Slammed Towing Oxymoron?

[97gase]

I'm Working on my 61 C10 long bed and want it as low as possible and still be able to tow a car hauler or vintage travel trailer with it. I ordered 1.5" blocks from Way2lo2 and am looking for a set of TJ rear springs. I have a set of original 1/4 elliptic leaf helper springs from my half ton parts truck. I'll just mount the helpers up a little higher than stock so they would engage with over 500LBs of load. The helpers will add about a half ton of support over the Jeep's towing capacity. I figure I'll need a slight C-notch and am willing to channel the bed a couple inches. I don't want the notch to weaken the frame too much so it'll be boxed and beefed. That way i can still use a bumper pull trailer. As for the engine, it is a 403 Smokey and the Bandit setup and makes ample power. I'm planning on stock 89-98 6 lug disks up front with custom ball joints and stock drums in back with a power booster. The front suspension will be indexed and turned down 1 ton torsion bars from a 60 model parts truck.

What towing issues do you forsee and what have others done with slammed tow rigs?

[kieth]

You have plenty of power and capacity, the only thing you are going to lack is suspension travel and frame strength. Cutting the notch really weakens the rear frame and you are going to be adding stress to it right where it can least afford it. I currently have a 66 gmc with rear air bags on trailing arms, to date have not notched the frame, with the bags I can add air to keep the truck level with a trailer but as soon as I notch the frame my trailer towing days will be over.....or at least restricted to very light trailers and loads. Kieth light single axle motorcycle trailer.....no car trailer......JMO

[Pop's C-10]

there are bagged, notched trucks towing trailers..i think air lift bags would be better than that soild mount helpers..that way you can tailor to ability & ride of tha truck

[BR3W CITY]

I've seen truck with 10" step notches haul 2-3 car haulers. notch it, box it, and run a bridge/bridged crossmember...you'll be fine for 1 car or a travel trailer.

I actually prefer SLAM bags just because of how beefy many of them are...you can run a bigger bag (slam 8 maybe) at less psi and still have a nice ride...then you have the option to turn the pressure up which will affect the effective dampening of the suspension. When I've run spring overloads, or additional springs etc, it creates a hard bouncy ride that sucks when un loaded. If you run a bag helper you can keep a stockish ride, and adjust the air to handle to load as needed.

[theastronaut]

I've C notched my frame and I'm planning on towing with it. I'm going to weld a couple 1/4" plates inside the frame rails the length of the notch, box the outside of the rail with 1/4" plate, and box the rest of the frame with 1/8" plate front to back. Not counting the thickness of the original frame, that would make the bracing 15/16" thick since the notch itself it 3/16". I would think that with the extra bracing it should be strong enough to tow with? I'm using Airlift D2600 bags that have a load range up to 3055 lb each. They're also tall enough that they don't need cups to mount them.

[SCOTI]

CPP was making a HD rear bolt-in notch that's similar to their standard notch w/the exception of being made w/thicker 3/8" steel plate. Porterbuilts bolt-in notch also uses backing plates for additional reinforcement.

For towing capacity, I would skip the Jeep springs w/the OE type 'helper' leafs & go directly w/some air bags. Better ride quality & adjustable depending on the load.

[97gase]

I may go static for now with plenty of boxing and extra top bracing for a better Ixx value and save for bags later. I've got about $500 to $1000 left to get the whole thing on the road.

What about Z'ing? Would that be much better for towing?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 97gase

I may go static for now with plenty of boxing and extra top bracing for a better Ixx value and save for bags later. I've got about $500 to $1000 left to get the whole thing on the road.

What about Z'ing? Would that be much better for towing?

What's "a better Ixx value"?

The Jeep springs will kill any load capacity vs the OE springs so you might get drop but it won't be really useable like you need. For dbl the price of rear static dropped springs, you could get the same ride quality as the softer jeep springs, the ride height of dropped springs, & the ability to tow your desired loads. The frame reinforcements will be the same regardless of how it's suspended (static drop or air).

Parts added that don't help w/your intended use = money wasted.
Spending a little more to meet your intended use goal & have greater adjustability = money wisely spent.

[Blue Heeler]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I've C notched my frame and I'm planning on towing with it. I'm going to weld a couple 1/4" plates inside the frame rails the length of the notch, box the outside of the rail with 1/4" plate, and box the rest of the frame with 1/8" plate front to back. Not counting the thickness of the original frame, that would make the bracing 15/16" thick since the notch itself it 3/16". I would think that with the extra bracing it should be strong enough to tow with? I'm using Airlift D2600 bags that have a load range up to 3055 lb each. They're also tall enough that they don't need cups to mount them.

Do you have some more pictures of your set up?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Blue Heeler

Do you have some more pictures of your set up?

There's a couple more pics in my build thread "Project Goldilocks", there's a link to it in my signature. I just got the bags on it this past weekend and don't have any of the bracing welded in yet. Its in the mock-up stage now so nothing is permanent yet, I'll get it all together and everything finalized then tear it down to weld and paint it all.
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[BR3W CITY]

I should also mention, if you do this look for a bag with an INTERNAL bump stop. If the bag is aired out all the way you can actually compress some bags enough to rub and damage them from the inside, especially so if fully loaded down.

[Corts60]

I'm sure you are looking to go way lower than my set-up but, budget wise, going with TJ springs and air shocks in the back gets me along just fine. The whole set-up cost me less than $100. I tow a 1200LB camp trailer. Tongue weight is probably only 250-300 lbs though.

In this pic, I have the shocks aired up so it normally sits about 2" lower.