Newbie (sorta) with some questions

[procrastinator]

In the distant past I owned a 68 C10 and a 69 Panel. I knew I would regret leaving them behind when I became 40 years old, but I was getting out of the Military and I need to go to College and find a career. Nearly 20 years later, I have built a couple of nice diesel trucks, a really nice show fox body mustang, but I have always kept looking and thinking about the 67-72 Chevrolet/GMC.

I am thinking about selling the mustang and looking for a 67-72 Suburban. I have the family now and we all want to go cruising.

I remember a lot about these trucks, but my questions are:

What areas I should be looking for when I look at them?

What areas are the most prone to rot?

Which doors are best? My panel had barndoors and I hated the hinges.

How is the aftermarket for these trucks now?

I would like to install A/C for the family. Is it best to find an original A/C truck or go completely aftermarket?

How do the suburbans drive/ride compare to today's trucks. Please mind, I drive a one ton dually so I don't need a caddy ride.

I am sorry for so many questions, I am just getting anxious to get on with my dream.

Thanks,

Proscrastinator

[vectorit]

First off, welcome to the best place on the net for Suburbans!

I will throw in my .02 on your questions, and throw in a few others for your information:

Q: What areas I should be looking for when I look at them?
A: The usual places for these trucks to rot, are the rocker panels along the doors. No matter where you get the burb, it will have rust in the rockers. The trick is to find one that hasn't eaten to deep into the support structures, and into the frame to body mounts. For burb specific, I would try to find one with the rear doors/hatches with as little to no rust as possible. These are the hardest to fix, and they are hard to locate as rust free replacements. Make sure the doors are solid, since they are burb specific.

Q: What areas are the most prone to rot?
A: See above.

Q: Which doors are best? My panel had barndoors and I hated the hinges.
A: I am partial to the clam shell style, and I have heard more people say they prefer them over the barn doors than barn doors to clam shells.

Q: How is the aftermarket for these trucks now?
A: I have been restoring my burb for over 15 years, and in the beginning there was little to none reproduction burb specific stuff out there. Hence why I hacked up a lot of PU stuff to convert to Suburban. Today, there are replacement body panels, good choices on interior stuffs (67-68 are still non existent years in the seat and side panel upholstery).

Q: I would like to install A/C for the family. Is it best to find an original A/C truck or go completely aftermarket?
A: Personally, I'd go aftermarket than try to refurb OEM stuff. The aftermarket AC kits and systems are very nice, and have actually thought about installing one into my non-AC burb.

Few personal notes/observations from a life long 1968 K20 Suburban owner...

The budget you have in your mind right now - triple it. Suburbans are big, so there is more time and materials used to get a body into shape. Interiors are gigantic, so the amount of materials and cost to make them look, feel, and sound good are breath taking.

Space. Suburbans are giant, so you need lots of space to park, disassemble, store parts, and be able to move around to work on your stuff.

Ride. The ride quality on my burb is quite nice in my opinion, especially for a 3/4 ton 4x4. There is a lot of iron rolling, so it soaks up the road quite well.

Resources for information on how to do stuff with them was non existent, then I found this website and have not had to search anywhere else for answers on Suburbans since then.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by vectorit

First off, welcome to the best place on the net for Suburbans!

I will throw in my .02 on your questions, and throw in a few others for your information:

Q: What areas I should be looking for when I look at them?
A: The usual places for these trucks to rot, are the rocker panels along the doors. No matter where you get the burb, it will have rust in the rockers. The trick is to find one that hasn't eaten to deep into the support structures, and into the frame to body mounts. For burb specific, I would try to find one with the rear doors/hatches with as little to no rust as possible. These are the hardest to fix, and they are hard to locate as rust free replacements. Make sure the doors are solid, since they are burb specific.

Q: What areas are the most prone to rot?
A: See above.

Q: Which doors are best? My panel had barndoors and I hated the hinges.
A: I am partial to the clam shell style, and I have more people say they prefer them over the barn doors than barn doors to clam shells.

Q: How is the aftermarket for these trucks now?
A: I have been restoring my burb for over 15 years, and in the beginning there was little to none reproduction burb specific stuff out there. Hence why I hacked up a lot of PU stuff to convert to Subruban. Today, there are replacement body panels, good choices on interior stuffs (67-68 are still non existent years in the seat and side panel upholstery).

Q: I would like to install A/C for the family. Is it best to find an original A/C truck or go completely aftermarket?
A: Personally, I'd go aftermarket than try to refurb OEM stuff. The aftermarket AC kits and systems are very nice, and have actually thought about installing one into my non-AC burb.

Few personal notes/observations from a life long 1968 K20 Suburban owner...

The budget you have in your mind right now - triple it. Suburbans are big, so there is more time and materials used to get a body into shape. Interiors are gigantic, so the amount of materials and cost to make them look, feel, and sound good are breath taking.

Space. Suburbans are giant, so you need lots of space to park, disassemble, store parts, and be able to move around to work on your stuff.

Ride. The ride quality on my burb is quite nice in my opinion, especially for a 3/4 ton 4x4. There is a lot of iron rolling, so it soaks up the road quite well.

Resources for information on how to do stuff with them was non existent, then I found this website and have not had to search anywhere else for answers on Suburbans since then.

Good info ...

