Tailgate; electric wondow to manual window conversion?

[Psycho71]

Well, I've bypassed the sensor in the bottom that limits it's downward travel. I have bypassed the switch in the tailgate itself and now it only uses the switch in the dash, I have replaced all the bad connections from the PO's previous attempts to fix it, and have replaced the drive motor as well. I have had the whole assembly apart numerous times, greased it, adjusted the spring tensioner, etc.. It still acts up. Funny, when it decides to just quit working, I can get mad and kick the tailgate right where the motor is and it will start again. Like the transmission is hanging up or something. I am just sick of fighting with. I have a drawer system I just built in the back area of the burb, and I can't use it when out hunting and such because i never know when the window will decide not to work, locking me out of access to my gear.

I looked through my LMC books, and they have manual components listed for both the blazer and the burb. They only list one part number for a tailgate that supposedly fits all burbs. So I can only assume that the regulator and handles will swap from electric to manual without much issue. I guess I'm gonna gamble and order the stuff if I can't find one in a wrecking yard this week. I'll report my findings.

Still open to input though. Any advce that might save me more frustration is welcome.

[RandyP]

My experience is with a K5 that had a power rear window. I got my hands on a used tailgate that was manual and started swapping stuff out. I did end up having to buy the exterior handle and a few pieces for the handle linkage from LMC, but otherwise is a simple swap out. Seems the exterior handles are a common thing to break, so finding a good one on a used gate is slim to none. The prices of those parts are stupid high, seems all in all I spent about $400 swapping mine over. But by golly when I was done it went up and down with a crank, every time.

[RuthlessSuburban88]

Originally Posted by Psycho71

Well, I've bypassed the sensor in the bottom that limits it's downward travel. I have bypassed the switch in the tailgate itself and now it only uses the switch in the dash, I have replaced all the bad connections from the PO's previous attempts to fix it, and have replaced the drive motor as well. I have had the whole assembly apart numerous times, greased it, adjusted the spring tensioner, etc.. It still acts up. Funny, when it decides to just quit working, I can get mad and kick the tailgate right where the motor is and it will start again. Like the transmission is hanging up or something. I am just sick of fighting with. I have a drawer system I just built in the back area of the burb, and I can't use it when out hunting and such because i never know when the window will decide not to work, locking me out of access to my gear.

I looked through my LMC books, and they have manual components listed for both the blazer and the burb. They only list one part number for a tailgate that supposedly fits all burbs. So I can only assume that the regulator and handles will swap from electric to manual without much issue. I guess I'm gonna gamble and order the stuff if I can't find one in a wrecking yard this week. I'll report my findings.

Still open to input though. Any advce that might save me more frustration is welcome.

Oh God! i pray i never have to deal with that..im surprised that it still doesn't work if youve replaced everything.. maybe its getting hung up on something, stupid idea but ill throw anything out there! haaha