floor pan question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

60ratrod · 07-03-2011, 01:03 AM

so before i scab in my replacement driver's floor pan, do i need the plate that was between the floor pan and cab support or would it be ok to go with out it? i mangled it when trying to remove the mount bolt, and it was rather rotted.

bcutt · 07-03-2011, 08:30 AM

I assume you are talking about the front fender cup? If so then yes I'm pretty they need to be in place. I couldn't find an aftermarket replacement so I reused mine after cleaning it up. I would think you have to have that cup as support when you tighten down the bottom fender bolt.

tap500 · 07-03-2011, 09:32 AM

I believe BCUTT is talking about this part which is readily available where ever they sell patch panels. It is the lower pillar.

http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-...ctinfo/44-220/

The only other panel with a hole is where the cab mounting bolt goes through and the cab support runs under it. That is something that I have not seen sold anywhere, hopefully someone can let us know if there is a source for these. I would recommend trying to fab a new one as it is hidden and not very complex so it won't have to be perfect. All parts in the floor area were put there to help give the floor strength and there are a lot of spot welds between the floor and this panel to stiffen the floor.

http://ebfabman.com/id28.htm

By the way the videos from the second link are worth getting as they are very comprehensive and will help save time and headaches if you are doing one of these for the first time

mbgmike · 07-03-2011, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tap500

I believe BCUTT is talking about this part which is readily available where ever they sell patch panels. It is the lower pillar.

http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-...ctinfo/44-220/

The only other panel with a hole is where the cab mounting bolt goes through and the cab support runs under it. That is something that I have not seen sold anywhere, hopefully someone can let us know if there is a source for these. I would recommend trying to fab a new one as it is hidden and not very complex so it won't have to be perfect. All parts in the floor area were put there to help give the floor strength and there are a lot of spot welds between the floor and this panel to stiffen the floor.

http://ebfabman.com/id28.htm

By the way the videos from the second link are worth getting as they are very comprehensive and will help save time and headaches if you are doing one of these for the first time

are you talking about the long floor brace that runs parallel to the frame? if so those are reproduced. $60.00 each

X2 on the videos

bcutt · 07-03-2011, 09:55 AM

I think he is talking about the lower fender cup that bolts behind the front lower pillar and is sandwiched between the front cab support and the lower pillar. Mine was rusted pretty bad so I sandblasted them and gave them a coat of paint because I couldn't find any replacements available.

mbgmike · 07-03-2011, 10:25 AM

that cup where the lower fender bolt is integral with the pillar. the earlier years were bolted on.

60ratrod · 07-03-2011, 04:47 PM

I still have the lower part of the pillar. I cut it off since it was rotted half way through and will weld it back on. The piece i am talking about is sandwiched between the floor pan and the floor brace and cab support. Looks like i'm stuck fabbing one. How do i make the divit that the bolt goes through?
Posted via Mobile Device

mbgmike · 07-04-2011, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 60ratrod

I still have the lower part of the pillar. I cut it off since it was rotted half way through and will weld it back on. The piece i am talking about is sandwiched between the floor pan and the floor brace and cab support. Looks like i'm stuck fabbing one. How do i make the divit that the bolt goes through?
Posted via Mobile Device

actually that part is made seperate now and we sell them for $13.00 a pair

60ratrod · 07-05-2011, 06:32 PM

you're talking about this part right? just below the tow board on top of the cab support. i just wanna make sure we are on the same page. because if so i need those!

mbgmike · 07-06-2011, 04:16 PM

sorry wrong part. I don't know anyone that makes those

tap500 · 07-07-2011, 09:33 AM

To make the divit you could make a buck using a block of wood. With some hardwood or even 3/4" plywood use a hole saw to cut a hole that is slightly larger than the divet. Use a Balpeen hammer to hammer the sheet metal over the hole. Cut thinner disks with the hole saw and use them in the hole as shims to make sure you do not hammer the metal down too far (deep). After you have the proper divit, drill the hole for the cab mount bolt and trim the piece to size. Does not have to be perfect as as it will be covered up.

