compressor help

[heeroyue2002]

i purchased and older compressor. works great. i still need to change some fittings and i need to replace the guages. the original was a 20 psi and it was completely broken.

heres my plans for it :
so far im going to change the oil, add some air filters and the gauges plus a air regulator. i also took off the old wood it had as a stand and i want to add some wheels, maybe the pneumatic/air ones so i can roll it around my dirt yard. i need an air hose. its currently at 1/4 out i believe. should i make it a bigger size? i also want to add a turn valve for the drain valve at the bottom.

i would like some help with the size etc but i cant seem to find any info about it online. its made by the american brake shoe comp
B1411 serial 407712
heres some pixs.

[sleepertruck72]

Looks like a 30 gallon tank, I would replace that duct taped electrical cord before I touched anything else. As for the air hose, I would keep it the same.

[heeroyue2002]

ttt

[heeroyue2002]

anyone else? the pulley on the motors looks like it has room for 2 belts? also does it cost alot to fix leaks? it has a leak on the little black box by the gauge. the regulator? its just a slow one but id like it leak free.

[trz1000]

Leaks can be close to free to fix or expensive depending on what and why it's leaking. The black box is the pressure switch, tells the compressor when to start and stop. If the leak is from a fitting, pull it apart. If it's a compression fitting replace it. If a taper fitting, try resealing with tape AND dope. Be sure to clean off any old sealers on both the male and female end. I almost always use tape and dope, both properly and sparingly and never have any leaks and I do a lot of pipefitting for a guy who isn't in the trade. If that doesn't work, replace the fittings. If a hard line is leaking, replace it. If the switch body is leaking, well I'd need to see a pic to see if it's rebuildable or a throw away.

If the blue hose in the pics is the air hose you're referring to, it looks like it's 3/8" and that will be fine for most anything you'll do as long as you're not trying to run more than 50 feet or so.

Motor pulley isn't shown in the pics but it is certainly possible that the motor has a dual groove pulley. If there are two grooves, just pick one then align that groove with the groove on the pump pulley so the belt runs true.

As stated before, if you haven't change out that electrical cord before doing anything else.

I'd also build a belt guard. If you get a hose or hand caught in the pulleys while the compressor is running, you'll know why belt guards are so important.

Doesn't look like there is a regulator. (maybe part of the pressure switch?) If not, get one. Most, but not all air tools run on 90psi.

[heeroyue2002]

i got a brand new cord i was going to put on a floor buffer but the engine took a ****. its way long so i'll have to chop it, how long should i leave it guys?

heres a picture of the pulley. i think i will make a cage for the belt. how do i change the belt anyways and where do i get another one?

[PanelDeland]

I would leave 6-10 ft on the cord.Make sure the wire is at least as large in diameter as the one you're replacing.(use a larger diameter wire(the copper itself) on any extension cord if you need one).The belt pic you posted looks like the belt is out of alignment,adjust the motor and pump so the belt and grooves on them line up even all the way(your belt will last longer and require less tension to run),which means less pressure on the bearings of both(a good thing).Either the motor or pump should have slotted mounting holes.It will slide to tighten the belt.Make sure the belt is the proper width for the pulleys.The length will be determined by the distance around both pulleys.Use a string or small rope and mark the length with the slide mount in it's middle position,and get a belt that length.
Don't weld on the tank,use bolts to the mounting plate to mount your guard for the belt/pulleys.Make the guard large enough to adjust all the way on the adjustment so as the belt stretches the guard doesn't prevent you from full adjustment.Also mount your wheels on the feet/stands on the bottom of the tank.
Like trz said the pressure switch may be rebuildable but they shouldn't be too expensive.Wheels to roll in the dirt can be bought at Harbor freight for about$5.00 each(that's a 10 in tire like for a garden wagon)Should roll well on any but the roughest ground.You may need to make wheel chocks to keep it in one place.Make one end steerable to be able to manuever it easir.
One to two wraps of teflon tape and a thin coat of pipe dope will seal any leak from properly fitted parts.Again clean everything off of fittings.
One last thing,If you haven't already changed the oil,do so.Who knows when it was last taken care of.

[heeroyue2002]

i bought new wood for the bottom frame and just need to add the wheels.
the cord is thicker then the one u see there, and since its meant for a floor buffer its long.

i'll check the pressure switch soon.

wont have to worry about me welding, i dont know how lol. i did see the alignment notches you wrote about when i was cleaning the area.

[heeroyue2002]

ok. since i last posted the compressor stopped working.no clue what happend but i still want to fix it.

i also picked up another one to use in the mean time lol. $20 at the turlock swap.

it has a broken regulator? the dial thing is broken and air only comes out of one side.

[heeroyue2002]

this is my new one.