Post your best budget mods! ($50 or less)

[CowboyProtectionUnit]

Side View... thought I had it uploaded at the same time

[elf w/capital T]

very interesting bench ya got! keep everyone posted cause i am sure im not the only one , what are your plans? keep the same fabric?

[CowboyProtectionUnit]

Plans for it are to Match the Color of the Truck... Blue Or...... Grey Leather Possibly Something that Cleans Up easy, and doesn't hold Dog hair.... My Dog Sheds Horridly... I've seen these trucks around off and on its the old school equivalent to today's Western Haulers and Such.....

[kikkegek]

very cool stuf!

Subscribing!

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by TobyArnot

I may have posted this inside another post, but here's my less than $15 throttle rod. (2) 1/4-28 Female Rods Ends (3.99/surplus), 12" of 1/4-28 all-thread ($3.49/Lowe's), Couple of jamnuts from the junk bin and a length of 1/4" rubber hose. Couple of quick bends for offset, cut to length, silicone the hose and slid it on. Add a few pieces of (new!!!) hardware, and bingo. PO had a piece of crap. Finally got rid of that.

Very slick! Great job!

[umwtnt]

Wonderful Thread. Mind would be a box of Mr. Clean scrub sponges. Not sure if thats the right name. I have cleaned a lot of chrome with these to get off brake dust, corrosion and whatever. With a little bit of chrome polish or cleaner they work beautiful. I swiped mine from the wife's kitchen so I don't know the price.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

So do you still have a regular engine driven fan? Is the 18" fan mounted in front of the condenser like a pusher? Or does it replace your clutch fan and sits behind the radiator as a puller?

I kept the clutch fan also for the AC. The electric is up front between the grille and condensor. It has proved to be a nice add on. The past month it's been in the upper 90's here and the AC is running in the low 40 even high 30 sometimes.
It's going to get a 3 hr or so trip tomorrow so I will see how it does out on the interstate running 70-80 MPH!

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by umwtnt

Wonderful Thread. Mind would be a box of Mr. Clean scrub sponges. Not sure if thats the right name. I have cleaned a lot of chrome with these to get off brake dust, corrosion and whatever. With a little bit of chrome polish or cleaner they work beautiful. I swiped mine from the wife's kitchen so I don't know the price.

be VERY careful with these I use them to get the wax out of plastic fender extentions which it did great at...BUT... they also gave the paint a ruff buffing....

[umwtnt]

I just saw the commercial to Mr Clean Erasers. Not scrub sponges like i said earlier. Wonderful product for the Truck or anything else your detailing.

[Andy4639]

Well I have been replacing all the gauges in the 71 with SpeedHut and I did away with the speed-O cable to the transmission. So I needed something to cover the hook up on the side of the tail shaft.

Bought a $4.00 box at O-Rileys auto store of rubber cap plugs. The biggest one fit like a glove over the end. No dirt getting inside now!
The threads will hold it on to!

[elf w/capital T]

good stuff, to the top :-X

[samuellg1977]

I made a throttle linkage from a stick of 1/4" Aluminum rod. Threaded both ends, bent to the right angles, three locknuts for back stops and done. Whole thing cost about $2.69 - looks and works much more gooder than the old cable the PO had on it.

[BOZO]

I guess you could call this a repair/modification. I kept having problems years ago with the hollow rubber housing in the carrier bearing deteriorating and falling apart, resulting in the drive shaft flopping around. So the last time I replaced it, I pumped the hollow area full of silicone sealer and there has been no problems since. Caulking gun and tube of silicone sealer definitely come in under $50.
Also, vacuum port plugs slipped over your zerk fittings will keep them well protected, offering protection from rocks and rust.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by BOZO

I guess you could call this a repair/modification. I kept having problems years ago with the hollow rubber housing in the carrier bearing deteriorating and falling apart, resulting in the drive shaft flopping around. So the last time I replaced it, I pumped the hollow area full of silicone sealer and there has been no problems since. Caulking gun and tube of silicone sealer definitely come in under $50.
Also, vacuum port plugs slipped over your zerk fittings will keep them well protected, offering protection from rocks and rust.

