Engine installation - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

zac · 07-03-2011, 11:24 PM

Trying to get the new engine in my K10 burb, picture is after failed attempt #1. I've never actually installed an engine in one of these, and never in a manual trans vehicle. I should have an engine leveller but don't. I think I've got it hooked up right this time for a better angle. Getting the pan over the crossmember and then getting the input shaft into the throwout bearing and disc--painful. I did use a clutch alignment tool. On the first attempt the clutch fork popped the clip on the pivot ball, it is taken care of now. Throwout bearing is very uncooperative. If you guys have any tips or tricks, I would really appreciate it.

BMERDOC · 07-03-2011, 11:52 PM

If you let the air outta the tires it'll get it a lot lower and you won't have such an aggressive angle. I can only image your just about topping out your picker to get it over the grill. try that and see if it helps.

1968CHEVYC10 · 07-04-2011, 12:01 AM

The transmission is still in the truck? This is what I would do, remove the transmission, bolt the bellhousing the the motor then put the motor in, and install the transmission after that. The bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing are easier to get to (and there's less of them) than the bellhousing bolts. That way you wont have to mess with line stuff up when you put the motor in.

BMERDOC · 07-04-2011, 12:05 AM

The trans couldn't still be bolted in the truck...could it? Dang! Part of answering threads is not to take anything for granted!!

prostreetC-10 · 07-04-2011, 01:34 AM

HOLY CRAP. Motors can come out that way but certainly not go in that way. Well they could but way to big of a fight. You have more work ahead of you I'm afraid. I've done some with a TH400 still completely in place but even that is a little fight. The angles are just wrong.

treveiger · 07-04-2011, 02:40 AM

What kind of tranny?
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bellemare_486 · 07-04-2011, 04:03 AM

! have to do this task this month with a 350 and an np 4spd in a 67 3/4. Bellhousing on the motor and get someone in the cab to help move it into place. A new pilot bearing can make that last little bit tight. Don't tighten your motor mount bolts until you have things lined up. Stop when you are nol onger having fun.

69heavychevy · 07-04-2011, 09:12 AM

installing the motor and tranny as one unit makes a whole lot easier...also removing the core support can give you a more comfortable working space.

zac · 07-04-2011, 09:17 AM

The trans/transfer case are still installed. I have plenty of overhead room in my "shop", going up and over is no probem. The angles are pretty bad, but the transfer case mount gives you alot of up and down play. The biggest problem was keeping the throwout bearing in place, and I had a bad angle to start with. Plus it was about 150 degrees and I was working with a 15 yr-old who wanted to be somewhere else.

Plan B may be to put the bellhousing on the trans and try again. That will take the throwout bearing and fork out of play, the problem being I will have to visually align the input shaft and disc from underneath. Plan C will be to unbolt the the rear crossmember and roll the trans/transfer case back. I did that last summer when I was doing some other work and it went OK.

Flint70step · 07-04-2011, 09:51 AM

I would pull the front clip off to make things a ton easier.Have a friend help you lift it off,not many bolts to remove.Then you have a nice straight shot and your engine isn't 10' in the air.Put your Trans on the motor first and it will save some headache.Bolt the motor and trans together on the ground.Then roll your combo on in and bolt her up.Nice access all around and you won't get all those greasy hand prints on your fenders.Don't forget to put in a new pilot bushing!!

bollybib · 07-04-2011, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bellemare_486

....Stop when you are no longer having fun.

Excellent advice.

bellemare_486 · 07-07-2011, 08:07 PM

I didn't realize that it was a 4x4. With my 2wdr 3/4 it has the crossmember that the bellhousing bolts to. Motor and tranny(granny low) together will not go between this crossmember and the firewall. The 4x4 support is via the trans. case so motor and tranny should go in together. Keep the motor on the hoist until you have it all lined up.

zac · 07-07-2011, 09:07 PM

Got it in the next time I tried--early in the morning and better rested. Did it by myself in less than an hour. Put the bellhousing on the trans first. It was still a game of inches and I had to jack up the trans a bit to get it aligned, but it went in relatively easily. Hung a bit on the new pilot bushing, but tweaking the alignment a bit and some mild jiggling took care of it.

But of course my brand new repro Indian motor mounts didn't align with the frame holes. Loosened the transfer case mounts, pried with a big screw driver, lifted the engine an inch or so to give the bolts an angle. Took over 2 hours to get 2 bolts in.

