Anyone do a Faux-Tina Paint job......

[rhodog77]

hey guys,

has anyone on the forum done a faux tina paint job. If so, do you have any pix to post, tips tricks or advice?? I have seen the "Trucks" episode a few times but was just wanted to get someone elses view.

[mr48chev]

For the life of me I can never figure out why anyone in his right mind would want "fake" worn out paint and pay to have it. I am sorry if I offend anyone but to me that says "hey look at me, I want to be one of the cool guys but don't know how".
A solid well built chassis under a truck with the real thing is cool but fake is fake.

[fredscarryall]

i did the fake patina. because i had about 6 diifferent colors on my suburban and i didnt have the 5 to 7 grand to put in a good paint job. you cant please every but you can make it easier on your pocket book.some people will either hate it and or love it.i spent about $100 in rattle can paint that i got from home depot.it wont cost you so much for a truck. they have a ton of different colors. you can choose satin or gloss. if you use gloss make sure you sand out the shine or it looks funny. and if you scratch your truck or want to shave a door handle,fill a gas hole or do something custom down the road,it very easy to repaint. it real easy.i just chose 4 different colors. i started with a brick color,then to dark grey,aqua and light blue. you want to do the thickiest coats on your first color.then i used 180 grit to bring out the layers. then just play around with it. its very easy to get carried away, so dont over do it or it will look strange. i over did it a bit ,so i am going spray more of the final layer and not sand out so much. i am going to a rattle can flat clear after i am done so i can wash it a little easier. i have been tracking ebay for a while and the chevy trucks that have the fake patina are seeming to sell better and faster then the show quality trucks.alot of people are hurting finacially right now and the show quality or good quality paint jobs are out of reach for alot of people. you also dont need alot of paint skill, this is something almost anyone can do in there driveway or garage with very little money. like it or not,the fake patina is really hot right now.

[sgtusmc]

I did it with me 53 and enjoyed it. My wife's 59 will also have it done, not because it's cheap and easy. It's what she wants. I've had some really deep scratches on my 53. It's nice to be able to whip out a brush and paint can. Sand it smooth and be done with it. mr48chev is right though...fake is fake. However, I hate rust. I don't think I'd get much sleep knowing that there's something I own rusting away. For me, it also becomes a safety issue with to much rust. I imagine it would be tricky to weld rusted out panels to new floorboards or new cab/bed mounts. I guess you could mount your seatbelts to the frame and hope for the best

We used rustoleum. We rolled it on. Some areas we did with the rattle can in the same color. I might try the Trucks way next. Do a google search for $50 paint job. There's plenty of guy's that go into detail on the roll on paint jobs.

[S10Fan]

I plan to do some sanding on mine and let nature take it's course. Some of the body panels on mine came from different sources (all factory, just very used) and I'll probably leave them as they are.

Just a note about rattle can or other non-automotive paint. Every spec of that stuff has to be removed should you or a future owner decide to give the truck a real paint job.

[duwem]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

For the life of me I can never figure out why anyone in his right mind would want "fake" worn out paint and pay to have it. I am sorry if I offend anyone but to me that says "hey look at me, I want to be one of the cool guys but don't know how".
A solid well built chassis under a truck with the real thing is cool but fake is fake.

Kind of like these designer jeans you see for sale for $100 that have the knees ripped out, and look like someone went over them with an angle grinder.

I like the Patina look. To find a good orignal one is not easy, need to get lucky to come across one that has "the look"

[57HotTruck]

I am a big fan of rat rods. Of course it's awesome if it is natural wear. but it can be made so that you can not see the difference
Look at this link


http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/.../photo_01.html


http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/...ina/index.html

[lakeroadster]

The Faux-Tina approach definately falls under the catagory of 'It's All Good".

I am literally just starting the process on my step side; check out my build thread in the signature line below. For me its a matter of money and convenience. I just simply don't want a shiny paint job for my shop truck. And I am always drawn to a vehicle that is "in-process" or "farm fresh" so this is the best of both worlds IMO.

My approach has been to save a bunch a photos of real sun worn weathered trucks of the style I have ('65 stepside). Loosely following the "Trucks Episode" approach I am currently rolling on primer. Then comes some color, sprayed on in a pattern following the photos I have. Then some wet sanding and Scotchbrite pads.

We'll see. Worse case scenario is I don't like it. Backup plan is simple too. Cover it all up with the same red-oxide primer. I am a fan of that too, that's what my old Model T pickup is sportin.

