Cab removal and storage / moving around

[ctandc]

I’ve searched and searched, and I have a ton of threads saved, and have seen how many members here have built their own contraptions for removing the cab and also for storing / moving the cab around.

Since the first phase of my build involves the chassis / frame, once the engine is out I’ll be removing the cab. Because of space constraints, the cab will be stored outside.

What I planned on doing was using a homebuilt 4x4 and bracket setup, bolted to my engine hoist, to remove the cab. Since I’ll be storing the cab until the frame / chassis is done, and I’ll be storing outside, I planned on keeping the doors on. For simplicity sake of moving the cab, I figured that I could mark the hinge alignment, then remove both doors, then remove the cab. I had planned on leaving the rest of the interior intact.

Once the cab is on the dolly and in its resting place, I can put the doors back on. Keeping the cab weather tight.

Anyone see any issues with trying this?

Next up I’m planning on building a movable cart to hold the cab. This cart will need the big casters so that I can move it into my backyard for storage. I’ve seen many homebuilt carts here, and I figured on building mine to not only store and move the cab now, but be able to have the cab on this dolly when I start body work (welding / cutting etc).

Here’s a diagram of what I plan on building



I’ll put the big casters from Harbor freight on the bottom of each leg.

The dolly will be built out of pressure treated 4x4’s.

I’ll get the width dimensions before hand, so I can simply take some lag bolts and washers and actually bolt the cab to the dolly, using the cab to frame mounts, when we put it on. That way no worries about pushing it around the yard, storing it etc.

Any glaring holes in this plan?

[chevyguys]

I just used furniture dollys from harbor freight. Everything rolls around easy. When I needed to work on the bottom of the cab I just tilted it on it's back.

[61_FL_Apache]

Originally Posted by chevyguys

I just used furniture dollys from harbor freight. Everything rolls around easy. When I needed to work on the bottom of the cab I just tilted it on it's back.

This is what I was thinking too.

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by chevyguys

I just used furniture dollys from harbor freight. Everything rolls around easy. When I needed to work on the bottom of the cab I just tilted it on it's back.

Not sure the furniture dollys would work when I have to move the cab to my backyard in the grass / dirt.

[chevyguys]

I'm not sure how much you plan to work on the bottom of the cab but with your support structure being so large I would see that as an obstruction. I put my cab in the side yard (gravel) by just placing a sheet of plywood down to roll the cab on. I only needed to store it, so i moved it back there one time and back out another...

I thought about something like you were doing but it required me to lift the cab off the structure too many times to do work. I figured that would increase the possibility of damage to the cab. As I mentioned above, I just tilted the cab on its back to work on the underside, it's really not that heavy. One person can tilt it on its back (when it's empty)

[T2vigil]

I got lucky. The PO of my house left an old boat trailer out in the woods and he never came back to reclaim it. I put some junkyard wheels on it. Striped it of all boat stuff and fenders, cut off and relocated the tongue and now it is big enough to hold the cab and bed at the same time. I just hook it up to the lawn mower to move it around the back yard.

[72chevyrick]

parole officer ?

[1963c-10]

Previous owner

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by chevyguys

I'm not sure how much you plan to work on the bottom of the cab but with your support structure being so large I would see that as an obstruction. I put my cab in the side yard (gravel) by just placing a sheet of plywood down to roll the cab on. I only needed to store it, so i moved it back there one time and back out another...

I thought about something like you were doing but it required me to lift the cab off the structure too many times to do work. I figured that would increase the possibility of damage to the cab. As I mentioned above, I just tilted the cab on its back to work on the underside, it's really not that heavy. One person can tilt it on its back (when it's empty)

The dolly I've designed will just clear the length of the cab, and it actually uses the factory cab mount holes.

When I finally get to the bodywork (hopefully before I die) I'll likely just flip the cab over on it's back when I need access.

[64fleetside]

I just used two kid's Radio Flyer wagons, one under each rocker(got two kids). Used two creepers to move it around when it was in the shop.

