crank relearn procedure wont work

[Dillon79scotts]

i had let the my truck sit for about a weak and the battery got low, which gave a slight slow crank when i went to fire it up...
noticed a MIL Lamp was on, pulled the code p1336, (crank relearn needed basically..
what might cause it to need a re learn? ive got many hours of drive time on it. maybe 200 miles or little under since i got it running and never had this issue.

also, im using Tech 2 the Gm programmer, and trying to preform the relearn procedure im running into these issues,

i follow the procedure as tech 2 says, then when i hit continue for it to preform the relearn it says a error message " device control not authorized" or unavailable (something to that extent)

so i went through my parameters and looking through the transmission data i saw that it was saying i was in Current gear:2 vehicle speed:0 mph.
would this cause this error message i was getting? since it wants to see park or neutral....I also cant manually control the rpm through the tech 2 because its saying its in gear.
Ive tried manually shifting it through tech 2 and it wont go any lower than 1st and it dont make a difference which gear its in

Im assuming the reason it wont let me do the crank relearn is because it revs the engine, and it thinking its still in gear, so it would take off...even tho i have my th350 in park.


has anyone ran into this issue before? any solutions you can possibly think of?

i got my Ecm reflashed from brenden at LT1Swap.com

tuned for a 2002 5.3l lm7 Vin (T) no egr no vats, no evap.. and all of that other BS thats typically removed

Thanks for any info in advance
i got the Ecm reflashed supposly for a manual trans, so i could run my th350 with no problems.

[Jonce]

I would be interested to know the fix for this too.


When I built my 5.3L S-10, I was throwing the P1336 code as well. I tried do the relearn process several times with an HP Tuner and never got it to work properly. When I cammed it and got a new mail order tune (different computer), I never got the P1336 code again. I know this doesn't really help you but I thought it was interesting that it went away with a new computer/tune.

[Dillon79scotts]

Originally Posted by Jonce

I would be interested to know the fix for this too.


When I built my 5.3L S-10, I was throwing the P1336 code as well. I tried do the relearn process several times with an HP Tuner and never got it to work properly. When I cammed it and got a new mail order tune (different computer), I never got the P1336 code again. I know this doesn't really help you but I thought it was interesting that it went away with a new computer/tune.

the reason i hear from the guy who tuned mine was, battery voltage fell to low.. and it wont relearn properly because his tune says the trans is in second gear, and it wants to see park or neutraul

[clinebarger]

Grounding pins 32 & 34 of the BLUE PCM connector will fool the PCM into thinking the trans is in park.

[Dillon79scotts]

i grounded only 34 and it worked. got my re learn done today. runs good again besides my stalling issue im fighting with now.

i think its my fuel filter before the pump. its made for carb engines and its clear plastic with the paper inside seems to possibly be restricting or im sucking air.

truck will start chugging at idle, and shortly after it will die(sometimes it will pull itself back up). then if i dont cycle the key and try cranking again, it will crank for 5 seconds before it sputters back to life

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by Dillon79scotts

i grounded only 34 and it worked. got my re learn done today. runs good again besides my stalling issue im fighting with now.

i think its my fuel filter before the pump. its made for carb engines and its clear plastic with the paper inside seems to possibly be restricting or im sucking air.

truck will start chugging at idle, and shortly after it will die(sometimes it will pull itself back up). then if i dont cycle the key and try cranking again, it will crank for 5 seconds before it sputters back to life

I'd loose the filter, I'm not running a filter before my pump and everything is great so far.

[harnalien]

I was going to say ground 32 and 34 as well. It didn't work for me, but others have had success apparently.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dillon79scotts]

what filter are you running then? after the pump only to a threaded actual fuel injection filter?

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by Dillon79scotts

what filter are you running then? after the pump only to a threaded actual fuel injection filter?

My engine is a 2007 which has a returnless fuel system so I'm running the Corvette filter/regulator combo.



Maybe something like this would work for you.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-650133/

[Dillon79scotts]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

My engine is a 2007 which has a returnless fuel system so I'm running the Corvette filter/regulator combo.



Maybe something like this would work for you.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-650133/

Well today I totally removed my filter to try and cure my stalling issue... No luck...
So I got a few videos I need to post. It seems like I have air coming in somewhere. The truck will chug then die, if I don't cycle the key again to reprime it but I crank the engine over it will crank for about 5 seconds before it sputters back to life. Still has fuel pressure but the gauge will read air pressure too..
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dillon79scotts]

today i tried taking the filter off trying to cure those other issues stated above. made no difference. truck will still stall every few minutes, sometime it will pull itself back up and sometimes it will try but cant.

watched my fuel pressure gauge as this happened. didnt drop or gain anything.

got multiple videos to upload

best ive got is link to video didnt know how to make it show here

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/694/s7iu.mp4/
(this one is a start up after it had died and i cycled the key to run the pump again. notice it was missing off start up, had to bump the throttle and it stopped.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/828/3fi.mp4/
(this time i had it running again, it stalled out and i didnt cycle the key, i just started cranking again)

last video is picture of my fuel pressure as its doing this

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/27/ax0.mp4/

thanks in advance on any input

[Dillon79scotts]

Anyone?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dillon79scotts]

Originally Posted by Dillon79scotts

Anyone?
Posted via Mobile Device

no help?

[usmcchevy]

I'm starting to think your crank sensor may be at fault. There is no reason a crank relearn should be needed from a dead battery. And maybe you're loosing spark or timing causing the motor to die. Just thinking and typeing...

[Dillon79scotts]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

I'm starting to think your crank sensor may be at fault. There is no reason a crank relearn should be needed from a dead battery. And maybe you're loosing spark or timing causing the motor to die. Just thinking and typeing...

had my truck idling for about a half hour and it never did die... fuel pump left me stranded at mcdonalds... locked up or something on me the other day. had to take it off and tap it on the ground and it started working again.

ordered and installed a new one already. still havent had any issues.. i wont what this could be. still reading my 45 psi at idle. 54/55 at WOT

[Clyde65]

I thought LS motors needed 58PSi at idle, am I wrong here?

[BR3W CITY]

no 58psi is the "working" pressure for the ls engines.

[Dillon79scotts]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

no 58psi is the "working" pressure for the ls engines.

im not getting that even at full throttle, or with the vacuum line off the FPR.

do i need higher? idk what to do to bump it up besides return line restriction

[Clyde65]

What pump are you running?

[BR3W CITY]

You said that the fuel pump shutoff and you had to hit it to come back on? Sounds like it actually overheated the pump. Do you have a lot of distance or a big height change between your tank and your pump? I know many electric pumps don't like the "straw" effect that can happen, collapsing a rubber hose.

[Dillon79scotts]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

You said that the fuel pump shutoff and you had to hit it to come back on? Sounds like it actually overheated the pump. Do you have a lot of distance or a big height change between your tank and your pump? I know many electric pumps don't like the "straw" effect that can happen, collapsing a rubber hose.

it had to be hit many times, didnt work. so i took it off and dropped it on the ground. fixed. i REPlACED the pump. Havent had a single stall issue.

Although im trying to fight another problem ive got with fuel.

Considering this truck is a offroader' i dont have a baffle in my tank so when i back up onto a dirt pile and fuel sloshs forward, the pump starts sucking air.
i guess i could have a cracked pickup tube.