Some Advise and Help - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Born Lucky · 07-03-2011, 12:25 PM

I am trying to remove my rear main seal but the seal is not moving.
I have a brass punch and all it is doing is sinking into the seal.
The seal is not pushing out the other side.
What suggestions do you readers have?

A.T. RockDriller · 07-03-2011, 12:42 PM

Well Lucky,

I assume you're changin' the seal in-frame.
If that's the case, try prying it out instead of pushing it through.
As you might imagine, driving it through with a punch (which works sometimes)
actually compresses it a bit.....but if you can get a slotted screw-driver between the seal and the block....drive it in-between them a quarter inch or so....and then pry with the handle going towards the outside and the tip digging into the seal and towards the crank journal....
It'll kind of stretch the seal, making it somewhat skinnier (rather than fatter when compressed) Of course, make sure to be nice to the seal surface on the crank. It's worked for me before without any problem.
Good luck.

Born Lucky · 07-03-2011, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A.T. RockDriller

Well Lucky,

I assume you're changin' the seal in-frame.
If that's the case, try prying it out instead of pushing it through.
As you might imagine, driving it through with a punch (which works sometimes)
actually compresses it a bit.....but if you can get a slotted screw-driver between the seal and the block....drive it in-between them a quarter inch or so....and then pry with the handle going towards the outside and the tip digging into the seal and towards the crank journal....
It'll kind of stretch the seal, making it somewhat skinnier (rather than fatter when compressed) Of course, make sure to be nice to the seal surface on the crank. It's worked for me before without any problem.
Good luck.

No the engine is out!
How many rod mounts can I Remove to Lift the crank up a bit!
This may help in removing the seal.

onequickchevy · 07-03-2011, 09:24 PM

Try screwing a drywall screw into the seal and pulling it out with pliers. There is a tool called a sneaky pete that basically does this for doing the job while the engine is still in. (I have personally never done as I am suggesting, but it's worth a shot.) Good luck !

**jocko** · 07-03-2011, 10:26 PM

Concur - use the Sneaky Pete. It's metal and shaped to the profile of the seal, and it pushes from one side while pulling from the other side, i.e. it slips the seal out from around the crank (you must have the rear main bearing cap off) - the pulling part is the other half of the equation and is essentially the same as onequickchevy's drywall screw suggestion. But by using the push half of the sneaky pete, the seal won't rip, it "should" just silp out around the crank. I won't b.s. ya, it's not as easy as it sounds, but having the motor out of the truck will absolutely help. I've used one once on a 57 chev while the engine was still in the car - so should be even easier with it out of the car. Be careful lusing a punch, could damage the crank or the bearing - which I assume you are not replacing because you're trying to keep the crank (almost all the way) in.

If you have the engine out - is it out JUST to replace the rear main seal? Must not be rebuilding if trying to keep the crank in. When you say "rod mount" I assume you're talkin connecting rod caps? Ya pretty much gotta take them all off - if that's what you're trying to do. And if that IS what you're trying to do, you're just a few more minutes from doing a total rebuild anyway....

Btw, the sneaky pete is made specifically for removing the seal with the crank IN the engine - so if you're not doing a rebuild, I'd forget about trying to get the crank up just a little bit trying to get the seal out - very likely to damage something by doing that - nick a journal, bearing half-shell, or crank itself.

Born Lucky · 07-04-2011, 11:04 AM

Thanks All!
I finally pulled the upper seal. Actually, after I read the posts and took a closer look at the seal I realized that it would take a little more effort. I had to use a steel punch,( as my brass one got bent on a strike), and with a few solid strikes the seal exited the other end. I used my MAC long reach needle nose from there on.

07-03-2011, 12:25 PM	#1
Born Lucky Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: St Charles MO Posts: 481	Some Advise and Help I am trying to remove my rear main seal but the seal is not moving. I have a brass punch and all it is doing is sinking into the seal. The seal is not pushing out the other side. What suggestions do you readers have?

07-03-2011, 12:42 PM	#2
A.T. RockDriller Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Orient, Oregon Posts: 722	Re: Some Advise and Help Well Lucky, I assume you're changin' the seal in-frame. If that's the case, try prying it out instead of pushing it through. As you might imagine, driving it through with a punch (which works sometimes) actually compresses it a bit.....but if you can get a slotted screw-driver between the seal and the block....drive it in-between them a quarter inch or so....and then pry with the handle going towards the outside and the tip digging into the seal and towards the crank journal.... It'll kind of stretch the seal, making it somewhat skinnier (rather than fatter when compressed) Of course, make sure to be nice to the seal surface on the crank. It's worked for me before without any problem. Good luck. __________________ Les Hunter '59 3803 someday to be 3853 '63 GMC K1000...351E, TH400 Daily '66 GMC 4000...351C, 5&2

07-03-2011, 09:24 PM	#4
onequickchevy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marianna, Florida Posts: 339	Re: Some Advise and Help Try screwing a drywall screw into the seal and pulling it out with pliers. There is a tool called a sneaky pete that basically does this for doing the job while the engine is still in. (I have personally never done as I am suggesting, but it's worth a shot.) Good luck ! __________________ Slowly but surely getting it done.

07-03-2011, 10:26 PM	#5
jocko Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Godley, TX Posts: 17,940	Re: Some Advise and Help Concur - use the Sneaky Pete. It's metal and shaped to the profile of the seal, and it pushes from one side while pulling from the other side, i.e. it slips the seal out from around the crank (you must have the rear main bearing cap off) - the pulling part is the other half of the equation and is essentially the same as onequickchevy's drywall screw suggestion. But by using the push half of the sneaky pete, the seal won't rip, it "should" just silp out around the crank. I won't b.s. ya, it's not as easy as it sounds, but having the motor out of the truck will absolutely help. I've used one once on a 57 chev while the engine was still in the car - so should be even easier with it out of the car. Be careful lusing a punch, could damage the crank or the bearing - which I assume you are not replacing because you're trying to keep the crank (almost all the way) in. If you have the engine out - is it out JUST to replace the rear main seal? Must not be rebuilding if trying to keep the crank in. When you say "rod mount" I assume you're talkin connecting rod caps? Ya pretty much gotta take them all off - if that's what you're trying to do. And if that IS what you're trying to do, you're just a few more minutes from doing a total rebuild anyway.... Btw, the sneaky pete is made specifically for removing the seal with the crank IN the engine - so if you're not doing a rebuild, I'd forget about trying to get the crank up just a little bit trying to get the seal out - very likely to damage something by doing that - nick a journal, bearing half-shell, or crank itself.

07-04-2011, 11:04 AM	#6
Born Lucky Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: St Charles MO Posts: 481	Re: Some Advise and Help Thanks All! I finally pulled the upper seal. Actually, after I read the posts and took a closer look at the seal I realized that it would take a little more effort. I had to use a steel punch,( as my brass one got bent on a strike), and with a few solid strikes the seal exited the other end. I used my MAC long reach needle nose from there on.



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