changing wheel bearing

[Low87]

Gotta change the pass side wheel bearing, might as well do the drivers side while I'm at it. A buddy said to change the rotors at the same time so you have a new race. Looking at parts on rockauto, is all I'll need the rotors and the bearings? I've never done this repair before, so advice would be appreciated. This is on the 89 K5.

[ont_guy_38]

I'm not sure if the bearing race comes in new rotors . You should get a new race with the new bearing

[tantrumpipeline]

there is an inner bearing and dust seal, outer bearing, washer, castle nut, cotter pin and dust cap, new rotors for the price are worth while and the race is machined into them, I am just installing this setup today myself on my 68 which came with the 73-87 upgraded setup

[fastwillie 696969]

always use a new cotter pins ,is my advise

[ont_guy_38]

Originally Posted by tantrumpipeline

there is an inner bearing and dust seal, outer bearing, washer, castle nut, cotter pin and dust cap, new rotors for the price are worth while and the race is machined into them, I am just installing this setup today myself on my 68 which came with the 73-87 upgraded setup

Ah ok i couldn't quite remember it has been awhile

[Rons86]

If the rotors are original I would change them just to be safe. They do come with races, but they are pressed in not machined. If you are not sure of the age have the auto parts store check them. If they are good, get new bearing and races only.

[sumran]

If the rotors are flat and within spec, changing them is a waste of money, IMO. Rotors are a consumable (slowly, if the brakes are properly maintained) part that have a very simple job. The races are inexpensive and are designed to be replaced without replacing the rotors.

[Low87]

Ok, he made it sound like if you had to replace the race and not the rotor, it went outside the typical shadetree mechanic capabilities. No idea on the rotors, just thought for the price and knowledge of condition I'd change them anyways.

[tantrumpipeline]

Originally Posted by Rons86

If the rotors are original I would change them just to be safe. They do come with races, but they are pressed in not machined. If you are not sure of the age have the auto parts store check them. If they are good, get new bearing and races only.

my mistake, just had a look at mine and I stand corrected definietly pressed in

[sumran]

You can knock out the old races from the opposite side with a screwdriver and hammer. The new ones can be put in with a press but it is not necessary. Use a wood block to protect the edge and tap the new race in until flush. Then place the inverted old race on top of the new race and tap it in until fully seated. The old race will seem stuck at first but can pried out quickly with a screwdriver.

There are other ways to do it but this works well for me. If you decide to replace the rotors you will want to install new brake pads.
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[RandyP]

If you're worried about doing it Greg and need to practice on one... I'll buy the parts and you can practice on my 79.

btw, thanks again for the tires! I forgot about the rocker thing, let me know if I need to order that for you.

[Low87]

Thanks again guys. I think I'll just replace several things at once to get them updated. Side question - the pass bearing is now squeeling, how bad is it? Can it wait til this weekend or does it need to be done ASAP?

Randy - thanks for getting them out of my driveway! No hurry on the rockers, can't do anything with them for a while anyways.

[tantrumpipeline]

bow bad is the noise? have you inspected the brake pads? usually in my experiences the bearing will howl more than squeal, and once it starts it's doesn't take long to grenade, the brakes however find ways to squeal quite often from even road debris

[Low87]

Originally Posted by tantrumpipeline

bow bad is the noise? have you inspected the brake pads? usually in my experiences the bearing will howl more than squeal, and once it starts it's doesn't take long to grenade, the brakes however find ways to squeal quite often from even road debris

Maybe it's a howl, not sure. It's intermittent, mostly at speeds 35 & below. I haven't inspected the brakes. I work 7 days a week this time of year, so I don't really get into anything unless I have to. If I need to change the bearings tomorrow night I will, if not I'll wait til this weekend when I have a little more time.

[texastruckjunky]

Originally Posted by tantrumpipeline

there is an inner bearing and dust seal, outer bearing, washer, castle nut, cotter pin and dust cap, new rotors for the price are worth while and the race is machined into them, I am just installing this setup today myself on my 68 which came with the 73-87 upgraded setup

I thought a K5 was a 4 wheel drive blazer. So on the outer, there would be no Washer,castle nut,cotter pin, or dust cap. There would be a factory cover or lock out hub, spring, hub nut, washer, and another hub nut.

[LONGHAIR]

I would definitely look into this noise. It will be far more costly if you tear something up. If it is just brakes, which is more likely, they can wait a few days.
If the noise really is the wheel bearings....stop now.
A bearing that is making enough noise that you can hear it in the cab is hurting badly. It will get worse quickly. This is doubly important on a 4x4. If the bearings are worn enough the allow the wheel to tilt on the spindle, it can destroy the inner workings of your lock-out hubs.

BTW a brass punch is the best way to drive the races out. There is a cut-out area in the back side of the machined area where is fits just for that. You may need to clean some grease out of the way to see them though.
It's a fairly deep reach to the inner one, from the front side.

You are going to need a spindle-nut socket too and probably some snap ring pliers, depending upon which type of lock-out hubs you have.

[lilpoindexter]

Don't use a screwdriver, you might scratch or nick the surface the race goes in.
Harbor Freight has a seal installer/ remover tool that does the trick, and it helps you drive the new race in, nice square and easy. My 2wd 1/2 ton '78 had nice rotors, but i wanted to replace the bearings when I lowered it, because the old bearings looked like they had taken on water at some point.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html

Best $30 bucks you'll ever spend.

[tantrumpipeline]

Originally Posted by texastruckjunky

I thought a K5 was a 4 wheel drive blazer. So on the outer, there would be no Washer,castle nut,cotter pin, or dust cap. There would be a factory cover or lock out hub, spring, hub nut, washer, and another hub nut.

look at me all excited over my own junk I overlooked the main point of the problem, sorry I'm on a 2wd myself

[Low87]

No noise at all yesterday evening or this morning.

Yes, it is a 4x4.

[motornut]

i had low speed noise come from the front hubs
goes away higher speeds or
the squealers on the pads

[texastruckjunky]

Originally Posted by tantrumpipeline

look at me all excited over my own junk I overlooked the main point of the problem, sorry I'm on a 2wd myself

No worries i've been there my self from time to time.