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08-28-2003, 10:23 AM | #1 |
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Points/condenser Question
how easy is it to change the points and condenser in a 69 truck with a v8.
What are the basic steps to accomplishing this? Thanks David
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1969 K10 Custom 10 1997 Z71 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2006 King Ranch 1980 Wife |
08-28-2003, 10:30 AM | #2 |
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I did it on my 72, but it should be the same for a '69. Pull the cap and rotor off. There should be 2 screws holding the plate down with the points and condeser on it. Loosen them(not remove), disconnect the single wire, and pull the plate out. Pretty much self explainitory from there on.
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1972 C10 1972 C20 |
08-28-2003, 10:53 AM | #3 |
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There's a bit more to it than that. Yes, physically replacing them goes something like that, but you have to remember to:
1. Use the lube that comes with the new points to lube the cam on the distributor, and... 2. Use whatever lube you have left to put it behind the cam block on the points so it can self-lube over time. Once that's done, and you have them installed on the distributor you have to gap them: 1. Place the cam block on the points on the high point on the cam on the distributor so that the contacts are open (pull the lead from the coil to the distributor and bump the starter, or turn the engine by hand). 2. Use a feeler guage that has a 90 degree tip, or make one, or use something that is the appropriate thickness (.018 - .019 in). Place this between the contacts, and turn the screw on the points until the gap is correct. 3. Put the dist. cap back on, connect the coil, and connect a dwell meter (black should go to - on battery, and red/green should go to - on coil). Start the engine and let it get to operating temp. Check the dwell - it should be between 29 and 31 degrees (set it to the lower so as the points wear the gap will get bigger but still be within limits). 4. If it needs to be adjusted then open the little door on the distributor cap and turn the screw until the dwell is correct. You can do it by sound if you turn the screw until the engine starts missing, then back it off 1/2 turn, but I prefer to get it precise with a meter. Once you're done pull the meter off the engine. 5. Re-time your engine to make sure you have enough advance. Use an inductive timing light, and disconnect the vacuum advance from the carb to the distributor and block it off with a screw or something. Connect your light (red to + of battery, black to good ground, and clip on #1 plug wire), and point it at the balancer and indicator. The mark should be somewhere on the indicator between 10 and 14 degrees depending on your carb, heads, and cam. I have mine set to 14 degrees (last mark on the indicator). That gives me good response on the throttle, and good idle, but isn't too advanced to start bogging down at WOT). Have fun!
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
08-28-2003, 11:06 AM | #4 |
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TTT
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08-28-2003, 11:08 AM | #5 |
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Thanks guys,
I'll print off this post and use it as a "how to" This board is awesome Thanks again David
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1969 K10 Custom 10 1997 Z71 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2006 King Ranch 1980 Wife |
08-28-2003, 11:14 AM | #6 |
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I'll stick it in the FAQ board too.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
08-28-2003, 11:24 AM | #7 |
CCRider
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
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Buy a good set of replacement points!!!!!!!!!!!!! Offbrands are often bad right out of the box. You can't go wrong with delco or blue point
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72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS |
08-28-2003, 11:27 AM | #8 |
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Put in an HEI..Problem solved
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08-28-2003, 11:38 AM | #9 |
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Amen to that
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08-28-2003, 11:41 AM | #10 |
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I had a 63 impala that was 100% original and because of that I didn't want to put an HEI in it. Everytime I drove it I had a new set of points in the glove box, you never know when your luck will run out.
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08-28-2003, 11:41 AM | #11 |
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The problem with hei and this truck is that this truck is a 69 with only 76000 miles, and is all orginal and everything works. Just tring to keep it as stock as possible.
David
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1969 K10 Custom 10 1997 Z71 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2006 King Ranch 1980 Wife |
08-28-2003, 12:01 PM | #12 |
Half a bubble off!
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Stock is cool, but points suck. I'm with Phillip on this one. HEI is so much better, in every aspect.
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Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads. |
08-28-2003, 12:11 PM | #13 |
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Pertronix??
Doesn't Pertronix make an electronic ignition system to replace the points/condenser set-up? I know you can get 'em for Fords (and others) but never looked for my '69, cause I'm running an HEI. I changed enough points/condensers in my earlier years while working in a shop. I don't miss it.
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Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
08-28-2003, 12:13 PM | #14 |
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I use Accel high perf. points. I like them a lot better than the standard stock replacements.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
08-28-2003, 12:19 PM | #15 |
1969 Custom 30 wrecker
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pottsville, Pa
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There's nothing wrong with using points. Everybody thinks you have to automatically add HEI to every single car/truck. If you like HEI, use it but nothing wrong with keeping points if you prefer. If properly installed and they are not getting excess voltage, they will work perfectly.
BTW, carrying a spare module for those who use HEI is just as important as carrying a spare set of points for others. Works both ways. I've never had a set of points leave me standed. Can't say the same with HEI.
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Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10 |
08-28-2003, 12:38 PM | #16 |
Formerly yellow72custom
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Location: Austin, TX
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If you want it too look original...go with the Pertronix Ignitor II setup....should work as good as HEI plus it would look stock. As far as the original thing goes....just keep your stock points dizzy and put it back in if you want to sell the truck as "original: later .
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg |
08-28-2003, 12:54 PM | #17 |
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COBALT's description is a good one (and sure brings back memories), but we ought to mention (since no one has) that there is a rotor in there, too.
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
08-28-2003, 01:44 PM | #18 |
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Ah rotor shmotor. Who needs one....
The only other thing you gotta remember with points is that they need to be looked after. I noticed my truck starting to run a little rough at idle, so one day I checked the dwell: 35 degrees. The contacts are still good, but it opened up a bit, so it's time to screw them back down. ...then recheck the timing AGAIN as always. Now it runs like a top again. I like points because I'm used to them.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. Last edited by COBALT; 08-28-2003 at 01:46 PM. |
08-28-2003, 07:52 PM | #19 | |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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Re: Pertronix??
Quote:
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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08-29-2003, 03:37 PM | #20 |
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I ran points for 9 years; I've run an HEI unti for 10 years, now. I'm about to go back to points: I've have to swap HEI units twice and replace modules twice more (and the induction coil once more). I didn't do that much work to the old points unit.
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
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