Removing Every Other Leaf Spring

[Dan in Pasadena]

Those that have done this in the past; talk to me about it. I found this article online:

http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/TF_lowering.htm

Yes, yes, yes, I KNOW that the accepted wisdom is to:

1. Graft a GM subframe onto my cutoff stock frame
2. Install an aftermarket Mustang II front end
3. Install either a dropped axle or a set of lowered or monoleaf springs.

I'm clear on all those. I've found lowered leaf spring sets at $389 a pair, so about $1000 for front & rear. I've also found dropped axles for about $400+ but they involve modifying the pitman arm, etc. Not to mention kingpin replacement (yes, necessary w/lowered leafs too). I'm trying to save money in the short run - a couple years (no, its not a daily driver) as I work out all the other mechanical issues and improvements.

Removing every other leaf used to be a common approach. I'm thinking of doing this, cleaning/painting, and adding Teflon between the leafs to improve the ride and new shocks (recommendation?)

Tell me your experiences, how difficult it is to do on the rusty old hardware I'll be facing, how long did you have it? Would you do it again?

[mr48chev]

I did it on my 48 for a quick and nasty lowering job and the truck has ended up with about 1 inch of clearance between the cut off bump stops and the axle. Looks good rides and drives terrible. But it didn't cost anything except time.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

...ended up with about 1 inch of clearance between the cut off bump stops and the axle. Looks good rides and drives terrible...

Yeah, that's one of the things I'm afraid of, minimal space between axle and bump stop/bone jarring over railroad tracks, etc.

Boarder "57 3100" (Leonard) told me he flipped his rear axle on top of his spring pack and used a thick rubber pad on his frame rail and it made quite a bit of difference. Someone else said they installed gas shocks and it made a huge difference. I can't object to that expense as it has 55 year old shocks on it anyway that are doing nothing really.

I'd like to hear more experiences. I'd consider dropped multi spring packs before a dropped axle I think just to avoid the seering mods if possible.

[FFredo]

I plan to do the spring removal modification to my 59 also. However I think I'm only going to remove 2 springs up front and do a axle flip on the rear. I also plan to reshock on all four corners at the same time. Right now I am in the process of collecting all of the parts I need to do a rack and pinion conversion too. Once all of the parts are on hand I will do everything at once so I can minimize the time my truck is off the road.
After a lot of reading and research I still have no idea how well it will work. Only one way to find out I guess.
Someday I plan to do a 4 link with coil overs, I just need to hit a few more swap meets and junk yards for parts. Sometimes I think I should just buck up and spend the money for new proven parts instead of using old parts modified to fit. Then I think where's the fun in that?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Fredo,
I've got my truck into an auto electric shop a buddy of mine has used and raved about. My running lights front & back don't work, my stop lights either though the PO told me the stoplight switch was bad, so I gave the shop a new one. My dome lights and dash lights don't work so I decided to let him take care of ALL that crap just so I can drive it safely. I'm also having him add a cigarette lighter so I can charge my phone - I bet GM never thought a telephone would be used in their trucks in 1955!

Still need to get you pictures of my door holes. I apologize for not following up, but I will!

Oh, and P.S. He said he thought he could make the horn button work! Yippee! I have a button down low on the column right now and that is dangerous if I suddenly need to blow the horn!

[FFredo]

No problem Dan, you're not holding me up at all. I'm still plugging along on the truck. I did hit a wall yesterday when I found out that the "SWEET CAB" I bought has a crooked door jamb on the pass side. Kinda took the wind out of my sails for a bit. I'll be ok as soon as I buy a bigger hammer.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by FFredo

... I'll be ok as soon as I buy a bigger hammer.

Ain't THAT the truth for all of us!

Is it crooked from having been hit or what? Seems like it would have to be a subtle problem if it's hard to see. Did you find it by putting a door into the door frame? Is this literally a bang-on-it fix, or will you have to cut and weld? Too bad, but the rest of the cab is still better than the one you have, right? Chalk it up to "two steps forward, half a step back".

[craig32]

My truck had a 4X4 axle under it when I got it, but I immediately replaced it with a stock front axle. It seems the guy that had the stock axle lowered it by taking the blocks out from between the springs and axle, except they put them on TOP of the springs and used the same U-bolts. Just a slight bump and they were hitting! I got shorter U-bolts and took them out completely.
Long story short, are there blocks you can remove?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Craig,
Nope, no blocks.

[meter swinger]

ive seen quite a few with every other leaf out in the front and shackles in the back. Seems to sit pretty good. Mine had both axles on top of the leaf packs when i got it. That was a scary ride
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Meter Swinger. Yeah, most seem to say they sit nice but ride is jarring. I've seen some where the leafs start to get an UPWARD bow to them. THAT can't be good!