U-joint like clang ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

eaglelox · 08-08-2003, 08:57 AM

This clang only happens when put into reverse and when I let off the accelerator after punching it. Low speeds only 35 mph and lower. The other part of the problem is there is a slight shift somewhere down under that I can barely feel when accelerating from a stop. I can’t find any bad u-joints, but it darn sounds like one. So im going to change all 5 u-joints and the 6 rear spring bushings. Don’t know if it will fix. Anybody out there had these kinds of problems. Thanks

TIMSPEED · 08-08-2003, 09:14 AM

I'm having EXACTLY that same problem! I've checked all my joints and crap...which leaves me stumped.

*67Fleetsidedream* · 08-08-2003, 03:25 PM

Carrier bearing? maybe... Or slack in the rear end.

71-longbed · 08-09-2003, 05:48 AM

same here ...been told its the diff. .... mine howls also too .... wanna get it fixed... howls more whe its cold then when its all warmed up ....i popped the cover and chaged the oil ...didnt see any visable damage ,,,,

its on my list of do's

**COBALT** · 08-11-2003, 12:54 PM

If any of you have a detroit locker like I have then you'll have play in your differential that you can't do anything about. It's normal I guess. I contacted both Randy's who installed it, and the manufacturer and they both say it's normal.

smokekiki · 08-12-2003, 10:03 AM

Check Your pinion nut.If it backs off,the rear will whine when slowing down and you will get a clunk when putting in reverse.It lets the rear get slack in it.

eaglelox · 08-14-2003, 09:50 AM

i was pokeing around and found that my trany mounts have soaked in trany fluid for who knowes how long, have turned into mushmellows and were sogy with oil. polypropelien here i come. or how ever you spell it

eaglelox · 08-17-2003, 09:44 AM

replaced trany mounts. shifting feeling is gone, clang almost gone. new mounts seemed to pull everything slightly farther down than before, to be expected. when i started it up, the engine was running ruff.reved it a few times and it didnt do again.seems tight, dont know how to splane it

71-longbed · 08-17-2003, 12:30 PM

how hard was it to change those mounts for the tranny eaglelox??

smokekiki
can you check the pinion nut from outside of the differential ??

thanks ... trying to find my howl

barn9 · 08-17-2003, 12:46 PM

Man am I glad to see this post, I thought it was just me! It's been driving me crazy trying to figure out what that noise is and where it is coming from, now I know a couple more things to check.

eaglelox · 08-19-2003, 08:29 AM

real easy. put a jack under the transfer. pop out two mount bolts. loosen two bolts on one side of cross member, drop the two on the other side. pull the old mounts and clean off all the dirt,install.

TIMSPEED · 08-19-2003, 04:23 PM

I have brand new polygraphite motor mounts, with a brand new rubber tranny mount (you NEVER want to have ALL poly bushings..the bellhousing will crack.) and I still can't figure out what's up...I figured it's slack due to the flip kit I have in the back...

Izzy · 08-19-2003, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TIMSPEED
I have brand new polygraphite motor mounts, with a brand new rubber tranny mount (you NEVER want to have ALL poly bushings..the bellhousing will crack.) and I still can't figure out what's up...I figured it's slack due to the flip kit I have in the back...

Did you install the flip saddle in the correct direction? The spring pin hole is normally offset.

smokekiki · 08-20-2003, 07:54 AM

The pinion nut is what holds the yoke on the rear for the driveshaft.When it gets loose it lets the pinion gear shaft move.It is a locknut,if it had been removed and reused it can backoff over time.You can drop the rear of the driveshaft and see if the yoke moves in and out.

**COBALT** · 08-20-2003, 01:16 PM

I use an Energy Suspensions transmission poly mount for my TH400. The only thing to worry about is making sure you space the mount correctly so you don't put extra unneeded pressure on the front U-joint and the carrier bearing if you have one.

When I went to replace mine there was a 1/4" spacer placed between the mount and the transmission tail housing. Since I couldn't re-use it I had to fab something up.

