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01-20-2012, 10:30 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Midlothian, Texas
Posts: 193
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Hand polishing/waxing Q's
I hate doing this but last night I read for hours on here trying to get a grasp of what needs to be done. Lots of great info but it just confused me more.
I plan on detailing my truck, more than it ever has been. It is not a show truck by any stretch, just my driver. It has some clear coat peel in the bed rails, burn through on the rear fenders, bubbles of rust on the rockers and various "first truck" scratches/nicks on it. All of that to say, I can use much of a cutting agent and I will be doing this by hand. I guess I'm looking for a cleaning polish and then a wax. I want to attain that "WET" look the best I can. I have read good things about Malm's but I'm not sure. Should I use a clay bar then a good carnauba (Malms)? Pic of paint...keep in mind pics always make it look better: |
01-20-2012, 11:34 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Hand polishing/waxing Q's
claybar is well worth the effort in final finish
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
01-20-2012, 02:10 PM | #3 |
Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,036
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Re: Hand polishing/waxing Q's
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
01-20-2012, 02:58 PM | #4 |
Parts and more parts
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere
Posts: 6,821
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Re: Hand polishing/waxing Q's
The part that you put into your initial statement about the clearcoat peeling and the "burn through" lends to the fact that your efforts to get the "wet look" will be a probable impossibility. I was there many years ago on my 72 4X4 and the return of any kind of shine to my paint was not going to happen.
However if you want to pursue this, I would look at a product such as 3Ms "Finnessee It" to rub out the paint finish and give it a better finish all around. The clay bar is not a bad idea, but it has serious limitations on paint conditions such as that you described. A clay bar is made to take out small impurities in paint and get it clean to allow for a good wax. Hand rubbing is going to make you a better person than most of us, becasue it is a long and tiring process. If you know of someone with a buffer and the knowledge on the use of such a tool, then enlist their help. Once again the paint peeling and burn through willprobably defeat you in this effort. The paint that is under the clear coat or finsih coat as it may be, is usually dull and all the rubbing in the world will not make it as shiney as you would want it.
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Frank |
01-28-2012, 01:17 AM | #5 |
Tot Roddin'
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 24,461
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Re: Hand polishing/waxing Q's
Excellent info Frank.
Anyone else?
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-Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package) |
03-08-2012, 10:05 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: anamosa iowa
Posts: 60
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Re: Hand polishing/waxing Q's
When your surface is clean (claybar/buff/polished) flat and swirl free, it must be buried in glaze. Depth/clarity is achieved by Multi coats, both directions. Fully cured. Last: a quality sealant. Sealants far out last wax, period. Let them (yes multi again) cure over night. These steps will maximize your chances at a wet look. Other wise a 3-4 coat clear job over your existing paint and then it would be wet (!!) sanded and buffed to a high luster.
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