I finally get to work on my 72- Help please

[Supertommy68]

After many years of foolishness, I finally came up with a little money to put into my 72 Cheyenne 10 Super 4x. I want to take on some of this work myself. I am mechanically inclined and learn fast, but am looking for any pointers.

I've had the truck since 1992. I bought it in real good condition, with all the stock stuff there. It had the 350, TH350 and a NP205 Transfer, with highway gears. I being a youngster started my foolishness by lifting it 4", and putting 35" mud tires under it. Naturally, this led to mudding, dents, rust, and the like, leaving most of the side moldings bashed beyond repair or stuck in trees along a narrow trail.
I had a dual exhaust put in it, and the pipes rubbed a hole in the tranny cooler lines, which led to transmission failure. Rather than rebuilding the stock, I opted to get a rebuilt one, so the stock tranny is gone.

Then the rear pinion sheared in half on the freeway, which heated up the 12-bolt pumpkin to glowing and pushed the pinion right through the case. The oil caught fire, which was quite a show in the early morning freeway rush-hour. Anyways, I had the hole fixed but the rear end was warped badly enough that I could never get it set up right again, so it went to the scrap yard.

But the worst was when I was experiencing motor problems. I hired a guy to get it running right and tuned. His bill was pretty high, and he just happened to be restoring a Cheyenne. Guess where my headliner, woodgrain glove box and cluster went?

Needless to say, this truck will never be a numbers-matching resto. But I want it to be a nice driver again, one that looks great and runs great. Since I pull a trailer, it also needs to be able to handle that. Last year, it was everything I could do to go 35 pulling my trailer up a hill. This is a 7000 lb trailer mind you.

What I would like to do is pull the thing down to the frame. I want to blast the frme to get rid of any rust and leftover mud. Then coat it with a real good product that will last a while. Not necessarily rubberized or "rhino" style, but something good. Then I want to go through the motor and drive train. What is the best way to get some more power and torque? I thought about the Edelbrock top-end kit but any suggestions? TH 350 OK or Turbo 400? I want to change to 3/4 ton running gear.

Most of the interior parts have been procured again already, some aftermarket and some stock.

Needs new fenders L&R, and R inner fender, battery box, R rocker panels. Bed sides can have dents pulled I thing. Bed needs coating. Also want to do an underbody coating of some sort. Will probably have it painted professionally. Where should I get the trim?

I am someone who has never done body work before, but am not afraid to try. I just need to know where to start, and any pointers. Anyone want to help me out?

[Tinkermc]

well I would not loose any sleep over that it is not a numbers matching truck. That will not get you home. I am on the east coast or I could come help you out some. Maybe you could hang out at a body shop for awhile. Ask a lot of questions

[brans72]

why not drop a 5.3 with 4l60e in it?

[Dingfodgy]

Welcome from not too far from ya'! Sounds like you have a good project...post up some pics when you can! Now on to your questions.

A good, long lasting coating for the frame and suspension would be powdercoat...but that may be cost prohibitive. For DIY sprayable- the key is thorough prep. Blast, clean, epoxy prime, clean, single stage polyurethane, clean, clean, clean (and dry).

Bodywork can be a chore...not difficult or some kind of voodoo, but mind-numbingly arduous. It takes for freakin' ever to get things straight and lookin' good. Patience is the trick. Find a panel that you intend to replace like a fender or something. Get yourself an air compressor, right angle die-grinder with 2" or 3" rol-loc pad and a bucket full of various grits of discs. Get a DA sander and a couple rolls of PSA paper for it, and a decent set of body hammers and dolly's. Strip your test panel down to bare metal and start experimenting with various hammering techniques.

For motorvation- man you have choices. I would think the 350 with a torquey cam and moderate carbueration would work. Of course a big-block or cummins diesel swap would be better. For towing I'd definately get the TH400 or upgrade to well built 700-R4 overdrive unit. Lastly, your best bang for the buck will be to ditch them highway gears and put some 4.10's in there. That'll help with the 35's and keep the revs up in the powerband.

I'm sure others with chime it with their opinions as well- so take everything that is said, stir in your thoughts and come up with a workable plan....good luck to ya'.

[Supertommy68]

Thanks all for the tips so far.
Brans72, I thought about dropping a different motor in it. But after already losing so many of my other parts, I am kind of attached to the motor thats there. I don't want to hurt its feelings or anything.

Tinkermc, I talked with a local shop here and he said he would do all the body if I did the frame and bed, plus the underbody. I don't know why he doesn't want to do the underbody or the bed. Seems like I would have to tear the thing down again after he was done so I could do a good job on the underbody, cause If I did that prior to body work I would be coating things that might get replaced. But talking to body guys is definitely a good idea.

Dingfodgy, I just happen to have a father-in-law that has a 71 GMC pickup with a totaled front end, including hood and fenders. I think I may see if I can cannibalize that thing for practice. I do have a small wire-feed welder (can I learn to use it might be the question). I also have grinders and sanders and stuff, might get a sandblaster from Eastwood or Harbor freight, bottom line I might have the perfect thing to practice on before I ruin my own.

Thanks again for the help. It gives me some more ambition to do this knowing there are guys that are around that don't mind sharing their smarts with people like me. I'll throw up some photos once I get going. Still need to finish clearing out a place to work before I get started.

[Supertommy68]

By the way, I did put in 3:73's a few years ago, after the original rear end blew up. It helped some, but still pretty gutless for towing.

[Tinkermc]

doing the frame part is not that hard.As seen on TV each section you should put masking tape on plastic zip lock bags and label on the tape. A wire wheel and a rattle can cleans up bolts nicely, paint tops of bolts by sticking them into cardboard to hold securely.