bags and shocks help

[3drburb]

Hello gals and guys, I'm going to bag my 72 burb (and may be buying CPP c- notch and drop spindels because of the price) and would like some advise on what bags and shocks and what else you are using to improve the ride of your Suburbans.
Anyone using Airbagit buy 2 get 2 free air bags?
I'll be looking to do this and other upgrades and repairs over the next few months with hopes of driving it more than the 100 or so miles we drove it this year.
Thanks for your help.

[gcburdic]

If ya don't get any answers here, I can move it to the suspension forum for a little more help....just let me know...

BTW...nice looking burb here!!!

[gcburdic]

how about some help from our suspension gurus

[SCOTI]

How about using one of the board supporting vendors to source your air needs? Airbagit.com does not have a bad/poor reputation by coincidence (google their name & read up on them).

CPP offers a HD c-notch kit that uses thicker than typical steel for the notch plates. Their modular spindles also help keep the track width up front the same as w/drums. For the rear they offer the standard shock relocators & long or short adjustable Panhard bars.

Hotchkis has a nice front shock kit available w/specific tuned Bilstein shocks & relocation brackets to optimize travel & performance. They also offer specific rear stuff abeit a little pricy (rear shock set-up & Panhard bar kit).

No Limit Engineering offers a really nice rear shock bracket set-up & Panhard bar kit.

Porterbuilt also offers a bolt-in notch kit that utilizes reinforcement plates, a rear shock set-up, & a nice Panhard bar kit.

No Limit, Porterbuilt, Hotchkis, Way2Lo2, RideTech, CPP, & Scotts HotRods all actively support this site & its members. Check out the Suspension Marketplace for deals & specifics.....
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...play.php?f=210

[project 67 sub]

x2 on what SCOTI said

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

How about using one of the board supporting vendors to source your air needs? Airbagit.com does not have a bad/poor reputation by coincidence (google their name & read up on them).

CPP offers a HD c-notch kit that uses thicker than typical steel for the notch plates. Their modular spindles also help keep the track width up front the same as w/drums. For the rear they offer the standard shock relocators & long or short adjustable Panhard bars.

Hotchkis has a nice front shock kit available w/specific tuned Bilstein shocks & relocation brackets to optimize travel & performance. They also offer specific rear stuff abeit a little pricy (rear shock set-up & Panhard bar kit).

No Limit Engineering offers a really nice rear shock bracket set-up & Panhard bar kit.

Porterbuilt also offers a bolt-in notch kit that utilizes reinforcement plates, a rear shock set-up, & a nice Panhard bar kit.

No Limit, Porterbuilt, Hotchkis, Way2Lo2, RideTech, CPP, & Scotts HotRods all actively support this site & its members. Check out the Suspension Marketplace for deals & specifics.....
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...play.php?f=210

Thanks SCOTI and gcburdic, I have no problem using a board member.
I'm just wondering what size and type bags suburban guys are using and I think somewhere I saw guys using Chryler shocks in the front and rear.
I have a very good used air system with set of the old style firestone bags and wanted to know if it would be better to go with another type or bigger.
I also have a CPP catalog that why I mentioned their spindles and c-notch.
Thanks I didn't think about shock reloators and this is the main reason for posting for help so I would be able to get what is needed to and do it quickly.
Googled Airbagit on this site vey SCARY, also googled CPP and it's just a little better, but if I order soon I can wait. Way2lo2 seems like who I will be giving a call for new lines and bags.
Also I've seen air tanks under and inside these trucks. Whats the downside having it inside, other than them taking up space?
Thanks for the help and advice.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 3drburb

Thanks SCOTI and gcburdic, I have no problem using a board member.
I'm just wondering what size and type bags suburban guys are using and I think somewhere I saw guys using Chryler shocks in the front and rear.
I have a very good used air system with set of the old style firestone bags and wanted to know if it would be better to go with another type or bigger.
I also have a CPP catalog that why I mentioned their spindles and c-notch.
Thanks I didn't think about shock reloators and this is the main reason for posting for help so I would be able to get what is needed to and do it quickly.
Googled Airbagit on this site vey SCARY, also googled CPP and it's just a little better, but if I order soon I can wait. Way2lo2 seems like who I will be giving a call for new lines and bags.
Also I've seen air tanks under and inside these trucks. Whats the downside having it inside, other than them taking up space?
Thanks for the help and advice.

The standard front bag is a dbl convoluted 7" bag (Firestone F6823/224c, Slam Specialties RE-7, or similar). The rears can use the same bag as well or truck use a slightly smaller 6-6.5" dbl convoluted bag (Firestone F6781/267c, Slams RE-6, or similar). With the heavier rear of the burb, the same size all around would work well.

I've seen the threads where guys use shocks for a Chrysler up front. But, simply relocating the upper shock mount allows using a factory replacement C10 shock up to 6 or so inches of front drop (3" spindles + bags). Pick your poison.

