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08-30-2011, 06:44 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: tulsa,ok.
Posts: 1,803
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exhaust header bolt problem
ok guys, i have a 99 silverado with a 5.3l and i have some how broke two exhaust header bolts both on the driver side by the fire wall! my problem is i dont have the money to have it fixed! but i think i can with the help of a few friends, the two bolts that broke the steering column is in the way! so my question to you guys would be can i unbolt everything use a cherry picker and move the engine forward a few inches to be able to drill and tap the bolts!! i have bought a left handed drill bit in hopes to be able to get the bolt out!! anyways any help would be great ! the truck's not a dd but used to haul and tow things and has been down for a few weeks now! once again thanks for and help and input you may give!!
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08-30-2011, 08:19 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Upper Sandusky Ohio
Posts: 72
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Re: exhaust header bolt problem
I know I just did the rear drivers side bolt on my gmc. I had a harder time getting the manifold off the exhaust pipe than anything. To get the broken bolt out all I did was weld a nut on the bolt and back it right out with a wrench. So if you have one, or a friend with a wire welder its a piece of cake. By the way, its the same way as we do it with the exhaust manifolds on the tractors at work.
__________________
88 Crewcab Dually 5.9 Cummins, 5306 Eaton 6-speed, converted 4x4 w/52's up front, 90 front clip(parting out) 1986 ElCamino (needs motor) 1970 C30(future service truck for my ag-equipment repair business) 1970 CST10(parting out and partial donor for the '70 C30) 2000 GMC 1500 ext cab sb, z71, 5.3 loaded auto |
08-30-2011, 10:07 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: tulsa,ok.
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Re: exhaust header bolt problem
ok, i know the head is aluminum! so if i weld a nut in there, theres not enough heat to warp the head is it?? i wont thing so, but i'm a beginner and have to ask!! better safe then sorry, i have a wire welder and i can do this this weekend if its not raining!! thanks for your input and any more is welcome! like i said i wont be doing this tell this weekend and it seem like it should work out great, or i hope it does,lol!!
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08-31-2011, 01:46 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 284
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Re: exhaust header bolt problem
take the large bolt out of the steering column there next to the exhaust and separate the two shafts. You will then be able to move the upper shaft out of the way. I had to do that to install my headers and it helped ALOT!
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08-31-2011, 08:20 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Upper Sandusky Ohio
Posts: 72
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Re: exhaust header bolt problem
Yeah it will help to get that steering shaft out of the way. No, you wont get anywhere near warm enough to warp that aluminum head, unless mabey you try to lay a bead of weld right on the head, lol. Mine was easier to get to because I was changing the fender at the same time, and that only took like 15 minutes to take off to make it easier too.
__________________
88 Crewcab Dually 5.9 Cummins, 5306 Eaton 6-speed, converted 4x4 w/52's up front, 90 front clip(parting out) 1986 ElCamino (needs motor) 1970 C30(future service truck for my ag-equipment repair business) 1970 CST10(parting out and partial donor for the '70 C30) 2000 GMC 1500 ext cab sb, z71, 5.3 loaded auto |
08-31-2011, 09:12 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: tulsa,ok.
Posts: 1,803
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Re: exhaust header bolt problem
so what size nut did you use?? i have a few bags full of nuts & bolts diff. sizes from my '64 project!! i dont plan on running a bead on on the head! i think the hardest one is gonna be the very back bolt thats right up next to the firewall! i was planning on taking the steering shaft out anyways, i'm 6' 3" and i can reach everything so i dont think i will take the fender off, but thanks for the advise,lol! any more advise or input would be great. and thanks for the input so far!!
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08-31-2011, 09:16 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Upper Sandusky Ohio
Posts: 72
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Re: exhaust header bolt problem
I just used a 3/8 nut so it would slide right over the bolt that was sticking out and could weld on the bolt and nut easily since it was the back bolt too that was broke. The biggest advice I have though is just that if things start going bad and you get frustrated, walk away and relax, because the last thing you want is that rear bolt to get broke off just below the surface of the head, because there is no way to drill and tap it there.
__________________
88 Crewcab Dually 5.9 Cummins, 5306 Eaton 6-speed, converted 4x4 w/52's up front, 90 front clip(parting out) 1986 ElCamino (needs motor) 1970 C30(future service truck for my ag-equipment repair business) 1970 CST10(parting out and partial donor for the '70 C30) 2000 GMC 1500 ext cab sb, z71, 5.3 loaded auto |
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