Hooking up clutch linkage I realized the stupid relase fork had popped the clip again. I was baffled since I thought I had taken care of that by using the one from my parts truck that seemed to fit tighter. Everyone says you can't get the fork and clip back in without pulling the trans, everyone appears to be right. I broke it trying to get it in, when I went to the computer to order a new one and saw a picture of what the clip was supposed to look like, I realized the problem. Both the fork clips I had were broken--in exactly the same place, so they looked identical to me and I had no idea since I had never seen one before. So the trans and transfer case will slide back when my new clip and ball arrive. So maybe order a new clip if you have a manual trans and are doing an engine change.

treveiger · 07-07-2011, 10:02 PM

What clips are you talking about exactly?
Posted via Mobile Device

zac · 07-07-2011, 10:11 PM

LMC calls it a retaining clip, it fits into a groove in the fork that holds the "pivot ball stud-fork" in the socket in the fork. The clip is sort of round and loops outward at each end. Mine were both broken and had the loop on only one end. Check the clutch page of any catalog to see what it looks like.

1968CHEVYC10 · 07-07-2011, 11:49 PM

When I put a new clutch in back in dec. my retaining clip broke off and I just went without it, been workin' fine ever since.

zac · 07-08-2011, 08:51 AM

I can see that. I think the clip was popped on my truck the whole time I was driving it (since March 2010). But it also might explain why I had to change the throwout bearing a few months after I bought it. And the "lifter noise" that came and went when the pressure plate was hitting the fork. When you work the clutch sometimes everything clears when let off, sometimes it doesn't. Apparently yours works out. I've just gone through alot of work here, and I can't see knowlingly leaving something not right. I'm already dirty and pissed off, I'll just keep channeling my anger and it will be over soon.

07-03-2011, 11:52 PM	#2
BMERDOC Registered User Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Richmond,Va Posts: 2,934	Re: Engine installation If you let the air outta the tires it'll get it a lot lower and you won't have such an aggressive angle. I can only image your just about topping out your picker to get it over the grill. try that and see if it helps. __________________ Nick Carter 1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside Project Cheap Thrills! 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments Easiest Alignment Ever!

07-04-2011, 12:01 AM	#3
1968CHEVYC10 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Tomball, TX Posts: 578	Re: Engine installation The transmission is still in the truck? This is what I would do, remove the transmission, bolt the bellhousing the the motor then put the motor in, and install the transmission after that. The bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing are easier to get to (and there's less of them) than the bellhousing bolts. That way you wont have to mess with line stuff up when you put the motor in. __________________ '68 C10 LWB 6.2NA/NP833 3.73's

07-04-2011, 12:05 AM	#4
BMERDOC Registered User Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Richmond,Va Posts: 2,934	Re: Engine installation The trans couldn't still be bolted in the truck...could it? Dang! Part of answering threads is not to take anything for granted!! __________________ Nick Carter 1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside Project Cheap Thrills! 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments Easiest Alignment Ever!

07-04-2011, 01:34 AM	#5
prostreetC-10 My Carbon Footprint Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Orygun Posts: 5,527	Re: Engine installation HOLY CRAP. Motors can come out that way but certainly not go in that way. Well they could but way to big of a fight. You have more work ahead of you I'm afraid. I've done some with a TH400 still completely in place but even that is a little fight. The angles are just wrong. __________________ A quick "pedalfest" *Still getting loose (carb test)* 496 Initial fire up video!

07-04-2011, 02:40 AM	#6
treveiger Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South Dakota Posts: 4,093	Re: Engine installation What kind of tranny? Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1969 Chevy c20(Miss Hackjob)

07-03-2011, 11:24 PM	#1
zac Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 502	Engine installation Trying to get the new engine in my K10 burb, picture is after failed attempt #1. I've never actually installed an engine in one of these, and never in a manual trans vehicle. I should have an engine leveller but don't. I think I've got it hooked up right this time for a better angle. Getting the pan over the crossmember and then getting the input shaft into the throwout bearing and disc--painful. I did use a clutch alignment tool. On the first attempt the clutch fork popped the clip on the pivot ball, it is taken care of now. Throwout bearing is very uncooperative. If you guys have any tips or tricks, I would really appreciate it. Attached Images

07-04-2011, 04:03 AM	#7
bellemare_486 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Vernon, B.C. Posts: 17	Re: Engine installation ! have to do this task this month with a 350 and an np 4spd in a 67 3/4. Bellhousing on the motor and get someone in the cab to help move it into place. A new pilot bearing can make that last little bit tight. Don't tighten your motor mount bolts until you have things lined up. Stop when you are nol onger having fun. __________________ GENERALM

07-04-2011, 09:12 AM	#8
69heavychevy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Garland,TX Posts: 431	Re: Engine installation installing the motor and tranny as one unit makes a whole lot easier...also removing the core support can give you a more comfortable working space.

