i need help quick im about to order and noticed something wierd about these spindles.

[camshaftgsxr]

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/lo...qt-s/6212.aspx

they say 2" drop spindles but drop amount is listed as 2.5" can someone please clarify

[rwhit57]

I don't see the 2-1/2" deal you're talking about. If the spindle is relocated 2" from stock then the drop will be 2".

[camshaftgsxr]

Specifications:

* Anticipated Ship Out Time: 2-3 business days
* Drop Amount: 2.5 in.
* Product Fit: Direct fit
* Warranty: Lifetime McGaughys limited warranty
* Fit Note:
o RWD, 1/2 Ton, With 2.5 in. Front Drop


this is right underneath the written description, however mcgaughys doesnt offer a 2 inch spindle from their website so im just going to order and deal with it if its .5" short

thanks for the quick response!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by camshaftgsxr

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/lo...qt-s/6212.aspx

they say 2" drop spindles but drop amount is listed as 2.5" can someone please clarify

The drop amount depends on what p/n you order. When I clicked the link, it showed all options. Which p/n are you looking at?

[camshaftgsxr]

the same 2.5 thats on mcgaughys site. 33154 1 inch rotors

[SCOTI]

That's a generic advertisement listing that's not specific.

Some trucks get 2" spindles (s10's or newer trucks). Some get 2.5 spindles (most 63-87's), & there are the Bell Techs @ 3" (73-87's). They just list them & the drop is dependant on the p/n.

[camshaftgsxr]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

That's a generic advertisement listing that's not specific.

Some trucks get 2" spindles (s10's or newer trucks). Some get 2.5 spindles (most 63-87's), & there are the Bell Techs @ 3" (73-87's). They just list them & the drop is dependant on the p/n.

yeah i figured, i ordered from the p/n from the site so all should be good, i also ordered 2 inch shackles.. the most money ive spent on a toy in a long time it hurts a lil

[camshaftgsxr]

scoti, you mentioned a sway bar modification or change in another post, could you elaborate on what i should do to keep my sways further from the ground?

[rwhit57]

Originally Posted by camshaftgsxr

yeah i figured, i ordered from the p/n from the site so all should be good, i also ordered 2 inch shackles.. the most money ive spent on a toy in a long time it hurts a lil

I always try to look at it as an investment!

[camshaftgsxr]

Originally Posted by rwhit57

I always try to look at it as an investment!

after paint and ill have a truck worth 1/3 of my investment


ugh i have 7k+ in it now...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by camshaftgsxr

scoti, you mentioned a sway bar modification or change in another post, could you elaborate on what i should do to keep my sways further from the ground?

At 5" or greater front drops, the sway bar gets close to the ground on compression when driving or parking-curbs when parking. I remove the factory sway-bar extension mounts completely & bolt the sway-bar bushings directly to the frame. You gain about 3" more clearance.

To do the install, I remove the sway-bar completely.
Knock off the factory sway-bar extension brackets (grind/drill the rivets out).
Bolt the sway-bar back in place @ the lower a-arms.
Using a jack, raise the center of the sway-bar until the frame bushings contact the frame rail.
Make reference marks to drill holes for the bushing brackets (center the brackets on the rail & use a center-punch or sharpie to mark the spots for drilling).
Drill the bushing bracket holes.
Bolt the bar up directly to the frame.

[camshaftgsxr]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

At 5" or greater front drops, the sway bar gets close to the ground on compression when driving or parking-curbs when parking. I remove the factory sway-bar extension mounts completely & bolt the sway-bar bushings directly to the frame. You gain about 3" more clearance.

To do the install, I remove the sway-bar completely.
Knock off the factory sway-bar extension brackets (grind/drill the rivets out).
Bolt the sway-bar back in place @ the lower a-arms.
Using a jack, raise the center of the sway-bar until the frame bushings contact the frame rail.
Make reference marks to drill holes for the bushing brackets (center the brackets on the rail & use a center-punch or sharpie to mark the spots for drilling).
Drill the bushing bracket holes.
Bolt the bar up directly to the frame.

this doesnt preload the sway bar in a negative way does it?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by camshaftgsxr

this doesnt preload the sway bar in a negative way does it?

Not if the spring height has been dropped. The sway bar bracket geometry is designed for stock height & thus where it's most likely optimum.