As for the pinion nut you have to drop the driveline out of the way to get to it, but that should be obvious.

eaglelox · 08-21-2003, 09:52 AM

is that why it seemed tight,

remy · 08-23-2003, 05:17 PM

i am also getting that sound... both reverse and drive do it... drives me crazy...

remy

eaglelox · 08-24-2003, 10:05 AM

hey colbalt i used the Energy Suspensions also. i felt it was tight. i am going to put some spacers in but how do i know how much to use.

bigd65 · 08-27-2003, 08:53 AM

i have the same problem, i think its in the rearend. i just lowered my idle enough so it wont clunk. seems to work. mine also did it when i slow rolled up to a stop light/stop sign and then just let off the gas and you could hear a very slight clunk. as i said i just lowered mu idle enough that it wouldnt hold that much pressure on it. no more clunk.

**COBALT** · 08-27-2003, 04:31 PM

Like I said I made up about 1/4" of space, but I made it up between the mount and the tailhousing on the transmission. I didn't put it between the mount and the crossmember.

gldevall · 08-29-2003, 04:30 PM

I HAD the same prob. It all stopped when I put the Eaton Posi in. The rear end was well worn out.

08-08-2003, 08:57 AM	#1
eaglelox Member Dude Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: reno,nv,usa Posts: 191	U-joint like clang ? This clang only happens when put into reverse and when I let off the accelerator after punching it. Low speeds only 35 mph and lower. The other part of the problem is there is a slight shift somewhere down under that I can barely feel when accelerating from a stop. I can’t find any bad u-joints, but it darn sounds like one. So im going to change all 5 u-joints and the 6 rear spring bushings. Don’t know if it will fix. Anybody out there had these kinds of problems. Thanks __________________ Steve 1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350 Eaglelox@Hotmail.com

08-08-2003, 09:14 AM	#2
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	I'm having EXACTLY that same problem! I've checked all my joints and crap...which leaves me stumped. __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

08-09-2003, 05:48 AM	#4
71-longbed Its Magically Delicious Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: oregon Posts: 2,398	same here ...been told its the diff. .... mine howls also too .... wanna get it fixed... howls more whe its cold then when its all warmed up ....i popped the cover and chaged the oil ...didnt see any visable damage ,,,, its on my list of do's __________________ 71 C10 LWB 350sbc -TH350 12 bolt 3.42 Posi Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew. My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend. Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold. Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee.

08-11-2003, 12:54 PM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	If any of you have a detroit locker like I have then you'll have play in your differential that you can't do anything about. It's normal I guess. I contacted both Randy's who installed it, and the manufacturer and they both say it's normal. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

08-12-2003, 10:03 AM	#6
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	Check Your pinion nut.If it backs off,the rear will whine when slowing down and you will get a clunk when putting in reverse.It lets the rear get slack in it. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

08-08-2003, 03:25 PM	#3
67Fleetsidedream Wiseass secured himself a BAN Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: MOON!!! Posts: 2,282	Carrier bearing? maybe... Or slack in the rear end.

08-14-2003, 09:50 AM	#7
eaglelox Member Dude Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: reno,nv,usa Posts: 191	i was pokeing around and found that my trany mounts have soaked in trany fluid for who knowes how long, have turned into mushmellows and were sogy with oil. polypropelien here i come. or how ever you spell it __________________ Steve 1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350 Eaglelox@Hotmail.com

08-17-2003, 09:44 AM	#8
eaglelox Member Dude Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: reno,nv,usa Posts: 191	replaced trany mounts. shifting feeling is gone, clang almost gone. new mounts seemed to pull everything slightly farther down than before, to be expected. when i started it up, the engine was running ruff.reved it a few times and it didnt do again.seems tight, dont know how to splane it __________________ Steve 1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350 Eaglelox@Hotmail.com

08-17-2003, 12:30 PM	#9
71-longbed Its Magically Delicious Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: oregon Posts: 2,398	how hard was it to change those mounts for the tranny eaglelox?? smokekiki can you check the pinion nut from outside of the differential ?? thanks ... trying to find my howl __________________ 71 C10 LWB 350sbc -TH350 12 bolt 3.42 Posi Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew. My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend. Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold. Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee.

