IR 5HP air compressor pump knocking.

[Dunenutt]

The knock may have been the crud piled on top. If there is no slop in the rod or wrist pin, hone it, new rings, lap the head, new valves, and run it.

[RanchFlyer]

1. If the wrist pin is good on that LP piston RUN it.
2. I have never heard sheaves knock in any way.
3. If I had to guess that machine has been running car motor oil. Just a guess though. That crud looks to be carbon from mineral oil to me.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by RanchFlyer

1. If the wrist pin is good on that LP piston RUN it.
2. I have never heard sheaves knock in any way.
3. If I had to guess that machine has been running car motor oil. Just a guess though. That crud looks to be carbon from mineral oil to me.

Thanks, the wrist pin is in good shape, as I said before my friend was looking and he said he could not find anything wrong but we'll get the crank polished and put it back together and run it with synthetic compressor oil.

Tri5

[L&L70]

Any updates? I have been watching this cause I just picked up single stage 80 gallon with no motor. I guess the emersons were junk motors. Not to hijack, but could you post a picture of the spec plate on the motor? Or just let me know the model number, rpm, amps, base type ect... Thanks Alot

[truckdude239]

L&l what brand is the tank? Do you have a picture of it maybe we can help ya

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by L&L70

Any updates? I have been watching this cause I just picked up single stage 80 gallon with no motor. I guess the emersons were junk motors. Not to hijack, but could you post a picture of the spec plate on the motor? Or just let me know the model number, rpm, amps, base type ect... Thanks Alot

I can take some pics of the spec plate when I get home and post.

Tri5

[L&L70]

Yes its a ingersoll rand 80 gallon single stage 135 psi. Model number SS5N5. My pump only operates at 1000 rpm where Tri5's dual stage operates at 1600 rpm. That should only be a difference in pullys, most likely the same motor. Just looking to varify as motors for that hp seem to be expensive. I only have $200 invested in the pump and tank so I still will come out on top after the motor purchase. Thanks guys

Matt

[RanchFlyer]

Matt start another thread and I can help with some more motor info. Just to fair to Tri 5

[Tri5Nerd]

Well today I was finally able to get to my friend and get the pump put back together. He pull the old bearings off and replaced with the new ones and polished the crank. Looking at the rebuild kit I noticed that the valve kit was a little different but I followed the instructions they provided. It took about 2 hours to put it back, I didn't need to use a ring compressor tool because it cyclinders has a bevel at the bottom to have the piston slide in.
It looks like the original issue was with the reed valves pins came loose due to the head loosening and scaring the pistons a little but not doing any real damage to the piston, so now i need to get some syntechic oil and put it back on the tank. I have almost all the parts available to reuse if needed, hopefully I will never need to do it again. I have the instructions and can share them if needed, I just have to scan and save them.

Tri5

[Tri5Nerd]

Got it running now, but mow the pressure switch is leaking air so I'll take that off and try to fix or buy a new one.

Tri5

[RanchFlyer]

Tri Five glad to see it going again. Congrats on doing it yourself. As far as a leak at the P Switch. Be sure to check the check valve where the discharge line goes into the tank. The P Switch is supposed to bleed off the air in the compressor pump after the machine shuts off. When the check valve fails, the P switch will bleed air constantly. I have sold many switches to only have people come back complaining that the new one "leaks too".

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by RanchFlyer

Tri Five glad to see it going again. Congrats on doing it yourself. As far as a leak at the P Switch. Be sure to check the check valve where the discharge line goes into the tank. The P Switch is supposed to bleed off the air in the compressor pump after the machine shuts off. When the check valve fails, the P switch will bleed air constantly. I have sold many switches to only have people come back complaining that the new one "leaks too".

Good to know but it's leaking continuously, so I took it off and cleaned it up, it was leaking from the diaphram/gasket, so I tighten the 4 screws in the bottom of the P switch and reinstall but ran out of time before I could test it. I'll test it tomorrow to see if that corrected the leak.