Rear suspension build

[RickC63]

Hi guys, I'm new to your forum.
I'm building a 63' Chevy SWB BBack Window truck. Any body out there have an opinion on rear suspension choices. I've ordered a 4 link (parallel) bar set up but have not yet installed it. I met an old hotrodder that told be when I drive this thing with a parallel bar set up on winding roads it will break. He suggests the triangulated 4 bar. I'll be running a tubbed rear end with Mickey Thompson SR's.

[vin63]

Welcome! I am one of those who really likes the trailing arm suspension of these trucks. Was there a particular reason you are going with a 4-link (drag racing)? Did the previous owner of the truck get rid of the trailing arm suspension?

As far as a 4-link on the street, you'll be fine...just make sure you use a well-engineered track/panhard bar set up, or Watts link to keep the rear housing centered. Post some pics when you get a chance.

[Captainfab]

Welcome to the forum

I agree. The trailing arm with coils is hard to beat for a lot of different uses. There are a few forum members running some respectable times with the trailing arms.

As for your question on the parallel 4 bar, is it a true 4 link, with adjustable front mounting points, or is it a 4 bar, with fixed front mounts. As long as you have a good pandard bar, or other centering link, you will be fine.

If you haven't already, check out the 'Racing and High Performance' section here on the forum.

[RickC63]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the great responses.

I had also heard positive things about the GM trailing arms, but to run the big Mickey Thompsons I'll need more clearance as the trailing arms hang a little outside of the stock frame rails (which I don't want to alter). The 4bar that I ordered is from Full Tilt Hotrods in Colorado. The rod ends are adjustable, and have poly bushings. I will b installing a panhard bar and rear sway bar. I have already done my C notch in the frame, came out real clean. I used the CCP part. The truck will not b raced, just a Sunday afternoon driver w/the wife and Pomeranian.
Someone asked to post pictures in progress. I will if I can figure out how to. I'd love to see some of your trucks. Maybe that bad boy 63 swb w/the big Pontiac mill.

Rick
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[vin63]

How wide of a tire/wheel combination do you plan on running? I ask because I am running an 18" wide tire with the trailing arms.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by RickC63

Hi guys,

Thanks for the great responses.

I had also heard positive things about the GM trailing arms, but to run the big Mickey Thompsons I'll need more clearance as the trailing arms hang a little outside of the stock frame rails (which I don't want to alter). The 4bar that I ordered is from Full Tilt Hotrods in Colorado. The rod ends are adjustable, and have poly bushings. I will b installing a panhard bar and rear sway bar. I have already done my C notch in the frame, came out real clean. I used the CCP part. The truck will not b raced, just a Sunday afternoon driver w/the wife and Pomeranian.
Someone asked to post pictures in progress. I will if I can figure out how to. I'd love to see some of your trucks. Maybe that bad boy 63 swb w/the big Pontiac mill.

Rick

As Vin63 stated, there's no need to remove the truck-arms to fit wide rubber. I had 15x15" wheels w/31x18.5 Mickey T's under one of my trucks @ one time. Stock frame rails, stock truck-arms, modified tubs....

[twotons]

i am running the FACTORY trailing arms in my 66 chevy long bed truck with a dana 60, the truck does a 1.35 60 foot and runs in the mid nines at 140 +.

[RickC63]

Thanks for the response. Great pictures of what I knew would b a bad ass pu. So you're tucking those MT's under a non flared fender w/what looks like race/aftermarket pair of trailing arms? Can't quite see, you running coil overs or bags?

Rick
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[vin63]

Thanks. I'm running air springs since this is a street truck, and I needed some adjustability to clear some of the road hazards in my area. Yes, it's just a matter of backspacing...I'm running a pair of Hoosier Pro Street radials in a 31x18-16. The only thing I did to my rear fenders was stretch them to make the opening wider - more proportional to the taller diameter tire. I am running a tubular control arm since the pair that orginally came with the truck fell apart the first time I dismantled the suspension for the previous build up.

[RickC63]

That truck's got a great stance. I can see that your trailing arms connect to the axle inside the width of the frame rails. Mine, without measuring, are at least 5" outside the width of the frame. That's what I can see is the reason your wheels tuck in. What would you say is the distance between your inner tire sidwall and the frame?

Rick
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[vin63]

Originally Posted by RickC63

That truck's got a great stance. I can see that your trailing arms connect to the axle inside the width of the frame rails. Mine, without measuring, are at least 5" outside the width of the frame. That's what I can see is the reason your wheels tuck in. What would you say is the distance between your inner tire sidwall and the frame?

Rick

My trailing arms are mounted in the stock/factory location...note the previous photos of my rear frame and where the U-bolt is positioned on the rearend housing (outside of the frame), and the back edge of the trailing arm. Here's a close up:

[SCOTI]

The main thing truck-arms will limit vs a 4-link (w/no other modifications) is back-spacing of the wheels since the 4-link bars can be mounted inside the frame.

The truck arm set-up allows for similar sized tires in a more street friendly arrangement because the springs & suspension arms are farther outboard for improved stability.

[RickC63]

Thanks for the help guys. Looks like what you're telling me is that the trailing arms, which ride outside of the frame rails, will end up tucked inside the wheel. Thanks for the pictures Vin. What do you use to take pictures and get them posted here?
Looks like I'm not barking up the wrong tree completely, by going the 4link route. I'm looking forward to the challenge actually. Is that a sway bar you've fabbed up that attatches to the axle housing and then on to the frame rail?

Rick
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[49studebaker]

I would like to run Chevy trailing arms on a narrowed twelve bolt, both off the same donor vehicle, a 70's Chevy 1/2 ton. It will be going on my tubbed Studebaker. Would I have problems if I moved the trailing arms in a few inches and then shortened the distance between the point up front where they attach? Basically shortening the arms a few inches?