Issues with driveshaft

[oldtinrods]

Hey there guys... I am having issues with a driveshaft after swapping rears and adding lowering blocks. The truck is a 70 with a 12 bolt and I removed the 12 bolt and swapped in a 68 c10 rear axle and added 2" lowering blocks. I am literally stumped as to why the driveshaft will not go in. I have the shaft crammed into the carrier bearing as far as it will go and cannot get the ujoint into the yoke. Anyone run into issues like this before?

Thank you!
-Ronnie

[cdowns]

do you have lowering sprigs in addition to the blocks?? if the answer is yes then you need to have the driveshaft shortened

[oldtinrods]

It has the springs that were in the truck when I purchased it. The truck didn't look lowered a bit prior to putting in the blocks, but I just noticed that 2 coils are together like a collapsed spring on each side..

[cdowns]

from the description of your springs sounds like they were heated to lower the truck

a bad thing and they could fail at any time without warning

if that is the case inspect front springs too b4 driving

[AustinScott]

Originally Posted by cdowns

from the description of your springs sounds like they were heated to lower the truck

a bad thing and they could fail at any time without warning

if that is the case inspect front springs too b4 driving

I would do a little bit of inspection on that ride before you drive it like you stole it!!

Also, if your drive shaft was already at or close to its limit between the rear end and the carrier.
I would inspect/replace that carrier, more than likely it has taken some hits/damage over its life & could break and leave you stranded...

you don't want your truck to look like mine did on the side of the highway with a broken drive shaft..





good luck!

[cstm68]

i was having a similar problem. mine was that i lowered the truck and had to cram the u jount in the the rear, that put to much pressure an the carrier and i was braking carrier mounts and the drive line fell out. i fixed this with a slip shaft driveline from a 63 long bed, had it shortened and ballanced and now its 100% good

[oldtinrods]

You guys seem to know your C10's. The truck has the same size tires front and rear and sat very level since I bought it rear springs appear to have been heated). The rear quickly starting leaking very badly and I didn't notice it in time. The outer wheel bearing seized and while changing the rear end (found a 12 bolt w/3:08 for cheaper that the axle shaft and bearing) I noticed lube perpendicular across the bottom of the bed like if was leaking from the pinion. The driveshaft was very tight removing before I decided to throw in the blocks.

Thanks guys! You have cleared up the partial mystery...

-Ronnie

[oldtinrods]

Originally Posted by AustinScott

I would do a little bit of inspection on that ride before you drive it like you stole it!!

Also, if your drive shaft was already at or close to its limit between the rear end and the carrier.
I would inspect/replace that carrier, more than likely it has taken some hits/damage over its life & could break and leave you stranded...

you don't want your truck to look like mine did on the side of the highway with a broken drive shaft..

The carrier looks brand new. I think it had been replaced shortly before me buying it.

[oldtinrods]

Thank you all for your help.. I dropped out the shaft and shortened it and all is good now..

-Ronnie

[AustinScott]

Originally Posted by oldtinrods

Thank you all for your help.. I dropped out the shaft and shortened it and all is good now..

-Ronnie

Nice! glad you got it worked out..