Torsion bar question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dark Knight · 07-12-2011, 09:29 PM

Hey guys. I just bought an '89 K1500 from my buddy. He thought that he would put a lift on it by putting 2" blocks in the rear and tightening up the torsion bar adjusting bolts for the front. Well, it worked, but rode like crap. Rough as all get out. I pulled the "lift" off of it, but I would like to know exactly where the adjusting bolts are supposed to be. Could somebody count the number of threads between the head and adjuster for me? Or maybe measure it? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

benoit454 · 07-12-2011, 10:41 PM

every truck is different, lower it down a couple threads at a time til you get it where you want it, then have it aligned.

Dark Knight · 07-12-2011, 11:07 PM

I would think that the factory would have some type of specification for it though. Like all the 1500's "X" amount of turns and all 2500's "X" amount of turns. It would be great if someone had an identical truck to mine and could give me some kind of baseline to go off of. I'm pretty happy with it now, but I'm one of those people who likes to keep everything stock. Well.....with the 89 anyway. The 67 is a different story.

**Boog** · 07-12-2011, 11:12 PM

If you look at the lower control arm and bumpstop there should be about 1 inch or so clearance between the two with the truck sitting on the floor for a stock suspension. This is about the same on my 97 K Burb and 2000 GMC Z71. This should give you something to aim at. When adjusting the torsion bar bolts I raise one side of truck to let the wheel fully drop down. It makes turning the adjuster bolt easier. Lower it and have a look. I made 3 turns on my Burb bolts and it raised the front almost 2 inches.

Dark Knight · 07-12-2011, 11:26 PM

Thanks Boog! That's what I wanted to know.

benoit454 · 07-13-2011, 02:49 PM

IMO just back them out haflway or 1/2 of threads showing and see where it is then fine tune it. Even if you had gm specs or another identical vehicle what works for them or back then may not work the exact same for you. Over time they sag and every truck is different. Make sure to drive it some to settle them, and once done get an alignment done.

07-12-2011, 09:29 PM	#1
Dark Knight Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Pleak, Texas Posts: 420	Torsion bar question Hey guys. I just bought an '89 K1500 from my buddy. He thought that he would put a lift on it by putting 2" blocks in the rear and tightening up the torsion bar adjusting bolts for the front. Well, it worked, but rode like crap. Rough as all get out. I pulled the "lift" off of it, but I would like to know exactly where the adjusting bolts are supposed to be. Could somebody count the number of threads between the head and adjuster for me? Or maybe measure it? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks. __________________ -1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast!

07-12-2011, 10:41 PM	#2
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: Torsion bar question every truck is different, lower it down a couple threads at a time til you get it where you want it, then have it aligned. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

07-12-2011, 11:07 PM	#3
Dark Knight Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Pleak, Texas Posts: 420	Re: Torsion bar question I would think that the factory would have some type of specification for it though. Like all the 1500's "X" amount of turns and all 2500's "X" amount of turns. It would be great if someone had an identical truck to mine and could give me some kind of baseline to go off of. I'm pretty happy with it now, but I'm one of those people who likes to keep everything stock. Well.....with the 89 anyway. The 67 is a different story. __________________ -1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast!

07-12-2011, 11:12 PM	#4
Boog laying low Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Searcy, Ark. USA Posts: 14,116	Re: Torsion bar question If you look at the lower control arm and bumpstop there should be about 1 inch or so clearance between the two with the truck sitting on the floor for a stock suspension. This is about the same on my 97 K Burb and 2000 GMC Z71. This should give you something to aim at. When adjusting the torsion bar bolts I raise one side of truck to let the wheel fully drop down. It makes turning the adjuster bolt easier. Lower it and have a look. I made 3 turns on my Burb bolts and it raised the front almost 2 inches. __________________ Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver 'primer is finer' Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross

07-12-2011, 11:26 PM	#5
Dark Knight Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Pleak, Texas Posts: 420	Re: Torsion bar question Thanks Boog! That's what I wanted to know. __________________ -1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast!

07-13-2011, 02:49 PM	#6
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: Torsion bar question IMO just back them out haflway or 1/2 of threads showing and see where it is then fine tune it. Even if you had gm specs or another identical vehicle what works for them or back then may not work the exact same for you. Over time they sag and every truck is different. Make sure to drive it some to settle them, and once done get an alignment done. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454



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