Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

57HotTruck · 06-20-2011, 12:49 PM

I'm running on 9x22 with 265/35 tires on my 57. I have been forced to use 30mm spacers because the rim hit my Pitman arm. even after I straightened it out

But after I lowered the it a little more I get a problem with the space between front wheel and fender, as seen in the photo.
It had been easy if I just could move the pitman arm 1 or 2 notches on the steering box, but it can only be moved 8 notches at a time

My plan is to cut the Pitman arm and weld it together a little offset. I have tried to show it with a piece of cardboard. With this I think I can do with 10mm spacers. I hope it is enough.

But I do not want to cut in the one I have. since I do not know if it will work.

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I have searched on ebay, but there are not any to find.

Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do?

OrrieG · 06-20-2011, 01:51 PM

I am dealing with the same issue with my 4wd conversion. My 4wd axle has stops that limit the distance the spindle will rotate, I will need to weld a nut to keep the tire from hitting the arm at extreme right rotation. Around town it is fine the truck will only need 1/4 turn to turn corners. In the sticks I will need to take longer to turn around.

I would not cut and reweld the arm, I believe they are cast. I would look a limiting the contact and deal with the wider turning radius at full lock.

55metalmonkey · 06-20-2011, 05:20 PM

I have cut and rewelded and bent pitman arms before but I would not suggest it unless you know what your doing and have the resourses to do it properly. Since it is a key componant of your steering I would avoid DIY-ing this piece. If it was me I would find one at a wrecker our used (like you planed) and have it bent for an offset or re-indexed at a 4x4 or custom shop/ machine shop this will also affect the lenght you need for your drag link, but you probably knew that. it shouldn't be outragous $$. but they have the proper equipment to ensure that it remains strong but won't be brittle.

Being in Denmark I'm not too sure of how many off-road shops you have access to but a good machine/ metal work shop shouldn't be hard to find. I do have a extra pitman arm but am selling it localy with the steering colum, besides I wouldn't want to go agaist forum rules by offering it for sale here. Also for the shipping/ customs and ect costs between Canada and Denmark you could get a local machine shop to custom make you one or alter what you have exact to what you need.

To the best of my knowledge original pitman arms are basic high strength steel heated then stamped to shape and machined to fit.

JMHO

**mr48chev** · 06-20-2011, 10:57 PM

One way or another that tire and wheel setup isn't going to clear. If you get them spaced out far enough to clear the steering they won't clear the fenders. Some things just aren't met to be and I would have to believe that those wheels and tires with that suspension on that truck is one of them.

1000000to1 · 06-21-2011, 02:03 PM

Can you put washers between the steering bow and the frame to bring your steering box in and thus moving the pitman arm in closer to the frame.

57HotTruck · 06-24-2011, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr48chev

One way or another that tire and wheel setup isn't going to clear. If you get them spaced out far enough to clear the steering they won't clear the fenders. Some things just aren't met to be and I would have to believe that those wheels and tires with that suspension on that truck is one of them.

Hi mr48chev
I hear what you say and you may be right, but I will give it a try before I give up

57HotTruck · 06-24-2011, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1000000to1

Can you put washers between the steering bow and the frame to bring your steering box in and thus moving the pitman arm in closer to the frame.

Hello
As you can see I can not get closer to the frame

55metalmonkey · 06-28-2011, 02:24 PM

Further info on top of my PM's

posting on the board in case someone else is looking for one

http://www.tuckersparts.com/search.p...=search&page=1

nikwho · 07-02-2011, 12:45 AM

Well, not the cheapest option, but have you considered a rack and pinion? Eliminate the stock steering box all together maybe? Or could be a good time for an IFS swap.....

**mr48chev** · 07-02-2011, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikwho

Well, not the cheapest option, but have you considered a rack and pinion? Eliminate the stock steering box all together maybe? Or could be a good time for an IFS swap.....

I think his ideas may be on the line of what you will have to do if you want to keep the cartoon wheels. A rack and pinion setup or even a cross steer setup would give you the clearance you need but I would think that the majority of guys who run those wheels have already switched to an independent front end.

57HotTruck · 07-02-2011, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikwho

Well, not the cheapest option, but have you considered a rack and pinion? Eliminate the stock steering box all together maybe? Or could be a good time for an IFS swap.....

