Dropping the 1 ton!

[tc4x4]

I think my last post was not clear, i have not torn into the truck yet, I'm just making a list of things I will need for when I start the project. Trying to get my ducks in a row you could say!

The truck rides great right now, It has really been taken care of by the original owner. I'm probably just going to keep the stock springs on and cut them.

As far as your last comment on a "stock" alignment, could you expand about what I would want to look out for. I'm assuming the truck will need an alignment when I am done with the drop?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

I think my last post was not clear, i have not torn into the truck yet, I'm just making a list of things I will need for when I start the project. Trying to get my ducks in a row you could say!

The truck rides great right now, It has really been taken care of by the original owner. I'm probably just going to keep the stock springs on and cut them.

As far as your last comment on a "stock" alignment, could you expand about what I would want to look out for. I'm assuming the truck will need an alignment when I am done with the drop?

Many 'generic' repair shops (Sears, Firestone, Goodyear,....) do alignments strictly by the book. If the book (well, computer now ) tells them it has to have +.5 camber, +3° caster, & +.125 toe, that's the only settings they'll go with.

An independent shop (or any shop that has a gearhead running the alignment equipment) knows the specs are just a reference point & that other settings can/do sometimes work better depending on the objective. I personally target about .5 ~.75 negative camber, as much caster as possible, & as little toe as possible.

As with anything, if a guy chooses to utilize different settings vs. what's spec'd, it will be @ his own risk & therefore he can't really expect standard warranty or pricing. That being said, I've only had 1 issue where the toe wasn't set to ideal & it did eat up a set of tires faster than I wanted. I had it re-checked (@ an addiditional expense to me) & corrected since everything else was still @ the same settings.

For more in depth info on 'alternative' alignment philosophies read this thread. This is the type of guy you want to find to do the alignment!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487363

[tc4x4]

I called over to No Limit and they have a 1'' 1/4 sway bar kit with poly bushings. Its $189. That is the beefiest they have. Seems like a reasonable price.

[kitsbeach]

How much space between the pumpkin and the bed once done.?

I've got a "heavy" 3/4 ton with the big rear differential.

I understand all the other bits...C-notch etc. I've lowered my '67 no probs.

I figure with a C-notch there'll be 2-3" between axle tube and the frame, which is fine for me.

But wondering if there'll be 2-3 from the pumpkin to the bed floor?

Planning 8-lug short bed conversion and a 6/8 drop to be cheap and different. I know I can change over to half ton stuff if I need to.

Couple pics to show the starting point.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

How much space between the pumpkin and the bed once done.?

I've got a "heavy" 3/4 ton with the big rear differential.

I understand all the other bits...C-notch etc. I've lowered my '67 no probs.

I figure with a C-notch there'll be 2-3" between axle tube and the frame, which is fine for me.

But wondering if there'll be 2-3 from the pumpkin to the bed floor?

Planning 8-lug short bed conversion to be cheap and different. I know I can change over to half ton stuff if I need to.

My dually had similar spacial dimensions @ the axle/frame rail & differental/floor. As you noted, the c-sections help @ the frame rail but you still lose clearance @ the differential/floor.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My dually had similar spacial dimensions @ the axle/frame rail & differental/floor. As you noted, the c-sections help @ the frame rail but you still lose clearance @ the differential/floor.

Thanks SCOTTI but did your diff hit the bed floor regularly?

I can handle a little bashing and banging occasionally on a big bump. But I don't really want continuous bottoming out. If there is less than 2-3 inches from the big 1 ton diff I might swap out to a half ton diff.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Thanks SCOTTI but did your diff hit the bed floor regularly?

I can handle a little bashing and banging occasionally on a big bump. But I don't really want continuous bottoming out. If there is less than 2-3 inches from the big 1 ton diff I might swap out to a half ton diff.

There was about 1" of clearance so it would have made contact more than desired.

My '74 1/2 ton had this same issue & would make contact more than I cared for. That was a driving factor in my decision of installing a beefier step-notch & raising the bed floor. The step-notch maintains the rail strength & the raised floor allows clearance. The truck is lower than it could have been w/no clearance issues when driving.