07-03-2011, 01:03 AM	#1
60ratrod yes, i do Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Spokane, wa Posts: 2,734	floor pan question so before i scab in my replacement driver's floor pan, do i need the plate that was between the floor pan and cab support or would it be ok to go with out it? i mangled it when trying to remove the mount bolt, and it was rather rotted. __________________ ERROR 404....... SNAPPY COMEBACK NOT FOUND _______________________________________________________________________________________________ -60 Chevy C10, dead 350/good th350 combo, sitting on a 76 c10 blazer frame, built from 11 different vehicles "the abomination" -07 gmt900 silverado 1500 lt xcab z71, granite blue -81 suzuki gs650g "shelah"- current project -81 kz1000m1 csr "sarge" -next project (just beautification) -07 kawasaki vulcan classic vn900

07-03-2011, 08:30 AM	#2
bcutt Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: North GA Posts: 400	Re: floor pan question I assume you are talking about the front fender cup? If so then yes I'm pretty they need to be in place. I couldn't find an aftermarket replacement so I reused mine after cleaning it up. I would think you have to have that cup as support when you tighten down the bottom fender bolt. __________________ "Some of my finest hours have been spent on my back veranda, smoking hemp and observing as far as my eye can see." - Thomas Jefferson 72 C10 SWB "Work in Progress"

07-03-2011, 09:32 AM	#3
tap500 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Farmington CT Posts: 41	Re: floor pan question I believe BCUTT is talking about this part which is readily available where ever they sell patch panels. It is the lower pillar. http://www.classicparts.com/1967-72-...ctinfo/44-220/ The only other panel with a hole is where the cab mounting bolt goes through and the cab support runs under it. That is something that I have not seen sold anywhere, hopefully someone can let us know if there is a source for these. I would recommend trying to fab a new one as it is hidden and not very complex so it won't have to be perfect. All parts in the floor area were put there to help give the floor strength and there are a lot of spot welds between the floor and this panel to stiffen the floor. http://ebfabman.com/id28.htm By the way the videos from the second link are worth getting as they are very comprehensive and will help save time and headaches if you are doing one of these for the first time

07-03-2011, 09:55 AM	#5
bcutt Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: North GA Posts: 400	Re: floor pan question I think he is talking about the lower fender cup that bolts behind the front lower pillar and is sandwiched between the front cab support and the lower pillar. Mine was rusted pretty bad so I sandblasted them and gave them a coat of paint because I couldn't find any replacements available. __________________ "Some of my finest hours have been spent on my back veranda, smoking hemp and observing as far as my eye can see." - Thomas Jefferson 72 C10 SWB "Work in Progress"

07-03-2011, 10:25 AM	#6
mbgmike Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pasadena,Tx /Pto Pta DR Posts: 5,415	Re: floor pan question that cup where the lower fender bolt is integral with the pillar. the earlier years were bolted on.

07-03-2011, 04:47 PM	#7
60ratrod yes, i do Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Spokane, wa Posts: 2,734	Re: floor pan question I still have the lower part of the pillar. I cut it off since it was rotted half way through and will weld it back on. The piece i am talking about is sandwiched between the floor pan and the floor brace and cab support. Looks like i'm stuck fabbing one. How do i make the divit that the bolt goes through? Posted via Mobile Device __________________ ERROR 404....... SNAPPY COMEBACK NOT FOUND _______________________________________________________________________________________________ -60 Chevy C10, dead 350/good th350 combo, sitting on a 76 c10 blazer frame, built from 11 different vehicles "the abomination" -07 gmt900 silverado 1500 lt xcab z71, granite blue -81 suzuki gs650g "shelah"- current project -81 kz1000m1 csr "sarge" -next project (just beautification) -07 kawasaki vulcan classic vn900

07-05-2011, 06:32 PM	#9
60ratrod yes, i do Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Spokane, wa Posts: 2,734	Re: floor pan question you're talking about this part right? just below the tow board on top of the cab support. i just wanna make sure we are on the same page. because if so i need those! Attached Images __________________ ERROR 404....... SNAPPY COMEBACK NOT FOUND _______________________________________________________________________________________________ -60 Chevy C10, dead 350/good th350 combo, sitting on a 76 c10 blazer frame, built from 11 different vehicles "the abomination" -07 gmt900 silverado 1500 lt xcab z71, granite blue -81 suzuki gs650g "shelah"- current project -81 kz1000m1 csr "sarge" -next project (just beautification) -07 kawasaki vulcan classic vn900

07-06-2011, 04:16 PM	#10
mbgmike Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pasadena,Tx /Pto Pta DR Posts: 5,415	Re: floor pan question sorry wrong part. I don't know anyone that makes those

07-07-2011, 09:33 AM	#11
tap500 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Farmington CT Posts: 41	Re: floor pan question To make the divit you could make a buck using a block of wood. With some hardwood or even 3/4" plywood use a hole saw to cut a hole that is slightly larger than the divet. Use a Balpeen hammer to hammer the sheet metal over the hole. Cut thinner disks with the hole saw and use them in the hole as shims to make sure you do not hammer the metal down too far (deep). After you have the proper divit, drill the hole for the cab mount bolt and trim the piece to size. Does not have to be perfect as as it will be covered up.



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