Ignition switch

[JRE]

Quick Question. I'm fighting a no start problem in my 67 has a 350 out of a 86. After replacing cap rotor coil and module and still not getting any spark I'm thinking it might be the switch. Was wondering how it comes out of the dash. Any help is greatly appriciated

[scotts72heavyhalf]

I have a couple of them that work and are in great shape if you need to replace yours, to remove it first remove the ket, you will need to place a small wire, I use a paper chip into the little hole on the left side of the key, then push in and turn to the accessory position and the lock will come out. Next tap on the three notches on the bezel, counterclockwise to loosen it, then spin it off and the rest comes out from behind the dash, let me know if you need to look at one, its a bit tricky but easy once you have do it a few times.

Good luck

[JRE]

Thanks Scott I'll let you know tomorrow if I need oneof them.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by scotts72heavyhalf

I have a couple of them that work and are in great shape if you need to replace yours, to remove it first remove the ket, you will need to place a small wire, I use a paper chip into the little hole on the left side of the key, then push in and turn to the accessory position and the lock will come out. Next tap on the three notches on the bezel, counterclockwise to loosen it, then spin it off and the rest comes out from behind the dash, let me know if you need to look at one, its a bit tricky but easy once you have do it a few times.

Good luck

The lock cylinder will not come out if you do it that way... First off, 67's do not have an accessory position if they have the original switch in them. You also have to have the key in it to turn the lock cylinder.

FIRST, insert key and turn it to the left as far as it will go. THEN insert a wire, small allen wrench, or straightened paper clip (the large ones work best) into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder and "gently" depress the retainer pin. With the pin depressed turn the cylinder further to the left. After it starts turning you have to remove the wire from the hole or it will bind. After you have it turned to the left as far as it will go wiggle it a little as you pull on the key to remove the lock cylinder.

LockDoc

[scrunner]

What if you have tried all of the above, and you can't get the d**** thing out? Is there a way to just use a BFH and fix it all later? My key is so worn, it will barley turn to acc, and when it does it is completely by accident. Hep! I spent $50 getting a new matched key and lock set for all the doors and ignition and glove box, but can't use them. Getting frustrated with it.

Thanks!

Patrick

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by scrunner

What if you have tried all of the above, and you can't get the d**** thing out? Is there a way to just use a BFH and fix it all later? My key is so worn, it will barley turn to acc, and when it does it is completely by accident. Hep! I spent $50 getting a new matched key and lock set for all the doors and ignition and glove box, but can't use them. Getting frustrated with it.

Thanks!

Patrick

Pull the passengers door lock out and see if there is a code number on it. Here is a thread where I posted some info on it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=462981

Have a new key cut from the code number and it should work correctly. If you can't find a locksmith to cut a key by code in your area PM me.

LockDoc

[RenoKeene]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Pull the passengers door lock out and see if there is a code number on it. Here is a thread where I posted some info on it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=462981

Have a new key cut from the code number and it should work correctly. If you can't find a locksmith to cut a key by code in your area PM me.

LockDoc

You are the best Leon, always willing to help out a stranger. A tip of the hat to you sir.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by RenoKeene

You are the best Leon, always willing to help out a stranger. A tip of the hat to you sir.

Thanks for the kind words Reno. I just know it is hard for some people to have stuff like this done without traveling a lot of miles. If I can help someone out that's great, I just ask them to pay it forward if they ever get the chance.

LockDoc

[PanelDeland]

Originally Posted by RenoKeene

You are the best Leon, always willing to help out a stranger. A tip of the hat to you sir.

I have to disagree.Mainly because I have never seen Leon treat anyone as other than a friend(meaning he acts more like he's helping a friend than a stranger) here on the BB.Still a great gesture and Leon is a top notch guy.

[JRE]

Thanks for the replies. I won't be able to get to it till this weekend. Crossing my fingers it will fix the problem.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by JRE

Thanks for the replies. I won't be able to get to it till this weekend. Crossing my fingers it will fix the problem.

Another thing to look at is the wiring that plugs into the ignition switch. If it is looking all melted, you might want to address that before you sink a ton of money or time into the switch.

I had all kinds of wierd issues until I noticed that on my rig. A new plastic plug from one of the suppliers and a little splice work made them all go away.

[short-t]

This is a good thread! I too am having issues with my ignition sw, when I go to start the engine, on the odd occasion it will start then die. Or if I wiggle the key while it is running I can get the engine to cut in and out or die all together.

Can I get a new ignition switch keyed to my door key? Does anyone have any recommendation on where to get a new ignition sw?

Thanks!