08-17-2003, 12:46 PM	#10
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	Man am I glad to see this post, I thought it was just me! It's been driving me crazy trying to figure out what that noise is and where it is coming from, now I know a couple more things to check. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

08-19-2003, 08:29 AM	#11
eaglelox Member Dude Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: reno,nv,usa Posts: 191	real easy. put a jack under the transfer. pop out two mount bolts. loosen two bolts on one side of cross member, drop the two on the other side. pull the old mounts and clean off all the dirt,install. __________________ Steve 1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350 Eaglelox@Hotmail.com

08-19-2003, 04:23 PM	#12
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	I have brand new polygraphite motor mounts, with a brand new rubber tranny mount (you NEVER want to have ALL poly bushings..the bellhousing will crack.) and I still can't figure out what's up...I figured it's slack due to the flip kit I have in the back... __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

08-20-2003, 07:54 AM	#14
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	The pinion nut is what holds the yoke on the rear for the driveshaft.When it gets loose it lets the pinion gear shaft move.It is a locknut,if it had been removed and reused it can backoff over time.You can drop the rear of the driveshaft and see if the yoke moves in and out. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

08-20-2003, 01:16 PM	#15
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I use an Energy Suspensions transmission poly mount for my TH400. The only thing to worry about is making sure you space the mount correctly so you don't put extra unneeded pressure on the front U-joint and the carrier bearing if you have one. When I went to replace mine there was a 1/4" spacer placed between the mount and the transmission tail housing. Since I couldn't re-use it I had to fab something up. As for the pinion nut you have to drop the driveline out of the way to get to it, but that should be obvious. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

08-21-2003, 09:52 AM	#16
eaglelox Member Dude Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: reno,nv,usa Posts: 191	is that why it seemed tight, __________________ Steve 1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350 Eaglelox@Hotmail.com



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08-23-2003, 05:17 PM	#17
remy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: RT 40!!! maryland Posts: 35	huh... i am also getting that sound... both reverse and drive do it... drives me crazy... remy __________________ 83 k10 350 w/edelbrock 1904 Q-jet th400 4wd have a nice day...

08-24-2003, 10:05 AM	#18
eaglelox Member Dude Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: reno,nv,usa Posts: 191	hey colbalt i used the Energy Suspensions also. i felt it was tight. i am going to put some spacers in but how do i know how much to use. __________________ Steve 1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350 Eaglelox@Hotmail.com

08-27-2003, 08:53 AM	#19
bigd65 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Lake Jackson, TX. Posts: 1,930	i have the same problem, i think its in the rearend. i just lowered my idle enough so it wont clunk. seems to work. mine also did it when i slow rolled up to a stop light/stop sign and then just let off the gas and you could hear a very slight clunk. as i said i just lowered mu idle enough that it wouldnt hold that much pressure on it. no more clunk. __________________ 2004 Silverado Crewcab (Dark Spiral Gray)

08-27-2003, 04:31 PM	#20
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Like I said I made up about 1/4" of space, but I made it up between the mount and the tailhousing on the transmission. I didn't put it between the mount and the crossmember. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

08-29-2003, 04:30 PM	#21
gldevall Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Walker, LA Posts: 2,925	I HAD the same prob. It all stopped when I put the Eaton Posi in. The rear end was well worn out. __________________ Gary -1986 SWB: lowered 4/6, SOLD!!! -Best 1/4 mile: 14.51 @ 91.01 MPH -2001 Pewter Tahoe, billet grill, Corsa Sport Cat-back, K&N FIPK SOLD!!! -2004 Z-71 Extended cab with a flowmaster, BDS 6.5", 3" BL, 35x12.5x18 Trail Grapplers on Pro-Comp 18x9 wheels

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