[chevyrestoguy]

It's really hard to fake patina and make it look real. What I have found on the old trucks is that the lacquer fades differently from panel to panel. I was bored and started messing around and did the CLR trick on my '64 to get the surface rust off of the original factory-applied lacquer job, and it is very apparent that the pieces were painted separately at the factory. My lower bedside faded almost all the way down to the black primer, the upper bedside was OK, the door not so much on top but more on the bottom (and had red primer), and the fender had hardly any fade except for the front leading edge. The cowl extension had almost zero fade. I did a part of the hood, and although it's lacquer checked really badly, the color is not faded down to the primer.

Before:


After:



What I'm getting at is that the real patina trucks have a very spotty, random, oddly faded consistency, whereas the faux-tina jobs almost look too-consistent. Does that make sense? Plus, GM liked to prime certain colors black and others red, and I rarely see anybody ever fake that. My truck is almost more faded on the bottom than it is on the top. Most faux-tina jobs are the opposite.

I don't dislike a fake patina job, but I can spot it a mile away.

[rhodog77]

Hey guys

thanks for the info so far. I have decided to go with the "fake" patina look cuz Im out of cash on this project. I love the real patina look but my truck is a frankenstein. Front fenders for Indiana, hood from Georgia, cab from Phoenix, bed from Atlanta, rear fenders from Louisville. The point is my truck is 7 diffferent colors right now. I have done 99.9% of the work on this truck myself....why hand it over to someone else to paint. If i wanted a shiney truck I would have bought one. This is way more fun. Thanks again for advice.

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

It's really hard to fake patina and make it look real. Plus, GM liked to prime certain colors black and others red, and I rarely see anybody ever fake that.

I don't dislike a fake patina job, but I can spot it a mile away.

So true. My old boss used to say "research, research, research". Check out this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=red+black

If enough photos of real patina are studied then it seems logical that one would have a much better chance of making a true artistic statement when simulating it.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Plus, GM liked to prime certain colors black and others red, and I rarely see anybody ever fake that. My truck is almost more faded on the bottom than it is on the top. Most faux-tina jobs are the opposite.

I noticed that when I was stripping down my truck, some had black primer and some had red oxide, I thought it was very strange.

I have seen some mixed fake and real patina on a truck, it looked good. It looked like they had fixed the lower rust on the cab and faux'ed it just enough to make it look right.



I'm taking a slighly different direction with my truck, I plan to spray it flat green with little body work...leaving some of the dents and dings. I will have fixed all the rust at this point. This way we can enjoy the truck, haul stuff with it, and I don't have to get mad at the kids when they step on the running boards, then the rear fenders to get into the bed.

[sgtusmc]

On my 59 I'm cutting out all the rusted areas and patching in new tin. New boards,cab corners and such. But, I'm leaving the dents. It's so hard for me not to hammer and dolly them straight. I can see how some folks wouldn't understand.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

So true. My old boss used to say "research, research, research". Check out this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=red+black

If enough photos of real patina are studied then it seems logical that one would have a much better chance of making a true artistic statement when simulating it.

You nailed it right on the head!!! A little bit of homework will go a long way.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

This way we can enjoy the truck, haul stuff with it, and I don't have to get mad at the kids when they step on the running boards, then the rear fenders to get into the bed.

That's exactly where I am with my 50. My 73 C-10 has new body panels, painted a nice satin finish, new 454, new 700R, PS, Cruise, Tilt, new this and new that. I can/would drive it anywhere. My 87 S-10 is slick and shiny, billet billet and more billet, full custom interior, 383/TH-350. I'm ready for a simple "beater" that's safe and can be driven anywhere without any "dent" concerns, and most importantly, it must be FUN!

[rhodog77]

I really like the CLR treatment. I will defintely buy a complete truck on my next project. Piecing parts together was very budget friendly but it was a ton of work and searching. Hopefully my next truck will have great natural patina and I wont have to go this route again. I have a good plan for painting this project. I guess we will see how well I can execute it.

[mr48chev]

The reason I don't much care for it is that every truck or part of a truck I own has worn out old paint on it and I just can't get excited about it as looking nice.
There was a time when I laid a fresh coat of primer on my 48 just about every Wednesday or Thursday night before a Central Texas rod run in the mid 70's. It was pretty common for guys in the club to swing by and find out where I planned to go that weekend and when. The truck didn't look great but it always looked fresh.
But driving a truck with any finish on it is still better than sitting and not driving the truck because you feel you can't afford to get it the way you want it. As long as it is fully safe to drive on the roads that is what counts in the end. I'm not sure there are big enough containers of CLR to clean the 48 up at the moment though.