[Classic Heartbeat]

Your ignition switch gets it's power from the fuse box.
The fuse box gets its power from the forward lamp harness. The main power wire will be the large red wire that comes out of the end of the harness on the right sidebehind the battery. That wire is supposed to be a fusable link. It may have gone bad. It should be bolted down to the right front fender lug next to the battery. Either check to see if you have 12 volts coming just beond the fusible link or check it at where the wire plugs into the back of the fuse panel on the firewall.
If you have power there, then the problem could be the starter switch. Before you change the switch you need to rule out the wireing between your fuse panel and your starter switch. To do that check to make sure the big red wire going into the back of the starter switch has power. It should have power all of the time, not just when the key is on.
If you have power there then the switch is the next in line to be tested. With the key in the "Start" possition test the purple wire plugged into the back of the ignition switch. You should have 12 volts there. That is your starter wire so there is only power there when the key is in the start possition. (If no power to the purple wire, then you have a bad starter switch)
If you have 12 volts there, then test the purple wire in the engine harness where it plugs into the fuse panel on the engine side of the firewall. This will take a second person, unless you have unusualy long arms..lol
If you have power there with the ignition switch in the start possition, then test the purple wire it hooks up to the starter solenoid.
If you have power there and your engine still doesn't turn over you may have a bad starter solenoid.
If I missread the post, then disreguard this message... WES

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by short-t

This is a good thread! I too am having issues with my ignition sw, when I go to start the engine, on the odd occasion it will start then die. Or if I wiggle the key while it is running I can get the engine to cut in and out or die all together.

Can I get a new ignition switch keyed to my door key? Does anyone have any recommendation on where to get a new ignition sw?

Thanks!

Any competent locksmith should be able to key a new ignition lock cylinder to your door key. Ignition lock cylinders and ignition switches are available from just about any parts vendor. I would offer my services but I am going to be out of town for a while.

LockDoc

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

The lock cylinder will not come out if you do it that way... First off, 67's do not have an accessory position if they have the original switch in them. You also have to have the key in it to turn the lock cylinder.

FIRST, insert key and turn it to the left as far as it will go. THEN insert a wire, small allen wrench, or straightened paper clip (the large ones work best) into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder and "gently" depress the retainer pin. With the pin depressed turn the cylinder further to the left. After it starts turning you have to remove the wire from the hole or it will bind. After you have it turned to the left as far as it will go wiggle it a little as you pull on the key to remove the lock cylinder.

LockDoc

Very well written "how-to". I scratched my head for a while then searched to this. Thanks! One tip I'd like to add....

I poked the little wire in there, felt the springy latchy thing and turned the cylinder to the left a little. It only went to about 11:00 or so (I've got a '67). I tried and tried to wiggle the cylinder out with no luck. Applied a little blaster and wiggled some more, tried some o-ring picks, still no luck. Then....idea! I backed out the chrome ring that I was trying to get off in the first place and it "pulled" the cylinder out of the body.

Thanks again!

[short-t]

Yes, very well written! Thanks for the help LockDoc.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Very well written "how-to". I scratched my head for a while then searched to this. Thanks! One tip I'd like to add....

I poked the little wire in there, felt the springy latchy thing and turned the cylinder to the left a little. It only went to about 11:00 or so (I've got a '67). I tried and tried to wiggle the cylinder out with no luck. Applied a little blaster and wiggled some more, tried some o-ring picks, still no luck. Then....idea! I backed out the chrome ring that I was trying to get off in the first place and it "pulled" the cylinder out of the body.

Thanks again!

Originally Posted by short-t

Yes, very well written! Thanks for the help LockDoc.

Thanks guys. Glad I could help.

LockDoc

[shelbert]

I am a bit unsure, do you have no spark or is the engine not turning over when you try to start it? The conversation seems to have gone toward the later but your initial post makes me think it has no spark to plugs.

If its no spark to the plugs, i cerainly would not start by taking the ignition switch out. If the truck is turning over you are getting 12volts to the switch. Now whether you are getting 12v keyed power to the coil balast resister is another matter. By memory I cannot remember is there is dedicated keyed power for ignition or not but to test this is very simple. If its still points when the ignition swith is on it should have 12 volts to the balast resister under the hood or 12 volts strait to the HEI. If you are getting 12 volts to the balast resister or HEI plug on the distributer then your problem lies after that not before.

Also you should only get 12 volts to one side of the balast resister, The side going to the coil is lower, I am not sure since i went HEI so long ago but i think around 8-9 volts.

I would probably run a jumper from the battery to the resister and see if I got spark as a test. If you get spark it is save to run it this way but be aware you will have to remove that 12 volts to kill the engine. If I didnt get spark i would run it to the coil directly, Just dont turn it over very long to the coil like this or it will damage it, and do not run the engine this way. If you get spark on this scenario then your coil and points and such are working and you need to look at the 12volt supply to the coil or possibly a bad balast resister. If not you have a problem with coil or distributer.

If its not turning over, then disregard all of the above.