont like body lifts but will admit that there under rated im sure there great but i will never do one.

[Rbcustoms]

Originally Posted by chevymadness

wow i have to say awesome truck nice taste in rims those look great.What are they.Thats the kind lift im wanting to do

They are american racing Trax 8 and the lift is a pro comp 6" all spring (no rear blocks) with remote reservoir shocks. You also may want to think about putting some traction bars on to help with wheel hop.

[chevymadness]

Originally Posted by Rbcustoms

They are american racing Trax 8 and the lift is a pro comp 6" all spring (no rear blocks) with remote reservoir shocks. You also may want to think about putting some traction bars on to help with wheel hop.

All spring hmm i bet the truck is super stiff and jumps around alot thats what i hear with that setup.Im sure you dont feel much because you have traction bars.But you would severly.I will think about it depends if i get blocks or not

[DetroitDan]

Originally Posted by chevymadness

All spring hmm i bet the truck is super stiff and jumps around alot thats what i hear with that setup.Im sure you dont feel much because you have traction bars.But you would severly.I will think about it depends if i get blocks or not

I bet if he went to the trouble and expense to build a beautiful truck like that with all spring and a high-dollar shock system, he probably has the suspension dialed in pretty good with the right spring rates and shocks adjust where he wants them. Just sayin'