I would love to swap to a independent front end with a rack and pinion setup. but the law in this country will not allow it without a very comprehensive inspection of the vehicle. the price for this is around $ 4500 - $ 5000. and that it is only for the inspction. after that there must be paid a new tax on the car. because it has been converted. my guess would be around $ 3500 to $ 4000. tax .it is not in my budget right now. to use such an amount for nothing

nikwho · 07-02-2011, 03:40 PM

Wow! thats rough! Looks like you might be stuck buying a normal set of wheels. Could off set it by selling your 22's.

Coupeguy2001 · 10-02-2011, 03:42 PM

Have you thought of turning the attach point on the drag link 90 degrees and welding it to the face of the drag link? your drag link is adjustable, so turning it 90 degrees is just loosening a nut.
The ball joint on the drag link could possibly adjust if in the neutral position it is zero degrees.

I know this is an old thread, but I just saw it.

Maximus · 10-04-2011, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57HotTruck

I would love to swap to a independent front end with a rack and pinion setup. but the law in this country will not allow it without a very comprehensive inspection of the vehicle. the price for this is around $ 4500 - $ 5000. and that it is only for the inspction. after that there must be paid a new tax on the car. because it has been converted. my guess would be around $ 3500 to $ 4000. tax .it is not in my budget right now. to use such an amount for nothing

what the law man does not know, the law man can not charge

seriously though, if you weld a IFS subframe or mustang 2 crossmember onto your truck in your garage, will someone come question you?? I would think alot of european cops wouldnt even know if it was stock or not... weird. anyways, ignore me.

As others have hinted at, obviously its your taste, but I think on a serious note what your doing could be very dangerous. the stock brakes on these trucks were NEVER designed to stop the weight of a 22" rim. you are honestly likely putting your safety at risk as well as those around you with stock drum brakes on this wheel setup, Maybe you have disc brakes? but the photos sure look like drums to me. Also, with that strait axle you will probably warp your rims on the first pothole you hit.

my opinion: find some 15" rims, go 17" if you really want, but if it were me I would NEVER get behind the wheel of a vehicle with 22" rims and 1950's drum brakes/solid axle suspension.

not trying to be a jerk, I just don't think its safe. obviously, though, you are free to do whatever your heart desires

Coupeguy2001 · 10-06-2011, 05:46 PM

After looking at your pictures, maybe you could heat the pitman arm, and twist it, then bend the eye 90 degrees. that would get you at least 1-1.5 inches. and if it doesn't work out, I have a good used one for $75 US shipped.

(and they say I'M crazy........)

**mr48chev** · 10-06-2011, 06:44 PM

Would the powers that be there in your country be agreeable with running a Heim (spherical rod end) aircraft style rod end on that end of the drag link?

I think that a proper size heim end would fit in quite a bit closer to the pitman arm and give you the needed clearance. They get used in hotrods and race cars all the time.

I don't know anything about this source except what we read but it does give some explanation about it. http://bulletproofsteering.com/failedrodend.html

You would probably have sources there for the rod ends.

06-20-2011, 12:49 PM	#1
57HotTruck Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denmark Europe Posts: 42	Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? I'm running on 9x22 with 265/35 tires on my 57. I have been forced to use 30mm spacers because the rim hit my Pitman arm. even after I straightened it out But after I lowered the it a little more I get a problem with the space between front wheel and fender, as seen in the photo. It had been easy if I just could move the pitman arm 1 or 2 notches on the steering box, but it can only be moved 8 notches at a time My plan is to cut the Pitman arm and weld it together a little offset. I have tried to show it with a piece of cardboard. With this I think I can do with 10mm spacers. I hope it is enough. But I do not want to cut in the one I have. since I do not know if it will work. Please note that you must be a supporting member to post classified items. This includes but is not limited to What Its Worth, Want To Buy, Want To Trade, and For Sale. Please consider supporting the forum by subscribing. Further information on the subscription levels available are located here If you need any further assistance with that please contact any Admin for help. I have searched on ebay, but there are not any to find. Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? Attached Images __________________ My 57 Step side http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=428139 http://www.cardomain.com/id/dk-rods Last edited by truckdude239; 06-24-2011 at 04:45 PM. Reason: WTB