I wouldn't go through the effort for 2" or less spring drop. Over 4" of drop (spindles & springs combined) & it puts things closer to optimum.

[camshaftgsxr]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Not if the spring height has been dropped. The sway bar bracket geometry is designed for stock height & thus where it's most likely optimum.

I wouldn't go through the effort for 2" or less spring drop. Over 4" of drop (spindles & springs combined) & it puts things closer to optimum.

sweet thanks, i'll reference this when my spindles come in

[rwhit57]

Sotti, I want to put a rear sway bar on my truck. I can't find a good source. Are there other years or alternatives? How much do they help? Sorry Camshaft not trying to hijack your thread.

[camshaftgsxr]

Originally Posted by rwhit57

Camshaft not trying to hijack your thread.

dude go for it the 88-98 sport trucks had them.. the fronts will work im not sure about the rears

[rwhit57]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Not if the spring height has been dropped. The sway bar bracket geometry is designed for stock height & thus where it's most likely optimum.

I wouldn't go through the effort for 2" or less spring drop. Over 4" of drop (spindles & springs combined) & it puts things closer to optimum.

I probably need to do this on mine. That's one I never thought of. Is the improvement noticeable?

[J Knight]

I just bought two set of those, same part # for 1in rotors. they are in fact 2.5in drop.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rwhit57

I probably need to do this on mine. That's one I never thought of. Is the improvement noticeable?

Improvement of functionality might be a stretch for the description....

I did this the first time on an older pre-73 truck because it didn't have any bracket extensions (it didn't have a sway bar). I thought if the spring drop is around 2-3" & the bracket extension spaces the sway-bar bushings 3" off the frame, not using the spacers should put things back where they were 'intended'. If it didn't work, I wasn't out anything.

Since all of my trucks have had @ least 2.5" spindles & 1-coil cut, this mod has worked just fine.

I just did it again on my dually. It should have about 5" front drop w/the lower BJ raised in relation to the frame (no cut springs @ this time). I still don't have the drivetrain installed so it's difficult to know the total drop amount but I went ahead & knocked the extension brackets off. Once the truck is back on the ground, I'll look to see where the bar sits & make the final decision. More than likely, it will be directly bolted to the frame.

[rwhit57]

I thought if the spring drop is around 2-3" & the bracket extension spaces the sway-bar bushings 3" off the frame, not using the spacers should put things back where they were 'intended'. If it didn't work, I wasn't out anything.

Makes perfect sense to me. I haven't had a clearance issue, but I am careful. I really like the lowered look and the way my truck handles, but I know it can improve. The only thing I don't like is how far I have to bend over to put gas in it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rwhit57

Makes perfect sense to me. I haven't had a clearance issue, but I am careful. I really like the lowered look and the way my truck handles, but I know it can improve. The only thing I don't like is how far I have to bend over to put gas in it. :lol:

I know that feeling all too well. With the 74, I used to put gas in while kneeling on the ground. Jonboy does it now ....

The exclusion of the extension brackets was easiest @ the time & the math indicated they weren't needed. To me, the big gain for 'performance' was installing the big HD 1.25" bar & using poly bushings vs. OE rubber.

[camshaftgsxr]

Why do you guys hold the nozzle? I just let it hang and fill on it's own till I hear it gurgle some then I grab it
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by camshaftgsxr

Why do you guys hold the nozzle? I just let it hang and fill on it's own till I hear it gurgle some then I grab it

Pre unleaded trucks won't hold the 'newer' un-leaded gas pump nozzles. Even worse, the stupid 'fume retention' apparatus on many pump nozzles won't allow the gas to pump out w/o constantly shutting the pump off because there's nothing to deflect the very slight gas splash-back issues.

To fill the original 'bed-side fill' tank in the 74 (w/new inlet & vent hoses) required rotating the nozzle 180° from 'normal' (handle @ the 12:00 position vs 6:00 to get a better shot for less splashing). Holding the gas nozzle basically upside down @ the proper angle required kneeling (the truck has a 6/8 drop).

[rwhit57]

Originally Posted by camshaftgsxr

Why do you guys hold the nozzle? I just let it hang and fill on it's own till I hear it gurgle some then I grab it
Posted via Mobile Device

You can just let yours hang if you want to, but I prefer to hold on to mine.