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Old 07-25-2003, 10:38 PM   #1
BrianStep72
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Help! Does anybody know PS repair thread?

Friends,

I know search is disabled and here i stand on the weekend ready to rebuild my Power Steering Gearbox and put new gaskets and fluid in it. (it has a bad leak). But I want to consult net knowledge first.

SO, I do my usual 'SEARCH' but it has been disabled (for a while it seems). Can anybody POINT me to a thread on this subject?

Sorry guys, I LOVE search but this should be an easy one..

Brian
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1941 Chevy Coupe Streetrod
1964 Chevy Nova SS
1964 Chevy C10 Stepside Pickup
1972 Chevy C10 Stepside Pickup
1987 Chevy IROC Z28 Camaro 1LE+TPI - racecar
2004 Chevy Tahoe
2013 Chevy Silverado Tow Rig
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Old 07-25-2003, 10:50 PM   #2
jef5150
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ask the questions and start one,,,,maybe faster,,,keep sending to the top.........jeff
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Old 07-25-2003, 11:01 PM   #3
BrianStep72
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I hate to do that, it's a waste of people's good time. But, since you asked..

HOW does one replace the gaskets in a power steering gearbox?
What are the parts that wearout and should I just replace all seals, gaskets, etc while in there?

I read something a long time ago about turning wheel one way and then back the other to get the seal broken loose, but I don't remember the details..

Can anybody spend 10 minutes and explain it to me?

Brian
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1941 Chevy Coupe Streetrod
1964 Chevy Nova SS
1964 Chevy C10 Stepside Pickup
1972 Chevy C10 Stepside Pickup
1987 Chevy IROC Z28 Camaro 1LE+TPI - racecar
2004 Chevy Tahoe
2013 Chevy Silverado Tow Rig
--------------------------------------
http://www.bowtieracing.org
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Old 07-26-2003, 10:28 AM   #4
JIMs70GMC
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I just replaced the steering input oil seal and dust shield on mine. Where's your's leaking at? They make master seal kits then they have seal kits for just the pitman arm shaft. I had to buy the master kit($44) just to get the two seals I needed. I took the gear box off and used two big pipe wrenches and one good whack to remove the end of the box. To remove the rag joint you need to make sure you take the clamp bolt all the way out and it should come off.

After you get it back on lift the front tire off the ground and steer the tire back and forth to get the air out of the system checking the resivior and adding fluid as needed.

As far as the bottom end of the gear, I'll defer to another member.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 07-27-2003, 11:32 AM   #5
BrianStep72
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Crap, NOW my 3-speed linkage is screwed up (jammed). I am having a hard time getting the truck in the right gear. Does anybody have a tip for me on this? I'm laying under the truck trying to get the linkage right...

yuck!

HELP!

Brian
__________________
1941 Chevy Coupe Streetrod
1964 Chevy Nova SS
1964 Chevy C10 Stepside Pickup
1972 Chevy C10 Stepside Pickup
1987 Chevy IROC Z28 Camaro 1LE+TPI - racecar
2004 Chevy Tahoe
2013 Chevy Silverado Tow Rig
--------------------------------------
http://www.bowtieracing.org
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