Are lowering blocks a waste of time

[mjo8585]

Hey I plan on lowering my '68 C-10 5 1/2 in front and 6 in the rear. 4 in coils and 2 in lowering blocks in rear and c-notch too. Will this create a stiff ride. I dont want airbags. I want a slammed look I know very little about all this so thanks for the help.

[screaminchevypickup]

They make 6 inch lowering springs for the rear ece makes them but I run blocks and they work good I have the 6 inch springs and 2 inch blocks on the back of one of my rides
Posted via Mobile Device

[ChevLoRay]

Where do you plan on putting the blocks? Why?

These trucks have benefited by the numbers of companies that make what you need to lower it safely and also have a good ride. I can see blocks on a leaf spring vehicle...but that's old school.

Look at www.earlyclassic.com and see what they offer. It's what I have, as do many others.

[BMERDOC]

Lowering blocks are a viable method for lowering a truck. Your gonna need trailing arm style blocks. Best method is to build them yourself. There is a DIY thread on this forum. Cheaper and better. I got my u bolts from WWW.ATSSPRINGS.COM (pn# BT8-304R, Size 5/8x3x10-5/8) for $30.00 shipped. Some trimming of the bolt will be required once installed. I bought 2" square tubing (14") for $10.00 from a machine shop. The kits are twice that and have aluminum blocks.

Here it is:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=196457

[ChevLoRay]

Okay, I'm enlightened.

[original-71]

6" coil from ece and you do not have to c-notch unless you plan on haulin around stuff

[brad_man_72]

lowering blocks keep the trailing arms at a better angle. Produces less squat/more traction. That's what I've heard anyways.

[bigguy69]

i was wondering if you used 2" blocks and 4" springs if you could get by without shock relcoators?

[BMERDOC]

I don't believe shock relocators are needed for a four inch drop so no. The shocks are unaffected by blocks.

[Frkypunk70]

I have a 6/4.5 drop no blocks no c notch. I am able to haul stuff around and it rides nice. I did have to trim bump stops in the rear though. Plus a good sway bar and some gr2's all the way around help out too.I do have shock relocaters on the back though.

[BMERDOC]

If you feel the need for relocators and your out in the shop fabbin' rear blocks anyway use this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=359399

[Kid]

heres my 2 cents...the geometry between the axle c/l & rear end support (trailing arm) is affected with lowering blocks. The further the axle c/l is from the rear end support, the less strength the assy. has. Remember, axle torque is trying to twist the rear end & support (trailing arms) during acceleration. That said, I have a set of lowering blocks on my 59 ranchwagon because it was cheaper than dearched leaf springs, but if you have better options available, (& within budget) might as well use them. lowering springs in various heights are available, don't affect geometry like the lowering blocks, & are fairly cheap. Oh yea, for the record, my 68 has 5" lowering springs in the rear, & bounces the bump stops more than I like. ( no C notch)