[sprinter11r]

I bought two 18 x 30 furniture dollys at menards for $20 a piece and set under the rockers. as long as you are on concrete one person can roll it around and spin it on a dime. just push it right in the corner.

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

I just used two kid's Radio Flyer wagons, one under each rocker(got two kids). Used two creepers to move it around when it was in the shop.

Originally Posted by sprinter11r

I bought two 18 x 30 furniture dollys at menards for $20 a piece and set under the rockers. as long as you are on concrete one person can roll it around and spin it on a dime. just push it right in the corner.

Both great ideas, however I will have to move my cab over grass into my backyard for storage while I’m working on the chassis.

[RAYDAY]

i use a standard old free pallet with some casters bolted to it for storing/moving cabs around

[tazattitude]

Here is the one I made with 6 casters. Rolled around very easily.

I also put smaller casters on the end so when I wasn't using it, I could stand it up.

I used this throughout the complete process (bodywork, prime, paint).

When I was ready for the bottom, I rolled the cab onto the frontside and worked on it that way.

I called it my 'cab caddy'

[clemdaddy]

heres an old long bed frame with the ends turned down and steadied with bumper brackets. plenty of clearance to work on floors and you can mount and adjust doors.

this was in another thread about home-made shop tools... several good ideas in there for cab storage and moving...

[dj-66]

get two 8 ft landscape timbers or any 4x4 posts and put under the cab length wise from door to door, then just put 3 or 4 inch pvc pipe under the timbers so that you can roll it around in the grass or rock surfaces

[irhunter]

Originally Posted by dj-66

get two 8 ft landscape timbers or any 4x4 posts and put under the cab length wise from door to door, then just put 3 or 4 inch pvc pipe under the timbers so that you can roll it around in the grass or rock surfaces

I like ths idea. But, would still like to see other grass/gravel transport systems for cabs.

I also need help pulling the cab in the first place. I have a 4-door crew cab and would like to pull it with the glass intact. I would remove the doors. I want to do this outside on the grass.

Thanks,

Roy

[mjh1965]

Here's my short video of my truck cab removal

http://youtu.be/LxcuePYK-8Q

The only problem I had was loading it onto the trolley we made I wasn't able to push the trolley over the top of the engine hoists legs so I will increase the height of the legs so they go over the top of the hoists legs hope this helps
Martin

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611614

[irhunter]

Originally Posted by mjh1965

Here's my short video of my truck cab removal

http://youtu.be/LxcuePYK-8Q

The only problem I had was loading it onto the trolley we made I wasn't able to push the trolley over the top of the engine hoists legs so I will increase the height of the legs so they go over the top of the hoists legs hope this helps
Martin

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611614

Thanks. Yes, that's good to see. I have a hoist. But, what I don't have is a concrete surface to use the hoist on. Maybe I will build a sort of a trolly track to roll the hoist on away from the frame.

Roy

[rustbucket66]

I recommend pneumatic tires under the structure. They are easy to roll around, especially over gravel or uneven ground. They roll around nice in the shop too, and don't get stuck on hoses, cords, or little pieces of gravel. Clemdaddy's picture shows the kind that I used.

[1963chevyc20]

Dude. I get it it will be in grass/ dirt. Get waggon and cut the sides off and set the cab on it. Take 2 straps and strap er on and vwa la! You got transport and a Minnie flathead trailer when done.

[1963chevyc20]

Flat BED!

[bj383ss]

Only Advice I will give is make sure your hoist will clear underneath you dolly. I didn't think of this when I made mine and I had to remove one of the lower horizontal beams so I could get my hoist centered over the dolly. If you are using tall casters this shouldn't matter. My engine hoist came with 4 extra caster so I used those for my dolly.

Bret

[irhunter]

OK guys, thanks. I think I got it.

Big tires.
Plan so the dolly and hoist work together.

Roy

[kieth]

We just found a swb frame with front and rear ends in place for $100.00, put the body (all the body, front clip and bed) on the frame and rolled it around all over a gravel yard.......did the chasis work first then moved on to the parts a little at a time.......cost about $100.00...