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03-14-2012, 11:51 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Lake Oklahoma
Posts: 181
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New door weather seals
I ordered new door weather seals from classic parts. I put them on today and you have to slam the door for them to latch. Is there something im doing wrong?
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03-14-2012, 12:25 PM | #2 |
Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,036
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Re: New door weather seals
They need time to "break in"
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
03-14-2012, 01:04 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Lake Oklahoma
Posts: 181
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Re: New door weather seals
but should I have to really slam it?
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03-14-2012, 01:11 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga TN
Posts: 6,214
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Re: New door weather seals
Someone may have adjusted the door latch at one point in the truck's life, pulling it in because the seals were bad maybe? Now that they are new the door latch is just that much tighter..
.. just a best guess.
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Chad 1967 C10 SWB - Project Savannah - 6.0/4L80 *Currently underway* 1968 C10 SWB - TOTY 2018, 50th Anniversary Tribute Project * Sold * Pride and Joy 1986 Silverado Short Fleet - Scarlet *Sold* 1985 Silverado Short Fleet *Sold* 2022 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted, Built 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted 2013 Honda Accord EX-L v6 Coupe 6spd (wife's ride) |
03-14-2012, 01:14 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Lake Oklahoma
Posts: 181
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Re: New door weather seals
I have actually had both doors off because I just repainted the truck. but the doors all line up with the body like they are suppose to. if I move them out then they will stick out from the body.
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03-14-2012, 02:02 PM | #6 |
Florida Edition
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fruitland Park, FL
Posts: 4,029
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Re: New door weather seals
It takes very minor changes to gain max effects on these doors. I ended up shimming my hinges off the cab with A/C compressor shims (very thin) and making very slight adjustments to the latch plates on the cab. It takes a while but if you work with small adjustments you will hit it.
I suggest you tape all the door edges with blue painters tape to protect the paint from getting chipped. I also used wd paint stirrers to set my panel gaps as I went along. Lets see if I have any pics...
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70 GMC Short Stepside "Rose"-An American Beauty: Factory 402/TH400, AM/FM, AC, Tilt, Tach, Buckets, Posi, PS, PB, 3-5 Drop, Complete Resto-Rod 67 C-20 Slant Back Wrecker "Mad Max" 67 C-10 Ratrod "Step-N-Wolf" 71 Serro Scotty Sportsman camper "Scotty" 97 LT1 Z28 "The Hornet" Link to more pics of "Rose" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...p?albumid=1684 Check out my "Cheap Tricks" thread and add to it if you can, lots of good info there. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489394 |
03-14-2012, 05:56 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,735
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Re: New door weather seals
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03-14-2012, 06:01 PM | #8 |
Newbee
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 1,406
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Re: New door weather seals
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03-14-2012, 07:10 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: sammamish, wa
Posts: 93
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Re: New door weather seals
My seals are slowly getting there after 9mths, the passenger will close nicely now and the drivers is getting easier, patience!
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03-14-2012, 07:18 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Laurens, SC
Posts: 182
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Re: New door weather seals
GMC Paul's snap on door seals are the way to go. Just put them on - no adjustments and the door shuts fine
Posted via Mobile Device
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03-14-2012, 08:18 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TN/VA
Posts: 6,388
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Re: New door weather seals
I agree with Dunenutt. I only use soffseal on all my builds and have never had any problems like that.
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03-14-2012, 10:10 PM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Iredell, Texas
Posts: 582
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Re: New door weather seals
I have the same problem but I think it was self induced on mine. They had already been replaced at some point in the trucks life so when I pulled the old ones off I put the glue on the flat outside of the raised rib (if that makes sense) just like the previous ones had been done. I have to slam the ever-living-hell out of them to get them to latch even with the striker plate adjusted completely out. I think both the previous installer and i got it wrong - I believe the glue should be on the rib. Where mine is glued is causing the rubber to have to fold up instead of compressing. I already pulled parts of it loose and it is better. I may be completely off base here... if someone knows where the glue should be I would appreciate the advice.
-Richard
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I may have too many Chevys... Is that possible? 68 c50 pickup build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=704713 |
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