07-04-2011, 09:17 AM	#9
zac Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 502	Re: Engine installation The trans/transfer case are still installed. I have plenty of overhead room in my "shop", going up and over is no probem. The angles are pretty bad, but the transfer case mount gives you alot of up and down play. The biggest problem was keeping the throwout bearing in place, and I had a bad angle to start with. Plus it was about 150 degrees and I was working with a 15 yr-old who wanted to be somewhere else. Plan B may be to put the bellhousing on the trans and try again. That will take the throwout bearing and fork out of play, the problem being I will have to visually align the input shaft and disc from underneath. Plan C will be to unbolt the the rear crossmember and roll the trans/transfer case back. I did that last summer when I was doing some other work and it went OK.

07-04-2011, 09:51 AM	#10
Flint70step Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Lake Travis,Texas Posts: 586	Re: Engine installation I would pull the front clip off to make things a ton easier.Have a friend help you lift it off,not many bolts to remove.Then you have a nice straight shot and your engine isn't 10' in the air.Put your Trans on the motor first and it will save some headache.Bolt the motor and trans together on the ground.Then roll your combo on in and bolt her up.Nice access all around and you won't get all those greasy hand prints on your fenders.Don't forget to put in a new pilot bushing!! __________________ 72 Cheyenne Super LWB 350/350 Factory A/C Tilt/Posi White/Med Red/White(on the way) 72 Custom Deluxe Burb(Arizona truck)Nice interior Great patina Project Patina Azul http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=467668 Last edited by Flint70step; 07-04-2011 at 09:56 AM.

07-07-2011, 08:07 PM	#12
bellemare_486 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Vernon, B.C. Posts: 17	Re: Engine installation I didn't realize that it was a 4x4. With my 2wdr 3/4 it has the crossmember that the bellhousing bolts to. Motor and tranny(granny low) together will not go between this crossmember and the firewall. The 4x4 support is via the trans. case so motor and tranny should go in together. Keep the motor on the hoist until you have it all lined up. __________________ GENERALM

07-07-2011, 09:07 PM	#13
zac Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 502	Re: Engine installation Got it in the next time I tried--early in the morning and better rested. Did it by myself in less than an hour. Put the bellhousing on the trans first. It was still a game of inches and I had to jack up the trans a bit to get it aligned, but it went in relatively easily. Hung a bit on the new pilot bushing, but tweaking the alignment a bit and some mild jiggling took care of it. But of course my brand new repro Indian motor mounts didn't align with the frame holes. Loosened the transfer case mounts, pried with a big screw driver, lifted the engine an inch or so to give the bolts an angle. Took over 2 hours to get 2 bolts in. Hooking up clutch linkage I realized the stupid relase fork had popped the clip again. I was baffled since I thought I had taken care of that by using the one from my parts truck that seemed to fit tighter. Everyone says you can't get the fork and clip back in without pulling the trans, everyone appears to be right. I broke it trying to get it in, when I went to the computer to order a new one and saw a picture of what the clip was supposed to look like, I realized the problem. Both the fork clips I had were broken--in exactly the same place, so they looked identical to me and I had no idea since I had never seen one before. So the trans and transfer case will slide back when my new clip and ball arrive. So maybe order a new clip if you have a manual trans and are doing an engine change.

07-07-2011, 10:02 PM	#14
treveiger Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South Dakota Posts: 4,093	Re: Engine installation What clips are you talking about exactly? Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 1969 Chevy c20(Miss Hackjob)

07-07-2011, 10:11 PM	#15
zac Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 502	Re: Engine installation LMC calls it a retaining clip, it fits into a groove in the fork that holds the "pivot ball stud-fork" in the socket in the fork. The clip is sort of round and loops outward at each end. Mine were both broken and had the loop on only one end. Check the clutch page of any catalog to see what it looks like.

07-07-2011, 11:49 PM	#16
1968CHEVYC10 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Tomball, TX Posts: 578	Re: Engine installation When I put a new clutch in back in dec. my retaining clip broke off and I just went without it, been workin' fine ever since. __________________ '68 C10 LWB 6.2NA/NP833 3.73's



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07-08-2011, 08:51 AM	#17
zac Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: louisville, ky Posts: 502	Re: Engine installation I can see that. I think the clip was popped on my truck the whole time I was driving it (since March 2010). But it also might explain why I had to change the throwout bearing a few months after I bought it. And the "lifter noise" that came and went when the pressure plate was hitting the fork. When you work the clutch sometimes everything clears when let off, sometimes it doesn't. Apparently yours works out. I've just gone through alot of work here, and I can't see knowlingly leaving something not right. I'm already dirty and pissed off, I'll just keep channeling my anger and it will be over soon.

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