mustang II ifs in a 49 advise

[jtwilson]

just bought one. its out of a like 75 or 6 or so has arms, x member, etc etc. what the proper steps in installation
my thoughts
1 axles center line
2 removal of unneeded stuff from stock and m2 ifs.
3 trial fit
4 box frame

thoughts

[justplainray]

go to this website
http://www.webrodder.com/index.php?p...=11&search=ifs

read these three articles. (complete with pictures)

http://www.webrodder.com/article.php...&SID=16&CID=11
http://www.webrodder.com/article.php...&SID=16&CID=11
http://www.webrodder.com/article.php...&SID=16&CID=11

it will make you an expert.

justplainray

[dwcsr]

Go to that same site and find the article on MII mistakes or what not to do when installing an MII not sure of the name. Its by Fatman Fab.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

webrodder has hundreds of the best tech articles I seen anywhere.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by jtwilson

just bought one. its out of a like 75 or 6 or so has arms, x member, etc etc. what the proper steps in installation
my thoughts
1 axles center line
2 removal of unneeded stuff from stock and m2 ifs.
3 trial fit
4 box frame

thoughts

was this cut from a pinto/mustang 2? If so I was wondering how it would work out.

[Kabwe]

Yeah but its my understanding he is not doing an aftermarket kit. He is actually doing it old school with the actual car crossmember is this correct?

A mustang 2 unit is really easy to install be it aftermarket or the original car unit. The first thing to do is tack a brace in if you should need to remove the stocked crossmember (you shouldn't but I said that just in case). Mark your center line and remove the original suspension and clean the frame so that you have a good welding surface. Check for frame squareness find a point (a) passenger side and point (b) on the driver side that are in the same location and do a cross measurement (x pattern). If everything is square set the car up with the rake you like and tack in your boxing plates and mark the center of you crossmember and make sure those centers line up with the center line you got off the original suspension. Check for the new cross members squareness and once square tack your cross member in and measure for squareness again.lol At this point I like to do a mock up of the suspension, no coils are needed just the a arms spindles and rotor with tires on and put the fenders on so that you can see if you like how the wheels are in the fender wells. If every thing is cool weld it in jump around a lot to keep it cool to avoid warpage. If its not cool its only tacked in and you can move it where you like it.

I've seen your work and this should be a piece of cake for you. I hope this helps

[mr48chev]

One of the nicer trucks around this area actually has the stock MII crossmember under it and has been on the road for over ten years. The guy drives it all over the place and if you looked at it at a show you would think the truck is a fresh build.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Yeah but its my understanding he is not doing an aftermarket kit. He is actually doing it old school with the actual car crossmember is this correct?

A mustang 2 unit is really easy to install be it aftermarket or the original car unit. The first thing to do is tack a brace in if you should need to remove the stocked crossmember (you shouldn't but I said that just in case). Mark your center line and remove the original suspension and clean the frame so that you have a good welding surface. Check for frame squareness find a point (a) passenger side and point (b) on the driver side that are in the same location and do a cross measurement (x pattern). If everything is square set the car up with the rake you like and tack in your boxing plates and mark the center of you crossmember and make sure those centers line up with the center line you got off the original suspension. Check for the new cross members squareness and once square tack your cross member in and measure for squareness again.lol At this point I like to do a mock up of the suspension, no coils are needed just the a arms spindles and rotor with tires on and put the fenders on so that you can see if you like how the wheels are in the fender wells. If every thing is cool weld it in jump around a lot to keep it cool to avoid warpage. If its not cool its only tacked in and you can move it where you like it.

I've seen your work and this should be a piece of cake for you. I hope this helps

great advice kabwe

also weld parallel welds in the same direction. it doesn't matter what way as long start at the same end. So if you weld front to rear on the right side of the frame do the same on the left. and as you skip around be as consistent as you can in one direction only.


Now I will shut up and go back to my mean old sewing machine.

[Kabwe]

And take a beer or soda break you deserve it. Plus while you are relaxing the metal has time to cool. I said a beer so don't get bent.lol