help with suspension on 69 project

[low69chevy]

Well have been trying to do some research on what I should do on my 69 c10 as far as suspension. I will be running a 370 w/turbo on the street and see some strip action every once in a while, on the street I'm going to be running 20x12 on 345/25/20 back
20x8.5 on 285/30/20 front

just cant decide on what to do as far as suspension want the truck to sit low tucking about a 1'-1 1/2' truck will mostly be on the street at the strip I'll probly be running a 28.5-29.5 slicks.

I was thinking of eliminating the springs and installing coilovers behind the axle and making some adjustable trailing arm how do you guys think this would work or what would be the best option want the truck to hook the best possible but I know thats going to be hard on a 345/25/20 street tire.

On the front also what would be the best options?

Thanks in advance

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by low69chevy

Well have been trying to do some research on what I should do on my 69 c10 as far as suspension. I will be running a 370 w/turbo on the street and see some strip action every once in a while, on the street I'm going to be running 20x12 on 345/25/20 back
20x8.5 on 285/30/20 front

just cant decide on what to do as far as suspension want the truck to sit low tucking about a 1'-1 1/2' truck will mostly be on the street at the strip I'll probly be running a 28.5-29.5 slicks.

I was thinking of eliminating the springs and installing coilovers behind the axle and making some adjustable trailing arm how do you guys think this would work or what would be the best option want the truck to hook the best possible but I know thats going to be hard on a 345/25/20 street tire.

On the front also what would be the best options?

Thanks in advance

The truck-arm arrangement w/coil-overs should work well. As you suggested, you won't get any 'hook' for that turbo combo w/a 25 series sidewall. I don't think you'd even be able to using good track style 4-link set-up....

[low69chevy]

Thanks,Yeah I know the 25 sidewall is going to make it hard to hook but the billet wheels will mostly be for show when crusing in town hopefully with some 28.5-29.5 slicks on 15-16 wheels will really help her out.Dont want to push her real hard at the track being that I want it to be as reliable as a daily driver I'd be happy with a mid-low 11sec. pass on slicks

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by low69chevy

Thanks,Yeah I know the 25 sidewall is going to make it hard to hook but the billet wheels will mostly be for show when crusing in town hopefully with some 28.5-29.5 slicks on 15-16 wheels will really help her out.Dont want to push her real hard at the track being that I want it to be as reliable as a daily driver I'd be happy with a mid-low 11sec. pass on slicks

Keep in mind your proposed rear 'street' tire would be about 26.75" tall (alot shorter than the slick sizes mentioned.

[Pro Performance]

I think your best option will be installing a 4-link rear. It might take some creativity to make your own coil over mounts for the rear, but it can be done. I would suggest going with a universal 4 link kit, then modifying from there as needed.

You might have to run your links inside the frame to make clearance for the 345's.
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[low69chevy]

Thanks,Yeah scoti I know there's quite a difference in size but I'm pretty sure with the hptuners they can adjust the sizes and I know that's .where gears and other things come in to play.

I had thought about installing a 4 link it just a lot of people have told me if you don't get the adjustments right to hook and go straight it can become your worst nightmare tryin to adjust everything.

How hard would it be to adjust a 4link and what are you'll experience w/4links I've also heard they squeak with time is this true?
Thanks for the help
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by low69chevy

Thanks,Yeah scoti I know there's quite a difference in size but I'm pretty sure with the hptuners they can adjust the sizes and I know that's .where gears and other things come in to play.

I had thought about installing a 4 link it just a lot of people have told me if you don't get the adjustments right to hook and go straight it can become your worst nightmare tryin to adjust everything.

How hard would it be to adjust a 4link and what are you'll experience w/4links I've also heard they squeak with time is this true?
Thanks for the help
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Be honest here.... do you intend to adjust it or are you a set-it & forget-it type when it comes to suspension? Typically, those w/limited knowledge tend to not tweak; they're happy it's in & works.

If the intent is to set-it & forget it, the truck-arm coil-over approach would be easy enough.

[Pro Performance]

There are a lot of drag cars I have seen running a 4 link setup, usually the parellel type. I think it will hook fine with a parallel 4 link. As far as noise, just use quality bushings, such as Prothane, and with the right grease, will not make noise.
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[SCOTI]

Drag cars that hook using a 4-link w/diagonal centering link have more adjustment vs. the typical street car version (4-bar w/Panhard bar for centering). Common 'street' 4-bar set-ups can use urethane bushed or spherical rod-ends & typically only have adjustment for pinion.

Be sure to explain to the manufacturer what your intent is & what your combo is to get the ideal set-up if you opt for the 4-link/4-bar.

[Pro Performance]

You're right, I apologize. Yes, I would suggest going with a triangulated 4-link. Plus, this way you don't have to run a panhard bar, since the top 2 bars will keep the axle centered.

I was thinking triangulated, but typed parallel. Sorry. haha

[low69chevy]

Thanks for the help as far as the ride would it have a "stiff" ride. How would it ride on the street with the trailing arms and coilovers or 4 link w/coilovers which would have a better ride? On my 06 crew cab I got a 6/8 drop and rides perfect on the street for being as low as she is,and she hooks pretty good with the leaf springs ran a 13.1 first time I took her to the track on 22s and a 295/30/22 tires pretty sure she has a 12.5 on slicks and with the retune I got. Sorry for all the questions just want to research all my options before I start ordering parts. Thanks
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[SCOTI]

Coil-overs would ride about the same w/either link set-up w/the edge possibly going to the truck arm because of the 'link' length.
The 4-bar would yield less pinion change.
The truck arm would be easist to package (it's already there).

[low69chevy]

So if I keep the trailing arm system can I relocate the panhard bar and where would be the best place to relocate it so it won't be in the way for the coilovers ill be raising the bed floor about 3-4in so I can have more clearance between the diff. And the floor and so that way I have more travel between the tires and tubs.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by low69chevy

So if I keep the trailing arm system can I relocate the panhard bar and where would be the best place to relocate it so it won't be in the way for the coilovers ill be raising the bed floor about 3-4in so I can have more clearance between the diff. And the floor and so that way I have more travel between the tires and tubs.
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With a 12" wheel, you could still run the coil-overs outside the frame rail. I would look @ Porterbuilts truck arm set-up & see if he can do a CO off the end of the arm (I suggested this very scenario once upon a time when he & I were discussing the 'ultimate truck-arms').

By Keeping the CO's outside the frame, you get multiple benefits: increased stability (the farther outboard the springs, the more stable the the support offered), the Panhard bar remains in the OE location w/o issue (simplicity in packaging), & the exhaust still fits around where the OE Panhard bar is located. His Panhard bar also allows adjustments: the bar can be set parallel @ ride height & adjusted for better RC height.

Rob @ No Limits might have some suggestions on the use of CO's too. I would seek his wisdom as well....