Suspension question..?

[gettmoneyy7]

Im planning on doing a 4 1/2 to 6 inch drop on my 1986 silverado. For the front i am using 2 1/2 drop spindles and 2 inch drop springs which will cost me 360 just for the front. for the rear i am planning on cutting out the rivets on the hangers and moving them up three inches and remounting them, also installing 2 inch drop shackles which will give me 5 inch i believe. To get the other inch was going to take out the bottom leaf spring. what do you guys think?? i appreciate your thoughts on it.?

[N2TRUX]

Thats a good plan, but I don't think you will get 3" from moving your hanger up. I believe the max you can gain is 2" and that will require you to trim the top of the hanger. Since your doing a budget drop, I suggest you cut one coil from the stock front spring rather than buy new ones.

[lolife99]

I would just do a flip kit in the rear and be done.

[gettmoneyy7]

the flip kit and cnotch kit for the rear was 240. and either way weither i buy new springs or cut a coil off the front stocks i have to get the front end relined right? also if i get 2 inches from the hangers and 2 from the shackles do you think i will get the other 2 by taking out a leaf? and appreicate the advice

[N2TRUX]

Spindles and springs combined will require an alignment regardless of the spring used. You can get 4ish from shackle/hanger. You can get another 3/4-1" from the overload. From there its a crap shoot by removing leaves. The rear are going to be the most prone to sagging, so there isn't a clear formula. You just pull springs till your happy and hope the ride isn't too soft.

I agree with LoLife that a flip is much better way to go.

[gettmoneyy7]

Altight thanks appreciate it.. I just went ahead and ordered a flip kit, cnotch and front
Spindles and going to cut the spring Like you said. Cutting one coil will give me the other 2inches right? And what's the best way to cut that cnotch out?
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gettmoneyy7

Altight thanks appreciate it.. I just went ahead and ordered a flip kit, cnotch and front
Spindles and going to cut the spring Like you said. Cutting one coil will give me the other 2inches right? And what's the best way to cut that cnotch out?

1-coil removed typically yields between 2-3" of drop depending on the truck.

For the c-notch, a plasma cutter is the quickest. Since many guys don't have one, you can use a cut off wheel in an angle grinder for the straight cuts & then a jig-saw or similar will cut the 'C' portion from the frame w/some decent blades (it won't be a fast cut, but it can be done).

If the c-notch has 'corners' vs being a piece of half pipe, drill out where each of the corners are to minimize the risk of future stress related cracks (harsh 90° cuts in the steel are prone to crack down the road).

[gettmoneyy7]

What do you think is better torching the springs or cuting them although in not exactly sure were to cut them exactly to get me the 2 inches. And also cutting that cnotch is safe for frame? And appreciate everyone's help
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gettmoneyy7

What do you think is better torching the springs or cuting them although in not exactly sure were to cut them exactly to get me the 2 inches. And also cutting that cnotch is safe for frame? And appreciate everyone's help

A cut-off wheel on an angle or die drinder is the preferred method for cutting coils. A torch can be used w/precision/care (dunk the portion of the coil not being cut under water in a bucket to minimize the heat affected zone). For 2-3", cut exactly 1 coil from the bottom of the spring. Lay the spring on it's side & make a reference mark where the last coil ends on the coil above it. Cut on the reference mark. Grind the cut area smooth so it doesn't gough the a-arm pocket.

Bolt-in C-notch kits are better vs just welding in a half piece of steel pipe. Either one does potentially weaken the frame especially when the notched area exceeds 1/2 the frame height. Boxing will help some but the only way to replace the strength is to increase the height of the frame rail whatever amount that's removed for the notch or reinforce the area immediately surrounding the c-notch (or both)....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457037

[gettmoneyy7]

Thanks appreciate it.. One
More question . With the flip kit can you remove the helper spring too because I have need for it? Will everything work okay if I do? It's a 1986 shortbed that will never have no weight in it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gettmoneyy7

Thanks appreciate it.. One
More question . With the flip kit can you remove the helper spring too because I have need for it? Will everything work okay if I do? It's a 1986 shortbed that will never have no weight in it.
Posted via Mobile Device

It can be removed.

[gettmoneyy7]

Thanks man.. I'm in the process
Of taking it out now
Posted via Mobile Device

[gettmoneyy7]

How bad does cutting the cnotch out Weaken the frame? Or does it at all?
Posted via Mobile Device

[hairlesshobo]

I'd love to see some pics of your square once you finish the drop. Maybe you can post some pics while you're working on it as well. I've got an '84 that I'm gonna lower one day too.

Sorry I can't answer your question about you're frame strength with c notch, wish I could.
Posted via Mobile Device

[gettmoneyy7]

Originally Posted by hairlesshobo

I'd love to see some pics of your square once you finish the drop. Maybe you can post some pics while you're working on it as well. I've got an '84 that I'm gonna lower one day too.

Sorry I can't answer your question about you're frame strength with c notch, wish I could.
Posted via Mobile Device

I'am going to start a build thread any day now, I've got a bunch done and have to go through pics, and I will post pics of the whole build

[sduckworth13]

If you drop it 5 inches go with a c-notch or your bed will get dented up really bad and you'll be praying you don't have to go over another bridge expansion joint.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

If you drop it 5 inches go with a c-notch or your bed will get dented up really bad and you'll be praying you don't have to go over another bridge expansion joint.

There are multiple factors that come into play when determining if the rear suspension is going to bottom out. If & when it does bottom out, it will do so against the frame rails if the truck does not have c-section clearance.

If something is hitting the bedfloor before c-sections, adding them will only make the situation worse.

[chevyrestoguy]

A C-section will gain you a little more clearance, but on drops over 6", the biggest issue becomes the clearance from the rear axle to the bed floor. There is a stiffener on the bottom side of the bed floor that can be trimmed for a slight bit of extra clearance. If you are going to go this direction, I have to stress the importance of using a bump stop. With the shock and springs disconnected, jack the rear axle up until it's about 1/2" from the bed floor. Now, measure the distance from the axle tube to the "high side" of the cut-out on your c-section. This is your safe, maximum axle travel. They make some really cool low-profile bump stops with threaded studs on the backside that work best for this application. Drill the "high side" on the c-section with a hole that will accept the stud for the bump stop, bolt it in, and you're done.

This method works if you're using factory frame rails. If you want maximum travel, with no issues, you'll have to go with a aftermarket notch kit and either cut the bed floor for clearance or raise the bed floor if you want a stock-looking floor.

Someday, I am going to do a mod for this issue that I have been kicking around for years. I would like to make a 12x12 square cut in the stock floor, and have it on a short vertical guidetrack with a bump pad underneath. When the rear end goes up high enough to contact the floor, the cushion on the rear end contacts the cushion on the bottom of the bedfloor section and raises it up. You could maintain a stock-looking bed floor and not have a worry about the rear end denting the floor on radically lowered vehicles.