noob in need of knowlege

[cahurst2001]

Hello errbody

I'll try to keep it simple and easy to read, so here goes:

My truck is a 1973 C10 that I drive maybe 30 miles a week. Currently has drop shackles in rear and cut (assuming) springs up front. I don't know exactly what the drop specs are, but I'm guessing a couple inches.

I plan on pretty much replacing as much of the entire front suspension with new components (tie rods, ball joints, spindle, coils, shocks, etc.) and poly bushings. Most of the bushings are cracked and just about everything is covered in rust. Not a huge issue bc I can tackle rust and repaint some things.

I want the lowest possible static drop without compromising driveability. Therefore, I've determined a 4/6 with a flip kit is the best way to go. Additionally, 3" drop spindles and a 1" cut off a factory coil seem to be the preferred method for the best ride.

I also want to run 15" smoothies for the rat rod look. A tall enough tire to be slightly tucked as well.

I want to do all of this with the best balance of quality, functionality, and cost effectiveness.

My questions:
What should I actually replace and what can I just derust, repaint, and reuse?

What company should I go with? I've heard good things about classic performance, and DJM has always done me well in the past.

Since I need new coils anyway, should I just buy some 1" drop coils instead of cutting stock ones?

What company is good for sway bars that aren't gonna destroy my wallet's size?

Is there going to be any clearance issue with the lower control arms? Should I replace either or both of the control arms or will replacing the cross shafts and adding new bushings be adequate? Remember, I would like to cut some costs here and there.

What backspacing should I use on the wheels? Any recommended tire sizes?

That's all. Sorry for the novel. Any other questions can be answered if I left a few out.

[tubbedII]

What should I actually replace and what can I just derust, repaint, and reuse?
I would replace the ball joints and bushings. Then, only replace the tie rods/steering components that actually need it. Everything else, just clean and paint unless damaged.

What company should I go with? I've heard good things about classic performance, and DJM has always done me well in the past.
Depending on what you need, check with our board vendors. It's always good to give them support.

Since I need new coils anyway, should I just buy some 1" drop coils instead of cutting stock ones?
Yes!

What company is good for sway bars that aren't gonna destroy my wallet's size?
Junk yard. Find a sway of a 8 lugger...cheap and great!

Is there going to be any clearance issue with the lower control arms? Should I replace either or both of the control arms or will replacing the cross shafts and adding new bushings be adequate? Remember, I would like to cut some costs here and there.
I don't know where there'd be clearance issues...but unless the arms are bent, no need to replace them. Just replace the bushings/ball joints as well as clean and paint!

What backspacing should I use on the wheels? Any recommended tire sizes?
Sorry, but not much help here. I guess if you find some stock rallies, back spacing will be fine. The only issue I see is finding out of 15" rallies work with 3" drop spindles, but I don't know the answer to that one either...

PS...WELCOME to the board!

[SCOTI]

15" ralleys work w/drop spindles. 2.5" spindles will have fewer back space related installation issues. 3" spindles typically require trimming the lip on the lower a-arm. The more back-spacing, the more that needs to be trimmed.

[cahurst2001]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

15" ralleys work w/drop spindles. 2.5" spindles will have fewer back space related installation issues. 3" spindles typically require trimming the lip on the lower a-arm. The more back-spacing, the more that needs to be trimmed.

With a 2.5" spindle, should I cut a little out of a 1" drop coil or just go with a 2"?

[cahurst2001]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

What company is good for sway bars that aren't gonna destroy my wallet's size?
Junk yard. Find a sway of a 8 lugger...cheap and great!

Direct bolt-on or will it take some fabrication? Any 8-lug of the 73-87 era?

Also, everyone seems to like the KYB drop shocks. Any differing opinions?

[SCOTI]

Go w/a 2" drop coil.
Any 73-87 HD truck (3/4 or 1-ton) 1.25" sway bar is a direct swap for 63-87 1/2 tons.
KYB GR-2's have a nice ride & are a little softer vs. their Gas-a-Just shocks.

[cahurst2001]

Awesome. Thanks for all the help. I should be making a build thread in the future.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Go w/a 2" drop coil.
Any 73-87 HD truck (3/4 or 1-ton) 1.25" sway bar is a direct swap for 63-87 1/2 tons.
KYB GR-2's have a nice ride & are a little softer vs. their Gas-a-Just shocks.

Very accurate information, but be forewarned. If your truck did not come with a sway bar, it will not have the frame stands that the bushing clamps bolt to. If you grab the sway bar from a salvage yard, you should know that the stands are riveted to the frame. They will require a torch, or grinder to remove them. Some yards will just cut that section of frame off for you.

Another option is the shorter or "lowered" stands that Early Classic Enterprises (ECE) sells. These will work fine a a moderately lowered truck.

The third option for those reading along and arent aware is bolting the bushing clamp directly to the frame. This method will work on extreme dropped or bagged trucks.

[cahurst2001]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Very accurate information, but be forewarned. If your truck did not come with a sway bar, it will not have the frame stands that the bushing clamps bolt to. If you grab the sway bar from a salvage yard, you should know that the stands are riveted to the frame. They will require a torch, or grinder to remove them. Some yards will just cut that section of frame off for you.

Another option is the shorter or "lowered" stands that Early Classic Enterprises (ECE) sells. These will work fine a a moderately lowered truck.

The third option for those reading along and arent aware is bolting the bushing clamp directly to the frame. This method will work on extreme dropped or bagged trucks.

Mine did come with factory sway bars.

[71Longbed]

what would you consider an extreme drop in other words at how many inches of lower should you just bolt the bushings to the frame?
\

[N2TRUX]

I don't have a specific formula for this application. A good rule of thumb would be static dropped will need the stock or lowered stands. A bagged truck will need lowered or no stands. Scoti can offer a better insight to this.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I don't have a specific formula for this application. A good rule of thumb would be static dropped will need the stock or lowered stands. A bagged truck will need lowered or no stands. Scoti can offer a better insight to this.

5" or more front drop & the sway bar can mount directly to the frame.