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Old 08-04-2003, 06:03 PM   #1
69mychevy
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i'm redoin my bed and i'm gonna need some tips..

hey guys i need to redo the wood in my bed, the wood is still good i'm pretty sure, but all the coating is gone, what do i use to redo it, and do you hav any tips? how many coats? stuff like that....
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Old 08-04-2003, 06:26 PM   #2
69mychevy
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bump, come on a little help please?
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Old 08-04-2003, 07:35 PM   #3
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can't help you on the bed wood, but please post a full size picture of you avatar!!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol tony
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Old 08-04-2003, 10:01 PM   #4
69mychevy
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i don't know if i can post a full picture of my avatar without gettin in trouble, she's wearin her birthday suit, can i do that? still lookin for help on the bed please people!
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Old 08-05-2003, 02:45 AM   #5
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So what do you want to do to that bed or in the bed? Are you gonna take it apart? Got one of those small sanders? I can sand mine while they are in the truck.. I tape the rails up good and go to town. I use a urethane of some sort and i put a lot on. Smoothness is not imprtant to me. Crap slides around back there too much the way it is. You dont even know her do ya?
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Old 08-05-2003, 08:16 AM   #6
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When we do bedwood we sand it with 120 grit paper then soak it in alcohol to remove the moisture then we put a 50% diluted acetone and WEST SYSTEMS marine epoxy mixture on first (for some tooth into the wood) next is another coat at 25% with acetone, then the build coats begin sanding with 400 between coats. Using this method and WEST SYSTEMS will get you at least 10 years if you take care of it without having to recoat. It's expensive but it only cost a few dollars more to go first class.
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Old 08-05-2003, 05:57 PM   #7
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Yes, I am helping Ed do this to my wood bed. I will post pics when we are done and as we are doing it. I'll try to get Ed in a couple of shots.
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Old 08-05-2003, 06:55 PM   #8
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Ed have you had good results with thinning the west epoxy?

They do not recommend thinning the resin with solvents, but warming the resin and hardner before mixing will give you pretty good penitration in to the wood I've done it this way with about 3 coats of west then you have to put on 4 or 5 coats of spar varnish over the west to protect it from UV rays the varnish holds good as long as all the wood is sealed from moisture, which is what the west does. my 2 cents
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Old 08-05-2003, 08:28 PM   #9
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Yes the acetone helps it penetrate the wood easier and evaporates in seconds, i have never tried heating it, our paintbooth stays around 120 degrees without the exhaust fan on this time of year. What temp do you heat it to and whats the working time at that temp?
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Old 08-05-2003, 08:54 PM   #10
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Ed I copied and pasted this from the west web site here is what they say (heat no more than 120 degrees)

There is a better solution to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy with a heat gun or heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and penetrate more deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy

Hope this helped
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Old 08-05-2003, 10:55 PM   #11
theo goebel
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redoin beds

great ideas all, will the sander tear up the strips if they are of the stainless type?
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Old 08-06-2003, 09:38 AM   #12
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Thanks Kman I will look into this, I think it pertains to petrolium based additives. I"ll do some research today.
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Old 08-06-2003, 06:50 PM   #13
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ok i've changed directions completely, only because i trust PPG products and they give me a 10 year warranty if we use their products exclusively, doing Seacrows bed with PPG DUC2021 clear kit and our cross splined oak bed kit. Check back in 10 years to see how it holds up to the Florida weather
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