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Old 08-19-2003, 02:30 PM   #1
C20mama
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Parked 15 years, need start-up help. Gas tanks, engine.

Hi, trying to restore/revitalize a C20 that has been parked 15 years. I am concerned with the gas tanks, which seem to have rust lining peeling off - any ideas on what to do with these? New tanks? reline the old? what options are available?

Also, what should I do with the engine? Is there something to put in there to help then engine get going?

Any other tips you guys can give me on getting this 15 year old sitter up and going would be great.

p.s. this truck has cruise control - is that common or uncommon?

Thanks,

C20mama
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Old 08-19-2003, 02:52 PM   #2
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Old 08-19-2003, 02:54 PM   #3
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in my old willys jeep, i had the old 10 gallon tank sandblasted and coated and whatever, it cost me over $100. Dont know if that helps, just thought i would let you know. That was also about 5 yrs ago.
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:32 PM   #4
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If its been that long, I would pull the pan and clean it out along with the valve covers. Pour some oil over the valves. pull the intake manifold and do the same for the cam. drain and flush radiator check to make sure none of the pasages are blocked in the block while you have the intake off. replace thermostat, plugs, distributor, rotor, wires, pcv, oil, air and fuel filters. Before you go drving off pull the brakes and make sure they work properly. Gas tank, may consider replacement. there are several people around that have changed to blazer tanks and will basically "give away" there cab tank, take a look on the parts board up top. It may be a good idea to rebuild the carb also.

Good Luck!
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Old 08-19-2003, 06:25 PM   #5
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I'm assuming your gas tank has flaking rust on the inside. Do not put any gas in it, the rust will end up in the carb.

Here's what I would do to get the truck running.

Pull the spark plugs, squirt some kerosene, diesel fuel or atf in the cylinders. Try turning the engine over by hand, either with a wrench on the balancer bolt or using a flywheel tool. If it won't turn over, let it set for a few days, squirting in some more oil every day. It doesn't take much, just trying to lube the rings.

Once you get the engine to turn, change the oil & filter. Pull the distributor and remove the valve covers. Using an old distributor shaft, or the tool you can buy, spin the oil pump until oil flows through the valve train. This will insure your engine is oiled before starting. Put the valve covers back on, distributor in, check the points and the plugs, and install the plugs. Fill the system with water (I don't use antifreeze here, it will need backflushed soon) and install a battery. For a fuel supply stick the line for the gas tank in a gas can since your tank's rusty. A little gas down the carb can help, too. You should be ready to start the truck.

Once you get it running, you can worry about flushing the cooling system, cleaning the gunk out of the engine, and diagnosing the engine. Not much use to do all of that if there are major problems somewhere.

Back to the gas tank. First, pull the tank and inspect it. Look for rust holes. If there are any, it's time for another tank. If not, you can take the tank to a radiator shop and get it boiled out. Then use a good tank sealer, I recommend POR-15's kit, I've had good results when the directions are followed to the letter.
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:32 PM   #6
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Good advice from Fred.....definitely lube the rings and turn by hand first.
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:04 PM   #7
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Welcome to the board from South Mississippi! Oh yeah, cruise is fairly rare.
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Old 08-20-2003, 10:22 AM   #8
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Thanks for the good advice guys, it is important to me that I do this project the right way. I'll keep you posted!
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Old 08-20-2003, 10:31 AM   #9
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Welcome, get some pics of the truck if you can so we can see what your working with.
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Old 08-20-2003, 03:21 PM   #10
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Guys,

Would it be worth his while to pop a head and see if there was rust on the cylinder walls? If there is and he just starts cranking it, he's going to be in need of lower end work in a hurry won't he?

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Old 08-20-2003, 03:36 PM   #11
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When he pulls the plugs he'll see if he's got moisture in the combustion chambers or not. He'll have rust in there. Also if he pops the intake he might see rust in the valley.

If he takes his valve covers off, his intake, pulls the plugs, and turns by hand and doesn't see any rust or water I think he'll be fine.

Also, if there's coolant in either the oil or the coolant from the radiator will tell him if coolant has gotten into the oil from the heads.

INSPECT EVERYTHING!

Good luck...
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Old 08-21-2003, 01:07 AM   #12
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If all checks out well, treat it like you would a new engine and give it a can of GM's EOS. That stuff works great at keeping everthing lubed.
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Old 08-25-2003, 03:58 PM   #13
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I did what your asking about. The truck I bought had been sitting in a field for six years with the gas cap off (about four gallons of water, and mud thanks to children)

I replaced the fuel tank which was easy besides the pre-drilled holes were not right. (A little more money and you could install a racing fuel tank in the bed and just get a flat bed cover - if there is no law against that. Then have room inside the cab for a great sound sys.)

The fuel filter was completely packed with rust so I replaced that and the gas pump at the same time.

I took off the carb and rebuilt it with a rebuild kit ($10) and a can of the liquid solvent stuff ($20). It was very easy to do. Everything in the carb had dried up thick like glue and the metering rods had a wasp nest built around them. You can now just buy an original carb rebuilt from local auto supply store.

A new battery and the truck started.

Then I did all the other normal stuff (replace the dist., spark plugs, wires, ignition coil). Set the timing.

I didn't really know what I was getting myself into as I didn't know anything about it besides what I read from the manual. Plus it's hard to work on a truck outdoors when it's raining, snow storm, 110 degrees, night, etc, and your working 60 hours a week. But I'd rather be doing this than even fishing.

I replaced the complete brake system (everything rubber was rotted ofcourse) with original type parts. It took a lot longer than it should have and was a pain. (I wish I had spent a few dollars more and just installed a disk brake sys.)
The fuel sys. The brake sys. Next will be complete wiring overhaul.

Good luck to you. It will only takes a little money and work.
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Old 08-25-2003, 04:09 PM   #14
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These are all good tips. But I think one more should be added.
Replace the fuel pump. If it has been sitting that long, the pump is either going to be bad, or will be bad after a few miles or so. If it ruptures, the fuel will mix in with the oil and can do more damage than what you are worried about starting it up after 15 yrs.
It is cheap insurance also.
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Old 08-25-2003, 04:24 PM   #15
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C20mama, I have a fuel tank that goes behind the seat. If you need it, it is yours. I also am in cali, but up north. I have a extra on that has not sold, I will look tonight and make sure it is still in the barn. If you need it let me know. It is clean, cam out of a running truck and no rust in side. Let me know Landon
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