Long to Short bed

[kaycee]

Any one have a how to on shortening the long stepside box to a short bed?I know the frame needs shortened allso just weighing on some ideas.

[tmoble]

search around on here a little. I think the frame has to be shortened both ahead and behind the rear axle.

[kaycee]

YEAH I was wondering more on the bed itself and not the frame,I know the steps need changed or shortened.There is a post here somewhere on here that someone has done it but I sure can't find it.I think someone from the 67-72 spot had done it

[ME.]

I made mine a mid length bed. Took 9 inches out of the front and left the rear alone. Now the back of the fender isn't so close to the rear bed post. Its also 5 inches wider and raised up about 1½" I think it look a little more proportion to the cab now.

[kgmunro]

do you have any pics ME?

[mr48chev]

To do it right you need to trim both ends but a lot of guys have done as ME did and just shorten the wheel base and leave the part behind the fenders alone.

But the good part is that you can shorten the wheelbase or the bed for the short wheelbase and then stand back and take a look at it and decide where to go and what to do from that point. Either cut the back end or leave it alone and go with it.

You need a spot weld cutter to cut the spot welds out and then move the posts back the correct amount and weld them back on. Then you will have to drill the new holes to bolt the front panel back on. It is probably easier to take the bed all apart and lay the sides on saw horses to do the job than fight with it all together.

[ME.]

Originally Posted by kgmunro

do you have any pics ME?

Sorry, but I don’t have any good pics of the bed. The truck is not finished yet and is all taken apart.

[kaycee]

I knew it was somewhere on here, better late than never
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=323615

[T Hilde]

These are the tools to get the stake pockets off. Use the scratch pad to get the crap off to locate the spot welds. Mark the spot welds with the sharpie. Use a drill with a small bit to put a guide in for the spot weld cutter.



Left to right, sharpie, pilot, spot weld drilled.



Removed. There are about 8 spot welds per side.



I put short pieces of tape to mark 9 inches, then ran a long piece of tape to get the cut line.



I used an air powered cut off tool to shorten.



Clean up the edges and test fit the stake pocket. Clamp it all down and mark the spot welds with the sharpie so you can clean up those areas for welding. Drill the holes that mount the front box panel while it is clamped in place. After that is done, clean the areas where it will be welded, bolt the stake pocket on, clamp and weld.



Remove clamps and dress the welds for this......

[kaycee]

So then you have to find the shorter steps?I'm a slow learner, but I was thinking of trimming up the rear end (tailgate)then I could leave my steps alone and just trim the rear frame to fit under.To me that is what looks goofy is the long space between rear of fender and tailgate.Sure appreciate the pics of how you did it I will start on mine here in the next coupla weeks or so.

[dicer]

You can buy new short bed sides, probably lots easier than all the cutting and welding etc.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by dicer

You can buy new short bed sides, probably lots easier than all the cutting and welding etc.

At about 650 a side a lot more expensive too.

I know that the thread is a couple of months old but Kaycee if you are going to do it, do it right as trucks that guys took short cuts on usually end up looking a bit more than hokey in the end.

I wish you were closer as I'd trade you a pair of my shortbed running boards for your longbed running boards if they were in equal shape in short order.