The budget build

[Muffin77]

Well since I am in college this will have to be a budget. I am starting off good tho as I picked my 72 c10 outta the scrapyard for 300. Which it mainly needs is a whole bed and rockers maybe cab corners. I am ok with bodywork tho so its not a big deal to me. Now for my powerplant I picked up a whole 04 silverado for 600 off my friend who rolled it on its side. Just from the wheels to the drivers door and sliding a little bit that's it not a complete roll over. He started to sell stuff off of it as it doesn't have a bed and rear brake rotors but I drove it from his house to mine about 5 miles. The only thing that seems wrong is the guage cluste, rough idle. And rough idle. Now I was thinking about dropping the c10 on the silverado frame but it seems the make alot for the c10 suspension wise so I was thinking just swap the motor and tranny over. Which is a 4.8 auto. The goal for now is to have a daily for now but only im not sure of is fueling the motor. So I was wanting to see if you could give me points on how to keep it low price and how you fuel your ls swap.
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[BR3W CITY]

Don't bother with the frame/body swap, its not worth the money it would cost to do.
Keeping the cost low is a matter of knowing what you want to do, and what you need (specifically) to do it. No matter what, there are going to be unexpected expenses.
Motor mount adapter plates are the cheapest way to physically set it in there, and in many cases the tranny mounting is just a matter of redrilling some holes on the crossmember to adjust it. You can re use things like the radiator, power steering box, assuming they are in good shape.

Blazer tanks seem to be a cheap way to get a tank setup for fuel injection, and the 255lph generic pumps are popular. You'll need a supply and return line with that motor. Usually a combination of regular hard line (3/8 supply 5/16 return) and fuel injection rubber line will get you there pretty easily. Parts stores sell the quick disconnect fittings to get fuel to and from the rail.


Is the truck 2 or 4wd? If its 4wd I'd consider looking for a 2wd tranny because the tailshaft on the 4wd unit will cause problems.

[Muffin77]

both trucks are 2wd... I heard of the blazer tank. I dont know the years for the blazer and then does it mount inside still or does mount on the frame because i have thought about a fuel cell towards the back but I dont wana have to fill in the bed. If it mounts inside like the c10 I can keep it in there for now to keep cost down. I even thought of taking the tank from the silverado and mounting it to the frame like how it is in the silverado.

[BR3W CITY]

If your search blazer tanks they can show you how they are setup. Some guys just toss it in the bed to make things easier for a while. Get rid of the in cab fuel tank. I run a fuel cell and you can usually find them for a reasonable price. Its mounted between the rails at the far rear of my truck.

If the trucks are 2wd then you should just be able to slot or re drill holes on the cross member to fit it up. You'll need to get a driveshaft made to the right length and with the right ends on it. You can re work an existing harness, or have one made. If you have the whole truck you already have the harness to start. Since your PCM should already match your engine and trans you may not even NEED a reprogram just to start it, but I would suggest removing emissions components and at least getting a mail order tune.
Sounds like you have alot of what you need, and if your not looking to build a hp truck, you can probably finish your bare swap with less than 2k. Once you add bells and whistles etc, costs go up quick.

[usmcchevy]

Study the Swap cost FAQ and ask questions. I have $3k in my swap and if I do it again could probably come in under 2k. Keeping everything stock is a big step twoards keeping costs down, use the dorman plastic fuel line, a 87 (TBI) blazer tank with a high pressure in tank pump. That should get you a good start, oh and welcome to the dark side

Swap cost FAQ:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=473560

Couple budget builds:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...vy-pickup.html

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...de-1500-a.html

[Muffin77]

Could I swap the rear end too? That way I can pretty much have the whole silverado drive. I would also have rear discs then. The only thing im going to dislike is two sets of wheels tho. As im pretty sure the c10 is 5x5 and the silverado is 6x5.5.

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by Muffin77

Could I swap the rear end too? That way I can pretty much have the whole silverado drive. I would also have rear discs then. The only thing im going to dislike is two sets of wheels tho. As im pretty sure the c10 is 5x5 and the silverado is 6x5.5.

You could, but there is nothing to be gained IMHO unless the newer one has the gear ratio you want or posi. A 10 and 12 bolt are about the same in strength.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by usmcchevy

A 10 and 12 bolt are about the same in strength.

Tell that to all the guys snapping 10 bolt's in fbodies.

[usmcchevy]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Tell that to all the guys snapping 10 bolt's in fbodies.

True the 7.5" car/s10 10 bolt is weak, but the 8.5/8.6" truck 10 bolt isn't bad.

[Muffin77]

I was just thinking disk brakes and it already has the gear set for that motor and such. I guess I can sell the rear to help get back some of the money.

[Muffin77]

How about the truck accessory will they fit in the frame rails of the truck. I want to try to keep the ac.

[Clyde65]

If they dont you can put a high mount from Kwikperformance, but I think if you position your mounts right it would fit in the stock LS config.