door lock switches on 85 Silverado

[ges55]

After having 2 67s for years, I decided to upgrade to power steering & automatic transmission, but still stay with an older body style. The problem is my electric windows & door locks. I did searches & found all the possible fixes, but I still don't know how to remove the switches from the door panel. Can this be done without taking the panel off? Thanks & I'll be monitoring this portion of the website as well as the 67-72 part of it. Also, where can I get an owner's manual. LMC doesn't have any for my year & Ebay had one, but I don't know if it was for the Silverado. It just said 1985 Chevy Truck on the cover,

[old Rusty C10]

the owners manual for 1985 covers all models silverado is a trim level
the switches are held in by clips to the door panel you have to remove the door panel to get them out

[ges55]

Thanks. Then I'll get the manual from Ebay if it's still available.

[tucsonjwt]

Use care when removing switches. Best bet is a very small flat screwdriver and carefully slip it under one side of the bezel - push in slowly and the switch should pop away from the door panel a bit, then push on the other side, necessary. There should be a round plastic knurled knob on the center pin of the switch which goes through the connector on the end of the harness. When you turn that knob it will likely come off and leave a speed nut which is what actually holds the switch to the connector.
Most of us replace switches right away because they are inexpensive, but it is best to check the wiring harness for power to the switch first. I have had only one switch go bad, but I got faked out because of intermittent power to the connector due to frayed wires inside the connector. Those wires at the connector are bent at a 90 degree angle where the enter the connector and tend to fray/break off easily when removing/replacing switches. You can't see the breaks unless you look very closely - those frayed wires can make you think you have a bad switch when you really don't.

[ges55]

Thanks for the info. I'll be sure and check that out.

[ges55]

I found an owner's manual on Ebay.

[Motodrew]

I've posted this in ELECTRICAL, however I'm not getting much response:

I've searched. I've failed. Are any of the wires leading to the drivers door lock (tan or gray) expected to be hot at all times? Neither is hot before going through the door jam. Whether I use the drivers or passenger side lock switch, ONLY the passenger side functions. Anyone tackled this problem in the past?

[tucsonjwt]

I forget the wiring diagram for the power locks, but both switches should have power all of the time. If only one switch is working I would look for problems at the non-functioning switch - check that switch for lack of constant power and trace back through the wiring. On my truck, I thought I had bad switches and actuators but all I had was slightly rusty/corroded door lock rod which was hanging up - lubrication of the lock rod solved the problem. You should hear a click when operating the switch on the non-function lock. No click likely means no power to the switch. Click means power to switch, but no power through switch or at actuator.

[ges55]

I took the driver's side power lock switch out & cleaned it up & now the relay clicks in both the up & down modes. I found out that if I moved the locking knob to one side, the lock will go both up & down every time, but when I take my finger off, it quits working. What might the problem be? Thanks in advance for the help.

[tucsonjwt]

Sounds like a sticking/corroded lock rod - remove the lock knob and see it that helps, along with cleaning/WD40 on the lock rod. If that fails, I suspect the actuator. These are all easy things to do with the door panel removed.