For the rear, I'd do the shock relocators & lowering blocks to maximize shock travel (relocators improve the shock angle while adding travel length between mounting points & blocks yield drop w/o affecting shock travel). Again, this allows using a standard C10 replacement shock vs. something custom.

No issues mounting the air tank indoors. I'd keep the compressor/s outside since they're kind of noisy.

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The standard front bag is a dbl convoluted 7" bag (Firestone F6823/224c, Slam Specialties RE-7, or similar). The rears can use the same bag as well or truck use a slightly smaller 6-6.5" dbl convoluted bag (Firestone F6781/267c, Slams RE-6, or similar). With the heavier rear of the burb, the same size all around would work well.

I've seen the threads where guys use shocks for a Chrysler up front. But, simply relocating the upper shock mount allows using a factory replacement C10 shock up to 6 or so inches of front drop (3" spindles + bags). Pick your poison.

For the rear, I'd do the shock relocators & lowering blocks to maximize shock travel (relocators improve the shock angle while adding travel length between mounting points & blocks yield drop w/o affecting shock travel). Again, this allows using a standard C10 replacement shock vs. something custom.

No issues mounting the air tank indoors. I'd keep the compressor/s outside since they're kind of noisy.

Thanks again SCOTI, I think you may have answered all my questions. I guess you truly are a suspension guru. Again thanks for your time and response.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 3drburb

Thanks again SCOTI, I think you may have answered all my questions. I guess you truly are a suspension guru. Again thanks for your time and response.

There are several correct ways to do the job.

I just try to suggest things that have worked in the past w/o reinventing the wheel. Others do the same from their experiences. Even though the suggestions can be different, if planned well, you should achieve good, solid, results.

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by 3drburb

Thanks again SCOTI, I think you may have answered all my questions. I guess you truly are a suspension guru. Again thanks for your time and response.

Thanks Scoti for all your help, you ALWAYS give good suggestions!!

[kieth]

If you want to ease into it bag the rear first, then add front drop spindles, you may find you do not need to bag the front.......JMO Kieth

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by kieth

If you want to ease into it bag the rear first, then add front drop spindles, you may find you do not need to bag the front.......JMO Kieth

I considered just bagging the rears only, but talked myself into doing all once so I wouldn't be buying parts like lowering springs and others, doing the work and then pulling them off to install bags later. Thanks Kieth

[Hotchkis]

SCOTI – Thanks for the mention and helping promote sponsors of this forum.

Here’s the Hotchkis front shock relocation kit you were referring to. It puts the shocks in a much better angle to improve performance and allow shocks to operate without foaming internally. This cool system is designed for trucks with 2 to 4-inches of suspension drop.





http://www.hotchkis.net/hotchkis_tun..._brackets.html

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hotchkis

SCOTI – Thanks for the mention and helping promote sponsors of this forum.

Here’s the Hotchkis front shock relocation kit you were referring to. It puts the shocks in a much better angle to improve performance and allow shocks to operate without foaming internally. This cool system is designed for trucks with 2 to 4-inches of suspension drop.

To clarify... That's 2-4" of spring drop or spindle + spring (total) drop?

[kieth]

Originally Posted by 3drburb

I considered just bagging the rears only, but talked myself into doing all once so I wouldn't be buying parts like lowering springs and others, doing the work and then pulling them off to install bags later. Thanks Kieth

We did our own work and after installing all new front end parts it is not hard to remove the ball joints since they have not had time to seize up.....we have been playing change the stance to see what it looks like and what is possible with the tire and wheel combination that I have. Not knowing all, it has been a little more work going one step at a time but that way we have not made any bad mistakes which are costly. If I were paying to have someone else do the work I would not want to pay twice for the same thing either. Good luck with your build. Kieth

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by kieth

We did our own work and after installing all new front end parts it is not hard to remove the ball joints since they have not had time to seize up.....we have been playing change the stance to see what it looks like and what is possible with the tire and wheel combination that I have. Not knowing all, it has been a little more work going one step at a time but that way we have not made any bad mistakes which are costly. If I were paying to have someone else do the work I would not want to pay twice for the same thing either. Good luck with your build. Kieth

I'll be doing most of the work myself with help hopefully from you guys, haha, running 15x7 and 15x8 TTII. So I'll be using a ton of parts I already have sitting around. As for luck thanks I'll be needing it as I have big plans and gave myself a few months to do it. (a true working shop truck) Thanks

[Hotchkis]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

To clarify... That's 2-4" of spring drop or spindle + spring (total) drop?

SCOTI - The shock relocation kit is for a 2-4" drop spring. If you choose to install drop spindles, it will not change the location of the shocks or alter the travel of the suspension.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hotchkis

SCOTI - The shock relocation kit is for a 2-4" drop spring. If you choose to install drop spindles, it will not change the location of the shocks or alter the travel of the suspension.

Thanks for the clarification.