Ignition Switch??

[stfinney]

LMC Truck looks to carry the same one I have, but better made I am sure. May try that and see. Less than $50 for the whole thing.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by azsnow

Thats a good idea if you have to go with the column mount. The issue with the key cylinders these days is that they are way to small for the hole.

I wonder if you could use a couple of washers (stainless on the visible side so it will polish and look like a bezel) to "squeeze" the dash hole. This assumes there is enough thread on the shaft that goes thru the dash.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by BIG CHEVY 3600

American Autowire ...
You will find what you are looking for on page 60 of their catalog. Cost $21.00 + shipping. You'll spend that much driving around looking.

I own this AAW switch. In a '55 2nd series (3100), the nut will not go down far enough to squeeze the sheet metal. It will need a spacer in the back.

[stfinney]

Here is my problem. It seems the epoxy that the PO used finally broke loose. Driving me nuts! It won't tighten up to anything, just flops around.

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

If some kind of adhesive is your only solution I would use JB Weld.

[azsnow]

Looks to me as if your welds or something broke and it came loose. I'm not sure as I am not very familiar with this era of truck. JB Weld= Bigger the blob, the better the job!

[DransportGarage]

I'm going to guess that the original switch wore out many years ago. Then a PO Rube-Goldberg'ed whatever is in there now. If the hole has been enlarged it will have to be welded up and re-drilled, which should not be a big deal.

The LMC catalog has a nice exploded view of the parts you would then need, which would be:

1) 36-0654 - Ignition Switch, V8 $54.95
2) 38-0008 - Bezel - Switch $ 5.95
3) 30-0880 - Retaining Nut $ 8.95

You should be able to use your old lock cylinder, but if not you'll need one of those too:

4) 36-0653 - Ign Lock Cyl w/ Keys $11.95

I'm assuming the Cameo switch is the same as any other 55-59 2nd series since LMC doesn't call out different switches for different models. I'm sure someone here can answer that if it hasn't been answered in this thread already.

Here's the link to the page in the catalog: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=69

Good Luck!
Bob

[stfinney]

There are notches that are visible, so I am assuming it is the original hole. Just not the right parts perhaps. I'll order new ones from LMC and hope for the best.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by stfinney

There are notches that are visible, so I am assuming it is the original hole. Just not the right parts perhaps. I'll order new ones from LMC and hope for the best.

I'd check the switch housing for dates, part numbers and even patent numbers. You can Google patent numbers (and part numbers). When you see the patent it will give you the date of the patent. If the date is newer than the truck, you have a replacement switch.

Let us know when you get it fixed!


Regards,
Sherlock Holmes

[mknittle]

That switch looks like it is out of a mid 60s truck I have one in a old cab

[stfinney]

Wow, that is definitely the wrong one then.

[OrrieG]

Looks to me like it was hogged out like mine, eliminating the stock notch. Don't know if JB Weld, which I am a big fan of, will work in this case it seems to work better at spreading out than adhereing to thin sheetmetal. Any solutions I would offer require some spot welding of reducing washers from the back. I have used the house electrical panel reducer bushing (look like washers with a recessed center) to get stuff to fit in to big of holes when you can get compression from both sides. With out seeing the rest of the switch it is hard to tell if that is viable or not.

[mknittle]

If it were mine I would get a stock switch from lmc or? And then figure out what would be the best way to make it look right.
One reason I don't worry too much about how i am going to do something is, I think of several ways to do them but I almost always do something different.
I don't know if that makes sense.