drip rail goo?

[sixty8chev]

I'm finally going to be getting around to painting my roof white and i was just wondering about stripping out my drip rails.
Theres a bead of silicon? under the paint, its all cracked
and its gotta go,
but i was wondering what it is and if it needs to be re-applied before i paint?

[68 Suburban]

3m makes something.

[casey]

go to your local auto paint store they will fix you up with the right stuff, I did mine I think it was called seam sealer, all I remember is it didn't have a very long working time, cause you have to smooth it out nice, I would make sure you strip out all the old stuff

[bobs409]

I used 3-M's Fast-n-firm. Comes in a tube you use in a caulking gun. (about $10)

It dries hard and works great in that location. The only problem I had with it was using it on the rear seam on the roof above back window. Mine developed a crack now so im re-doing it again and repainting. I think it's just too thin in this area and that's why it cracked. ???

[Tuck]

After you put the seam sealer on , to smooth it out , use laquer thinner in a spray gun, and while its wet smooth it out with your finger. Mine is perfect.
To get the old craked stuff off , use a wire wheel on a drill.

[68_c10_on20s]

im fixen to paint my roof as well and was wondering the exact same thing thanks for all the info

[nosto]

3M has a couple of products -
04226 Duramix urethane,
????? Automix - self leveling 2 part epoxy

I went with an Automix-type of product. It went on easy and smooth. Only problem was the vertical parts of the drip rail behind the doors. It sorta dribbled down to the bottom and on to the cab. Have to apply it a little at a time here.

This stuff required a special dual cartrige gun that my vendor let me buy, use and return. I needed to touch-up some spots after I had returned the gun, so I just squirted the stuff into a ZipLoc baggie, squished it around, cut a small hole in one corner, and squeezed it out. Worked pretty good, except that it got HOT!!!! Hot enough to burn your hands, so I used gloves the next time.

My $0.02 on Fast-n-Firm:
Had bad luck with it. Used it on a fender to body seam, then painted. The stuff cracked 3 weeks later. An old body work guy said not to use it anywhere you might expect the body to flex, even a little, because the F-n-F cures rock hard. Look for something that stays flexible.

Good Luck,

[SLS]

3M Heavy Drip-Check Sealer

SLS has attached this image:



An off-white, paintable, fast drying, flexable rubber base material that seals small cracks and other openings, such as drip rails, molding, cowling and welded seams. Heavy consistency makes this sealer especially suitable for vertical seams.


Remove all dirt, grease or foreign material. Apply sealer at least 1/16'' thick. Sealer must be thoroughly dry before painting. Clean up excess with lacquer thinner. On freshly painted surfaces allow sealer to dry thoroughly dry before removing excess. On old paint, glass, metal, ect remove excess sealer before it drys.

And like 'tuck' said...a wire wheel on a drill removes the old stuff quickly and use laquer thinner to smooth the new sealer out. It is VERY tacky at application...but sets up quickly.


Have fun!