Trouble removing U-Joints - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Jackie Mac · 12-21-2011, 10:57 AM

I have a 1986 Chevy c-10 305 v8, The u joints appear to be held in by a pin driven all the way through to the other side. before I try to drive these pins out, I want to make sure that I am doing it correctly. The rear joint also has a dust cap cover holder that holds one side of the cross together. Does anyone have experience with this set up? Thanks Much Joe

Mattman2010 · 12-21-2011, 11:01 AM

The "pin" is just plastic that was injected into the u-joint to keep it from coming apart. All you need to do is press the u-joint out, it will take a little more force to get it out but it should just shear the plastic.

67swb72klb · 12-21-2011, 11:05 AM

a little heat will melt that plastic pin then they come out easy or a small drill bit

Jackie Mac · 12-21-2011, 11:12 AM

Thanks much for the info. Have you seen the type of rear one that has a retaining clip on one side of the cross, apparently perhaps a saftey clip, to hold the caps on? Thanks again and merry christmas, This forum is the best!

Low Elco · 12-21-2011, 11:24 AM

Yup, pull tha clips, heat the end with a torch. That plastic will shoot out like its been extruded, and it stinks. Push out the caps quick while everything's hot. It'll come right out. Have fun!

lanconcj · 12-21-2011, 11:28 PM

It is just like they said. i sought the experts here myself a few months ago. Thanks again.

Telecasterjoey · 12-21-2011, 11:43 PM

Where was this post a few months ago lol, I figured it out after trying to punch out the "pin" Then it dawned on me! HEAT

jitteryguy · 12-21-2011, 11:50 PM

use cation while heat'n it up. sometimes it will shoot out and splatter, where glass's.

donut · 12-22-2011, 01:35 AM

And don't forget how you did it. My '03 Trailblazer had the same plastic setup, you will more than likely run into it again.

RastaRobb · 12-22-2011, 05:15 PM

When you replace them you will have the option of a sealed one like you are replacing, or one that comes with a grease zert. The sealed ones should be a lifetime warrenty, and a few bucks more.

78maliburat · 12-22-2011, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jitteryguy

use cation while heat'n it up. sometimes it will shoot out and splatter, where glass's.

X2

78maliburat · 12-22-2011, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rastarobb

when you replace them you will have the option of a sealed one like you are replacing, or one that comes with a grease zert. The sealed ones should be a lifetime warrenty, and a few bucks more.

it makes no sense because the grease ones are not as strong as the non grease

CaliDude76 · 12-23-2011, 09:58 PM

Here's a thread from when I had to replace mine..with factory sealed units..
Hope this helps

wow..it won't allow me to post the thread from another site..weird???

anyway...where the * is... it's suppose to be (g m s q u a r e b o d y . c o m).. then the rest of it..should take you to my thread
http://www.gm***************/forum/s...ead.php?t=1290

12-21-2011, 10:57 AM	#1
Jackie Mac Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lebanon Tn Posts: 39	Trouble removing U-Joints I have a 1986 Chevy c-10 305 v8, The u joints appear to be held in by a pin driven all the way through to the other side. before I try to drive these pins out, I want to make sure that I am doing it correctly. The rear joint also has a dust cap cover holder that holds one side of the cross together. Does anyone have experience with this set up? Thanks Much Joe

12-21-2011, 11:01 AM	#2
Mattman2010 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Pittsburg, KS Posts: 953	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints The "pin" is just plastic that was injected into the u-joint to keep it from coming apart. All you need to do is press the u-joint out, it will take a little more force to get it out but it should just shear the plastic. __________________ 1980 K10 - 6.2L Diesel/SM465/NP205 Build Thread 1984 K30 CC Dually - "The Tank" 12V Cummins/Nv4500/Np205/D60/D70HD 4" lift & 37's Build Thread 1960 C-60 Dump Truck Make it road worthy! Thread

12-21-2011, 11:05 AM	#3
67swb72klb Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: livingston co.mi Posts: 2,453	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints a little heat will melt that plastic pin then they come out easy or a small drill bit __________________ California 65 GTO---Texas 64 burb 283 ---Oklahoma 67 CST SWB BBW wood bed 327 2004r---New Mexico 72 k10 350 350 auto---Georga 72 short step project

12-21-2011, 11:12 AM	#4
Jackie Mac Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lebanon Tn Posts: 39	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints Thanks much for the info. Have you seen the type of rear one that has a retaining clip on one side of the cross, apparently perhaps a saftey clip, to hold the caps on? Thanks again and merry christmas, This forum is the best!

12-21-2011, 11:24 AM	#5
Low Elco Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Indep, MO Posts: 5,893	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints Yup, pull tha clips, heat the end with a torch. That plastic will shoot out like its been extruded, and it stinks. Push out the caps quick while everything's hot. It'll come right out. Have fun! __________________ Boppa's Old Yeller Truck Build, Old Yeller's New Heart! Project Buzz Bomb Flyin' Low!

12-21-2011, 11:28 PM	#6
lanconcj Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Anahuac Tx Posts: 111	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints It is just like they said. i sought the experts here myself a few months ago. Thanks again.

12-21-2011, 11:43 PM	#7
Telecasterjoey Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Ottawa ON Posts: 514	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints Where was this post a few months ago lol, I figured it out after trying to punch out the "pin" Then it dawned on me! HEAT

12-21-2011, 11:50 PM	#8
jitteryguy GoatLube Experss Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: clarksville, Tn. Posts: 1,337	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints use cation while heat'n it up. sometimes it will shoot out and splatter, where glass's. __________________ *Goat Lube Express*, locations in Qalat,Afghanistan & Clarksville, Tn. '87 R30 dually 454/TH400 '85 1/2 ton CCSB '92 S10 350/350 '84 MonteCarlo 383/PG/9"ford '78 Malibu wagon 350/350 '78 Cutlass (project family car) '96 S10 Jimmy (Moma's)

12-22-2011, 01:35 AM	#9
donut Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: S.C. Posts: 1,593	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints And don't forget how you did it. My '03 Trailblazer had the same plastic setup, you will more than likely run into it again. __________________ '86 C-30 dually, 454/tbh400 '73 K-20 350/350/205 (sold ) I'm kinda like duct tape- no real purpose, but handy to have around.

12-22-2011, 05:15 PM	#10
RastaRobb Registered User Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Sweet, ID Posts: 157	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints When you replace them you will have the option of a sealed one like you are replacing, or one that comes with a grease zert. The sealed ones should be a lifetime warrenty, and a few bucks more.

12-23-2011, 09:58 PM	#13
CaliDude76 All About the BOWTIE Join Date: May 2010 Location: Los Banos, California Posts: 436	Re: Trouble removing U-Joints Here's a thread from when I had to replace mine..with factory sealed units.. Hope this helps wow..it won't allow me to post the thread from another site..weird??? anyway...where the * is... it's suppose to be (g m s q u a r e b o d y . c o m).. then the rest of it..should take you to my thread http://www.gm*************/forum/s...ead.php?t=1290 __________________ CaliDude76 "... Being "SQUARE".. is where it's at...." Proverbs 15:30 .... "A Cheerful look brings joy to the heart, and good** news gives health to the bones..." Be exceedingly blessed today, my friends!... Last edited by CaliDude76; 12-23-2011 at 10:14 PM.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.