Cost of a 67-72?

[dwalt14]

Can anyone give me a fairly good idea of what i would expect to pay for a 67-72 Chevy just rolling. Ideally if there was no rust or body damage? New to the old trucks and just looking at getting an idea so i dont get taken.
Thanks

[BlackTopMotors]

That's a tough one because of the variables. If you could provide a bit more details (year, long or short bed, accessories, what works...repainted or original...rust, missing parts... and pics would make it easier.

[dwalt14]

Its a 68 SWB. I havent actually gone to look at it so im not sure what all options it has on it. It doesnt have a motor or transmission and the guy says there is no rust on the cab, rocker panels, floorboards, etc. Does have faded paint job not factory

[treveiger]

What's hiding underneath that paint might be scary, id say ifs all good between 500-900 and that's if everything's still there except for the motor and tranny
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[BlackTopMotors]

I agree with Treveiger, make sure you really check it out, look for hidden repairs...get under it... look under doors, lower kick panels around windows under old rug...near ac/heater...check the frame, suspension... what works, what doesn't... It may be fine but when its not, it's going to be money, time and resources. You may want to make a list of needed items, do a bit of research on what it will take to get it to what you envision.

[dwalt14]

ok. Thanks for yalls help. Ill be sure to check all of that out. Their asking $1500 for it so i guess ill see where it goes.

[leddzepp]

Take a magnet.

[OJ1988]

You can probably find a driver for not much more than that.
Really depends on what you want to do, even if you want a new engine, if you start with a driver you don't have to worth about trying to find brackets pulleys, etc....
If your startingcwith a roller, you'll have to buy everything, and the little stuff adds up quick.
Like others said take a magnet, look for bondi, check rockers, inbers, cab corners, around the windshield, etc....

A solid roller is a fine project start, a rotted roller is a much more expensive and time consuming start.
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[67/72junkie]

Like Zepp said take a magnet and check it all over.Look all up under neath the cab and back of lower bedsides for repairs.If it is a good solid swb fleetside roller $1500 is a good deal.The bed alone is worth $1500 if nice.options ,tilt, tach,posi, buckets would make it worth more. Good luck!

[lil hoodlum]

Just my honest opinion but I don't believe a vehicle with no motor no transmission should be $1500. I think it should be less than a $1000. Maybe they "priced" it high for negotiation. After looking at it, try counter-offering something less.

And yes, all of those "small" things like hoses, wiring, and pulleys etc. do add up to quite a bit of money.

Good luck!

Keith

[Rightone1974]

I bought a 1968 3/4 ton long bed for $500 with motor tranny everything there except the carb. it has the 351 m v6 engine. It is a factory ac truck and power steering and power brakes. The guy I bought it from said it runs. The tabs are still good. Just needs a carb.

[67/72junkie]

I will buy a no rust 68 short bed roller for $1500 any day.There are lots of people who are willing to pay $1500 to $2000 for just the bed if nice enough.I have several beds of this quality collected for my personal builds I have planned and I turn down offers in this range for just a bed on a regular basis.It cost around $2500 just to build and aftermarket bed.Rust is the determining factor in the price.$1500 for a rust free roller is better than a rusty runner for $500 unless you just need transportation and then you are better off with something small and cheap on gas.If you are going to keep the truck and invest money in it you are better off with the most rust free truck you can get.motors are a dime a dozen and easy to change in these old trucks.Rust is a major problem and expensive to repair if you are not a body man or fabricator.

[Rightone1974]

Originally Posted by 67/72junkie

I will buy a no rust 68 short bed roller for $1500 any day.There are lots of people who are willing to pay $1500 to $2000 for just the bed if nice enough.I have several beds of this quality collected for my personal builds I have planned and I turn down offers in this range for just a bed on a regular basis.It cost around $2500 just to build and aftermarket bed.Rust is the determining factor in the price.$1500 for a rust free roller is better than a rusty runner for $500 unless you just need transportation and then you are better off with something small and cheap on gas.If you are going to keep the truck and invest money in it you are better off with the most rust free truck you can get.motors are a dime a dozen and easy to change in these old trucks.Rust is a major problem and expensive to repair if you are not a body man or fabricator.

Yea I agree with you, it is better to have a rolling rust free truck than a drivable rut bucket. I bought one with motor and light rust for $500. it will only take me a week to get the body ready to paint.

[70cst]

Good info all