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03-06-2012, 11:17 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Highlands. California
Posts: 449
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power steering question
I am trying to convert to power steering on my 67.Is there a differance between 67 and 68-72 on the power steering gear box? I bought a power steering gear box and either I am just too tierd to get it in place or it dont fit.
I didnt think there was any differance.I used a 78 power steering box and pump on the 68 panel with no problem.
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67 short step 71 Custom |
03-06-2012, 11:23 PM | #2 |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO
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Re: power steering question
67's don't have the divot in the frame to accomodate a larger power steering box like the 68-72's. I had to notch my 67 to allow clearance for an 85 powersteering box. Some use spacers and have success, other don't like it. Try the spacers firsta nd them notch it if you don't like it.
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67 C10 Stepside 66 Mustang Coupe 99 Burb 2500 |
03-06-2012, 11:25 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Highlands. California
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Re: power steering question
Thanks, at least I`m not nuts. iT dOnt fiT.
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67 short step 71 Custom |
03-07-2012, 12:44 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wendell, Idaho
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Re: power steering question
A board member sent me the directions with pics on how to dimple the frame on a 67 so that a power steering box will fit, I never got around to doing it, but if you want I will PM you the directions and Pics I have.
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1969 4x4 Nothing beats a good rock drill and some dynamite |
03-07-2012, 10:01 AM | #5 |
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Location: Atlanta, Ga.
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Re: power steering question
Early 68's like mine didn't have a dimple in the frame.
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I don't think we get smarter as we get older. We just run out of Stupid things to do. |
03-10-2012, 01:29 PM | #6 |
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Location: Wendell, Idaho
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Re: power steering question
Ok I cant PM pics for some reason so to those that want the directions and pics for how to dimple a 67 frame hear ya go.
1. Take a look at pic (2WD Steerbox) note the dish inward > and the raised "pads" where the bolts connect the steering > gearbox to the frame. That is what your trying to > duplicate. > > Remove you old gearbox and locate the 2 plastic pins in the > column. Heat pins with torch and they will burn out or just > knock them out with a punch & hammer. > (SEE PIC 8) > > The only reason the pins are there is to break away in the > event of a head-on crash and collapse the column to keep > the wheel from crushing your chest cavity. The column will > now slide up & down enough to mate with the new box. > > 2. Look at your flat frame and the three holes that held > the man steering box, Take your NEW PS steering gearbox > with one bolt and bolt it up to the TOP REAR hole on the > frame. Use chalk to mark out the area that you will have to > dimple inward. SEE PIC (psteer5/chalk). > > Grind off the edge of the Rad/Core support mount to fit the > box to frame. (SEE PIC psteer 1 & 2) Remove the power > steering gearbox and single bolt. > > 3. Use a gas torch with a rosebud tip and heat up the area > you marked out in chalk. Heat to a dull red/orange, NOT > BRITE ORANGE. Take two large hammers, place one on the > frame heated area and hit with the other hammer, this will > give you better control of the impact area. Start small and > keep working at it, don't try to heat the whole thing at > once, work an area half the size of you palm and then move. > > SEE PIC (psteer4) > > 4. Once you have an area Dimpled inward large enough to fit > the PS gearbox go back and re-heat the entire area you > worked to a dull red. Then quench the area by slapping a > very wet rag on it, once the water boils/steams off the > steel hit it again with the watery rag, repeat this until > the frame is cool enough to touch by hand. By quenching the > steel this way you are putting temper back into the area. > If you cool it slow (air cooled) it will be very soft, > quench it to fast and it will be hard/brittle and prone to > cracks. Take your time cooling it, about 6-8 min is good > enough. > > 5. Using the TOP REAR bolt again, hang the PS gearbox back > on the frame. You will need spacers to fit the box, these > take the place of the raised pads. I cut some out of 3/8's > stock or used large washers. > > Now extend the column shaft down to the gearbox and bolt up > the rag joint (loose). Use a stick to hold up the bottom > end of the gearbox or another pair of hands helps too. Line > up the shaft/gearbox and mark the other 3 holes with > paint/chalk, scribe or whatever. > SEE PIC (psteer3). > > 6. Remove the PS gearbox again and drill your new holes to > mount the other 3 points to the frame, note they will be > off from you old holes that held on the old box. Use Grade > 8 Hardware/washers & locks to mount you new PS gearbox and > check the frame for cracking the first couple time you > drive it. If you have the time weld up the old holes and > grind them off to make it a little stronger. >
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1969 4x4 Nothing beats a good rock drill and some dynamite |
03-10-2012, 01:30 PM | #7 |
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Location: Wendell, Idaho
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Re: power steering question
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1969 4x4 Nothing beats a good rock drill and some dynamite |
03-10-2012, 01:31 PM | #8 |
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Location: Wendell, Idaho
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Re: power steering question
I never got around to actually doing this, as I went another route, BUT I was emailed this from a board member who did it and as you can see, it seems to have turned out ok
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1969 4x4 Nothing beats a good rock drill and some dynamite |
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