06-20-2011, 01:51 PM	#2
OrrieG Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Idaho Posts: 8,800	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? I am dealing with the same issue with my 4wd conversion. My 4wd axle has stops that limit the distance the spindle will rotate, I will need to weld a nut to keep the tire from hitting the arm at extreme right rotation. Around town it is fine the truck will only need 1/4 turn to turn corners. In the sticks I will need to take longer to turn around. I would not cut and reweld the arm, I believe they are cast. I would look a limiting the contact and deal with the wider turning radius at full lock. __________________ 1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread 1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver) Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project

06-20-2011, 05:20 PM	#3
55metalmonkey Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Kelowna, BC Posts: 488	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? I have cut and rewelded and bent pitman arms before but I would not suggest it unless you know what your doing and have the resourses to do it properly. Since it is a key componant of your steering I would avoid DIY-ing this piece. If it was me I would find one at a wrecker our used (like you planed) and have it bent for an offset or re-indexed at a 4x4 or custom shop/ machine shop this will also affect the lenght you need for your drag link, but you probably knew that. it shouldn't be outragous $$. but they have the proper equipment to ensure that it remains strong but won't be brittle. Being in Denmark I'm not too sure of how many off-road shops you have access to but a good machine/ metal work shop shouldn't be hard to find. I do have a extra pitman arm but am selling it localy with the steering colum, besides I wouldn't want to go agaist forum rules by offering it for sale here. Also for the shipping/ customs and ect costs between Canada and Denmark you could get a local machine shop to custom make you one or alter what you have exact to what you need. To the best of my knowledge original pitman arms are basic high strength steel heated then stamped to shape and machined to fit. JMHO Last edited by 55metalmonkey; 06-20-2011 at 05:52 PM.

06-20-2011, 10:57 PM	#4
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,572	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? One way or another that tire and wheel setup isn't going to clear. If you get them spaced out far enough to clear the steering they won't clear the fenders. Some things just aren't met to be and I would have to believe that those wheels and tires with that suspension on that truck is one of them.

06-21-2011, 02:03 PM	#5
1000000to1 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Bienfait, Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 308	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? Can you put washers between the steering bow and the frame to bring your steering box in and thus moving the pitman arm in closer to the frame. __________________ 2013 avalanche 5.3l 1971 Gmc 350 1958 Gmc fleetside

06-28-2011, 02:24 PM	#8
55metalmonkey Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Kelowna, BC Posts: 488	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? Further info on top of my PM's posting on the board in case someone else is looking for one http://www.tuckersparts.com/search.p...=search&page=1

07-02-2011, 12:45 AM	#9
nikwho Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Posts: 974	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? Well, not the cheapest option, but have you considered a rack and pinion? Eliminate the stock steering box all together maybe? Or could be a good time for an IFS swap..... __________________ '59 Apache - 383" SBC/TH-350 '68 GMC - BBC/TH400

07-02-2011, 03:40 PM	#12
nikwho Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Posts: 974	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? Wow! thats rough! Looks like you might be stuck buying a normal set of wheels. Could off set it by selling your 22's. __________________ '59 Apache - 383" SBC/TH-350 '68 GMC - BBC/TH400

10-02-2011, 03:42 PM	#13
Coupeguy2001 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: phoenix az Posts: 723	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? Have you thought of turning the attach point on the drag link 90 degrees and welding it to the face of the drag link? your drag link is adjustable, so turning it 90 degrees is just loosening a nut. The ball joint on the drag link could possibly adjust if in the neutral position it is zero degrees. I know this is an old thread, but I just saw it.

10-06-2011, 05:46 PM	#15
Coupeguy2001 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: phoenix az Posts: 723	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? After looking at your pictures, maybe you could heat the pitman arm, and twist it, then bend the eye 90 degrees. that would get you at least 1-1.5 inches. and if it doesn't work out, I have a good used one for $75 US shipped. (and they say I'M crazy........)

10-06-2011, 06:44 PM	#16
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,572	Re: Does anyone have any other suggestions for what I can do? Would the powers that be there in your country be agreeable with running a Heim (spherical rod end) aircraft style rod end on that end of the drag link? I think that a proper size heim end would fit in quite a bit closer to the pitman arm and give you the needed clearance. They get used in hotrods and race cars all the time. I don't know anything about this source except what we read but it does give some explanation about it. http://bulletproofsteering.com/failedrodend.html You would probably have sources there for the rod ends.



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