New here :-) Questions about my 54 truck

[Rudoo]

Hi, my name is Jonna. I just bought a 54 truck. I have been wanting one. I am not a mechanic (and neither is my husband) so I hope I didn't get in over my head. I am not looking to fully restore it to show quality. I actualy like the distressed look I just wanted a truck that worked and then I could enjoy it and work on it as I could. I took the truck up to a shop today to have them look it over and tell me what needed to be fixed first. One main concern of mine was to get the brake lights working. They found I have 2 fuel line leaks and should replace the fuel line and drain gas, because it is old. Also need new brake hose and brake master cylinder. They tried to figure out what the problem was with the brake lights. When the headlights are on, I have tail lights. The turn signals work sometimes. Where do I start to find out whats wrong? Could it just be bulbs? Or is it wiring? Engine is original and 6 volt battery. Thanks for any help

[swizzlestick]

congrats on the new truck. as for your brake lights i dont think anyone can tell you the problem without seeing the truck in person but ill try to give you some basic tips. not sure if those are dual bulb tail lights but you said you have tail lights when headlights are on so if those are single bulb than its not the bulbs. if its a duel bulb than it could be the brake bulbs and thats worth a try if your getting power to the sockets. if no power to bulbs then find brake switch (somewhere on brake pedal i assume) and check power into switch and power out of switch when activated. if power goes in and doesnt come out then switch is bad. if power comes out of switch and never reaches rear check wiring to rear. if no power to switch find out where power comes from and find out why its not going to switch. anything such as broke wires, corrosion, or low input voltage can cause electrical problems. and remember you always need power,load(bulb),and ground to complete a circuit. so get a test light and multimeter and have fun! wiring of this type is not complex just find a start point and trace the wiring from power source to load and back to ground. hope that helps!

[Rudoo]

Thank you! My dad is going to help me with this, so I am going to show him this tomorrow!

[mr48chev]

Welcome and hopefully congratulations on getting the 54. The brake light switch should be next to the brake pedal arm on the firewall under the hood and look something like the one in this link. http://www.bobschevytrucks.com/1942-...ine-dr136.html

If you don't already have one pick up a good 6/12 volt test light at the auto parts store or Sears. It should look like an ice pick with a light in it and have a cord with a clamp on the end. Decent ones are usually 10 to 15 dollars but they are invaluable when working on electric circuit issues on old trucks.

One thing that is pretty universal on old pickups is that there is usually a snakes nest of wires near the back of the truck where different people have tied in trailer lights. It's best to check that and remove anything that isn't neat and orderly that obviously isn't part of the wiring to the tail lights and stop lights.

[Spitshineschwinn]

[QUOTE=mr48chev;5044651]Welcome and hopefully congratulations on getting the 54. The brake light switch should be next to the brake pedal arm on the firewall under the hood and look something like the one in this link. http://www.bobschevytrucks.com/1942-...ine-dr136.html

Newbie here also, with the same problem - except I have zero lights in the rear. How is the electrical connection made to the two prongs on the stop light switch?

[OrrieG]

Welcome, to the hobby. I taught both my daughters auto mechanics as they grew up. We restored a 67 Mustang together when they were in high school. My style was the same way I learned, I'll show you once, then you do it. Stuck with the older daughter, she is a decent mechanic. Youngest prefers new cars but has the knowledge that shops can't put one over on her.

Electrical is frustrating at best but really pretty simple. Like other said get a good tester. I have the probe and a good multimeter (I prefer analog sweep arm to digital). Start at the back and see if you have power. If you do and replacing the bulb does not help check to make sure the housing is grounding ok. If not trace the wire forward looking for obvious problems (broken wires, rubs through to frame). If you find splices check for power to your meter. Eventually you will get to the stop switch. One side should be hot, the other hot when the switch closes (pedal down). Check the connections they should be a snug fit with clean terminals. If you don't have power to the switch then keep tracing. Off my memory I can't tell you if the power comes from the light switch or some other source. Google this site or the net and you will find a wiring diagram. Also, a good source of information for stock trucks is Stovebolts.com especially if you are going to keep it 6v.

[mr48chev]

Here is a link to older Chevrolet wiring diagrams http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...ring/index.htm Scroll down to the appropriate one and open it.

Once you get the right diagram open you can click on it and expand it. It's too big for my 15 inch screen but by moving it around you can see where the circuits start and end and what components are in them. I'd try to print a copy or two off to use out in the garage.

Everyone has his own methods for testing electrical circuits. While Orrie's works fine this time around I'd rather see you start at the top and check your way down the system.

Check the fuse box/block to make sure that the fuses are there and that they are good. Check across the stop light fuse and tail light fuse with a test light to make sure that the fuses are making connection.

The stop light wire should be an 18 gage orange wire that runs down to the switch. Check for power on the orange wire side. Have a helper push the brake pedal down or use something between the pedal and the seat to hold it down while you test the switch and further along the system.

Check along the wire for taped up sections that shouldn't have tape, wire connectors and or scabbed on wiring for things like trailer lights. There are also some factory connections that may be corroded or unplugged especially if someone started working on it and quit

[Spitshineschwinn]

Thanks guys. I should mention that my truck is a 59 Chevy LWB Fleetside. I was told that this truck does not have a fusebox, and I haven't been able to locate one. The orange wire is hot when the lights are turned off, it goes dead when the lights are turned on - just the opposite of what it should be! I'm a pretty fair shade tree mechanic, but electrical/wiring problems are a different ball game. Thanks for the diagrams, I'll print one and give it another go when I get time and the weather permits. I'll also post a pic or two of "Ole Blue" when I can.

[LDO]

Rudoo
I am stationed in pensacola, not far from. I can help you and your husband get the bugs worked out of your truck if you like.
Sent you a pm with my info.
Let me know how I can help.
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