eliminate hood X brace on 55-57

[Speedbumpauto]

Did some search on here and found where one of you, at least, welded the rear support member to the hood skin as a remedy for hood flex when you don't want to use the X brace. It appeared by the pics that you didn't weld solid but only in three places where the support was spliced together. Is this correct and did it work? Anyone else willing to chime in on good fixes for eliminating/modifying that brace?
My big block/tunnel ram application makes using the brace, as is, impossible plus I think it's just plain ugly and I pancaked the hood which complicates the problem. Don't beat me up about trying to out think the GM engineers or keeping it standard, I already got that and my brain doesn't work that way. Creatitivity appreciated!

[OrrieG]

I could use my engineering education to figure out the loading etc. but in the end would use the spot weld and wiggle until well braced method. Only down side I see is that over time the hood skin might start cracking or popping the paint from stress. Maybe adding some flat stock on the sides from the rear to front braces with one end being slotted bolt arrangement to allow for squaring or adjusting to the fenders?? Triangulation is the best way to brace but angled moment connections will work too, I use them all the time when we take the rod cross bracing out of metal buildings to install large doors.

[Kim57]

Welcome.
Here's a link to my build thread. Starting on page 12 you can see how I pancaked my hood and what I did with the bracing. I'm also making mine tilt and have found it to be very stiff with what I have done so far.
I will probably add some spots to the front and rear cross braces for some added support.
Kim
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=283107

[Speedbumpauto]

Kim, Thanks so much for getting me to your build site. My thoughts for braces were much like what you did but I didn't consider the triangulation of the front support like you did. My hood will open in the traditional manner so my question is do you think the triangulation and running the round tubing to the triangulating member contributed to the overall stiffness of the hood or might I be OK running round tubing from the orig threaded holes back to front?
Your ideas and craftsmanship are great! I wonder how guys like you and BAM can keep it up for such a long time without seeing anything in paint. I'm already crazy/depressed (alternating) over how long I've been working on this thing and I did trade out work for the top and the hood!!! Thanks again.

[Kim57]

Sppedbumpauto
Thanks for he kind words.
Most of the hoods I've seen that have the X brace removed have the original rear holes and front outside holes connected similar to what I did on mine.
They have a brace that runs across to connect the front holes and then braces that connect it to the rear holes.
I think if you could do that it would give you all the support you would need.
Hope this helps

[Speedbumpauto]

Thank you Kim57 for the pics and the idea. Here is what I finally ended up with and it really works, even on this pancaked hood. Thanks again.

[Kim57]

That looks pretty slick. Glad it worked out for you.
Kim

[OrrieG]

Ditto, looks good.

[57picupnewbie]

Speedbumpauto, I was reading the conversation between you and Kim57 and like your design. I was planning on a front tilt hood but I think I am staying with original. I would like to remove the x-bracing and use your design if you don't mind. Do you have the dimentions you wouldin't mind sharing? Thanks and keep up the good work!

[Speedbumpauto]

I'm honored!, but that's what forums like this are for, ideas and inspiration. I used 3/4 tube and my long bars are about 32" and the laterals are about 19".
I used 1x 1/8 flat stock for the holes at the end of the tubing and used all the factory holes and added two 5/16 flush welded nuts next to the latch brace on each side. It would be easier to use nut-serts for this but I didn't have a 5/16 mandrel and I wanted them all to be the same. I don't consider the dimensions as important as getting as much triangulation as you can get on the front to back bars. I also slotted the bolt holes on one end of each bar so I could pre stress the hood during assembly if I needed to. Good luck.

[Daze57]

kim

your work is top notch as usuall

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Daze57

kim

your work is top notch as usuall

Thanks.
Kim

[hotrod1]

Here is another option.

Go here:

http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...lbum=39&page=6

Look at picture 19.

Nice work. I would like to have the abilities to make this kind of stuff.