[robb67]

Great response from vectorit, as usual.

procrastinator, you'll do well here with the skills you're bringing and the great advice and knowledge available. I love my panel but sometimes wish it were a burb for family trips. good luck!

[Average Joe]

x3 on what Vectorit said! You might want to consider a 71-72 model as they come factory with front disk brakes, 5 lug bolt pattern,(= more aftermarket wheel choices) and they also offered rear air as an option. A barn door burb can be converted to a clamshell but finding a good upper hatch can prove challenging. I have seen rust above the front windshield as well. Good luck with your search and welcome!!!!

[londoncalling]

Procrastinator, welcome aboard. I loitered around the site for a long time and picked up enough information to save myself some costly mistakes.

Regarding vectoits comprehensive response I would echo his opinion. Rust free -never is; the rockers and the quarter panels will have rust. Once the paint comes off it will be there. The same holds true for the tailgate. I have the clam shell style and both the upper and the lower pieces have rot. In fact, it seems that in some places only the paint was left.

I would add one piece of advice from my limited experience; if the truck has undercoating, scrape it off the critical support structures before you buy. In my case, the body tub supports had been filled with bondo and covered over with undercoating. And that deep rot would have been a clue to additional rot - which was uncovered later on.

I hope that these before and after photos will prove helpful.

[Bigdav160]

I guess I'm the only one who prefers barn doors

How do the suburbans drive/ride compare to today's trucks.

If in good condition, as well as a newer truck.

[Average Joe]

^ Actually I prefer barn doors to a clamshell as well but to each their own.

[nate_g_2003]

+1 for barn doors!! haha

Vectorit is dead on. Get ready to modify truck pieces to fit a burb. There are subtle differences, but unless you are restoring to stock, it shouldn't be too hard. Get creative, and ask questions, because someone here is bound to know the answer or get you pointed in the right direction.

[dougo]

welcome to the board. As already mentioned the 71-72 years have a few more options, but then again - I'd keep the search open for earlier years too - because if you come across a clean, rust free - you're a head of the game. I searched for months... found a rust free burb, original rockers, etc.

My burb has front disc, front/rear air, power steering/breaks. It drives very similar to a '95 burb I used to have, and it rides better than my brother's '89 suburban 3/4 ton. Steering, breaks - very similar, if not dead on as my bro's 89. One difference I notice - more cabin noise and engine noise - expected, so tolerable.

[gcburdic]

to the boards from NC.....also, thanks for your service to this great country!!!......remember.....drum brakes 67-70, disk brakes 71/72....it's an easy upgrade now, but food for thought

other areas to look at during your inspection are the drip rails, around the windshield, under the second row of seats where there will be a vertical transition to the wood floor...if that's a bubbled up mess, beware....

[BlackTopMotors]

Just wanted to say welcome and a old suburban is a cool family ride.
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[procrastinator]

Well, thanks for all the replys. I have lurked on this site for awhile, but I the more time I spend on here and I am amazed with the knowlege, love for these trucks, and the members willing to help one another that this site is offering.

As for my future truck, I am guessing it will be around a year before my mustang is sold and my search concludes with a "new" truck in my garage. I am pricing suburban's in various conditions now.

I am not sure if I will go two wheel drive or four wheel drive yet. I like both. Since I am getting older and wiser I definately enjoy working in a garage with a wood stove in the middle of winter instead of freezing outside. I am curious to the height of a classic burb. If I get a four wheel drive it will only have a mild lift, will it still fit in a standard seven foot garage door? I doubt I would ever put a roof rack on it.

Thanks again,

Procrastinator

[dougo]

Mine has a total of 4 inch lift (rough guess) and it fits in my garage (even with the cab/roof lights). I have a standard 7 foot door/frame, with a roll up door. I have about a 1/2 inch - as for room for error on height.

[procrastinator]

Originally Posted by dougo

Mine has a total of 4 inch lift (rough guess) and it fits in my garage (even with the cab/roof lights). I have a standard 7 foot door/frame, with a roll up door. I have about a 1/2 inch - as for room for error on height.

Dougo,

Thanks for the info. If that is your current ride in your avatar, then wow. I am really, really liking this site. I love all the good looking pictures here.

Procrastinator

[nate_g_2003]

My 72 has a small lift, a PO had the springs rebuilt and rearched with around 2" of lift or so, and I have standard garage doors. Plenty of room overhead, but be forewarned, Suburbans are long!! It doesn't help me that the same PO put a Warn Winch bumper on the front that sticks out 8-10" further than a stock bumper!

[Longhorn Man]

Surprised no one has said it yet... shop out west or south... actually southwest being best.
Illinois is REAL easy going with there salt and brine in the winter, which is why you don't see these things there. Out west, they still see them from time to time in traffic. If you are carefull, (and have the funds) you can actually find 99% rustfree ones out there. Spend as much as you can on a nice body and nice COMPLETE interior. Engine/tranny/suspention work is all cheap and generic compaired to body/interior on an oddball vehicle. You will spend a lot of time and money looking for something as stupid as a seat hold down bracket, or a third door interior panel, or the seat arm in the right color. It gets stupid fast. Under the hood... any 'ole small block/big block will fit in there. Carb'd, injected, roller cam, LS series... they all bolt in there with minimal fuss.