Have you got pictures of this mod. This sounds interesting and way cheaper than the $95.00 for the carrier bearing replacement.

[BOZO]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Have you got pictures of this mod. This sounds interesting and way cheaper than the $95.00 for the carrier bearing replacement.

This modification does not concern the bearing so much as it does the hollow rubber housing surrounding it. On my carrier bearing housing, the outer metal housing has 3)...1/2 inch square openings at 2:00 / 6:00 / and 10:00 o'clock. I pumped silicone sealer into these openings until the hollow space inside the rubber boot could hold no more. If the metal housing does not have any holes around the outside, you can drill a couple of 3/8" holes in it and fill from these holes. It may take a day or two for the sealant to harden properly. In the past, I have not had as many problems with the bearing itself as I have with the rubber boot.

[Andy4639]

Yea me to. The bearings always seem fine it's the rubber boot that tears and then the bearing starts hitting the metal housing. I have a spare shaft I keep a new carrier on so when the other one messes up I just replace it. It's been awhile since the last replacement though this is a good idea. I may do this and see how it works. Thanks

I was thinking about the CCP bearing.

[BOZO]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Yea me to. The bearings always seem fine it's the rubber boot that tears and then the bearing starts hitting the metal housing. I have a spare shaft I keep a new carrier on so when the other one messes up I just replace it. It's been awhile since the last replacement though this is a good idea. I may do this and see how it works. Thanks

I was thinking about the CCP bearing.

That CCP bearing looks expensive but it definitely looks like it would solve the problems inherent with the hollow rubber boots, and that makes it worth it.

[Andy4639]

They are around $95.00. Yea it would be worth it I guess. I just like doing things like this myself. I may order it anyway though.

[dmack91]

Not mine, but I stole it from LocDoc on another post.

1986-1996 Dodge Dakota doors seals - they are the push-on style and fit great. Just had to cut about 4" off one end and I had new seals that I didn't have to mess with gluing on. Only problem is that now I have to slam the doors closed.

Grand total of $6 from the U-Pull-It.

Thanks Leon!

[R.L.]

Originally Posted by 71meangreenc10

Less than $25, you can get wiper delay that is simple to install and works well. I have used them in two trucks.....Love it.....

All you need is wire crimpers (or vise grips for those who prefer) and a drill to mount it.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/windshield-...wx?filterid=j1

Smitty

Thank you for this, I'll use this.

[prairewolf]

not a mod but truck related...I pulled our 67 out of garage today, ... power steering fluid leak spot on concrete.... for floor dry I used Dirt ... it works good.sweeps up good,price is good.... it is readily available and disposing of it is easy. .... I had some Very dry dirt in a bucket from old yardwork project so it was perfect...

[Mayo]

Originally Posted by dmack91

Not mine, but I stole it from LocDoc on another post.

1986-1996 Dodge Dakota doors seals - they are the push-on style and fit great. Just had to cut about 4" off one end and I had new seals that I didn't have to mess with gluing on. Only problem is that now I have to slam the doors closed.

Grand total of $6 from the U-Pull-It.

Thanks Leon!

All you have to do is press them on, no other modifications other than trimming them?
Posted via Mobile Device

[dmack91]

Originally Posted by Mayo

All you have to do is press them on, no other modifications other than trimming them?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yup - that's it. It took longer to remove my glued on ones than to put these on. As Leon recommended, you will need a phillips screwdriver and small prybar to get the trim off the Dakota to remove the seals, but otherwise, they are a quick press-on fit. There is a small (3-4") inner piece that goes inside the seal to keep the ends together, so be sure to keep it (will work fine without it, but makes it fit better).

[8door]

Great thread. Learning a lot.

I'm subscribing to this, cuz
not to bright to think of these bright ideas.

[Mayo]

Originally Posted by dmack91

Yup - that's it. It took longer to remove my glued on ones than to put these on. As Leon recommended, you will need a phillips screwdriver and small prybar to get the trim off the Dakota to remove the seals, but otherwise, they are a quick press-on fit. There is a small (3-4") inner piece that goes inside the seal to keep the ends together, so be sure to keep it (will work fine without it, but makes it fit better).

thats good to know. I really need new seals in my truck and wasn't looking forward to glueing some in