So....do you want gas struts on your barn doors?

[jeffg1010]

To read the original thread and discussion on this topic go here- LINK


I just finished mine. And after seeing how easy it was, I am ashamed at how long it took me to get it done. There is threads on here dedicated to putting gas struts on liftgates (clam shell doors), but I couldnt find anything with info on how to do it to barn doors, so here it is.

Part #'s and prices are at the very bottom of this post.

This project only takes about four steps and it will LITERALLY take you less than 30 minutes to do it. (if you had everything ready to go, you could have it done in 10)

Mine on the other hand, took about 4 weeks. But, I had to learn a few things and find the right parts to use. SO, you can learn from my experience.

So... I have a '70 Burb with the factory sliding mechanisms that hold the doors open. I've gotta say... I've hated these things from day 1. The first scratch I put on my Burb after it was painted was on the barn doors. I had them open and a big wind came along... slammed the right one first and then the left. (the opposite of how they are supposed to close) and it nearly gave me a heart attack when I saw my paint get screwed up. BUT OH WELL... old news.

So...
STEP 1: Remove those old sliding mechanisms. Its simple. You need a medium sized Phillips screwdriver. There is 2 screws on each end (4 per slide-8 total)







STEP 2: Install the 10 mm ball stud x 1/4-20 male thread Ball Studs onto the door and into the roof of the Burb. You can get these from Amazon.com Part Number : BS-142P6
I've looked everywhere and they are TOUGH to find. Unfortunately, I bought the wrong thread size initially from McMaster/Carr. I just had my dad machine them down to 1/4-20. I will tell you ... McMaster-Carr does not sell these in 10mm- 1/4-20... (I checked)

You will use the existing holes so there is NOTHING to drill or tap. On the door you use the only hole on the top of the door and on the top of the door frame (underside of the interior roof), you will use the holes CLOSEST to the center on both sides. Tighten the ball studs until they are seated flush.





an action shot of my mad ratchetin' skills



STEP 3: Install the gas struts. I used MONROE Part # 901460 Universal Lift Support; 23 Actual Ctr. To Ctr. Extended Length; 40 lbs. Force; This is a UNIVERSAL lift support which will save you a TON of cash. The 40 lbs wont spring the door open when you pop them open, but it is MORE than enough to open it.






They literally pop right on. I read somewhere that you need to have the skinny part of the strut (or shaft) near the bottom, so the larger part (housing) can lube it everytime it opens and closes.





VIDEO
http://s213.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=25506ea0.mp4




STEP 4: Your done. Have a beer and kiss those sliding mechanisms "GOODBYE!"





RockAuto.com
MONROE Part # 901460 Universal Lift Support; 23 Actual Ctr. To Ctr. Extended Length; 40 lbs. Force; Universal Lift Support
2 of these:
Price $13.48 x2 = 26.96
Amazon.com
10MM Ball Stud with 1/4-20 threads for Gas Spring/Prop/Strut (6 Pack)
by API
Part Number : BS-142P6
You need 4, but they come in a pack of 6
Price: $10.75

Total price for this project 37.71+ shipping

BY THE WAY... for anyone reading this thread that is considering doing the same thing to a liftgate/tailgate combo. That thread exists too...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=220511
thanks to Hart Rod...

In Hart Rod's clam shell gas strut conversion thread, he noted the heavier metal liftgate needed a bit more strength to lift his gate. He used struts from a Volvo I think. But when you get vehicle specific struts, they are about double in price. These are universal, so they are cheap.