Header Help

[angelsairman]

I tried to install my headers on my 71 1/2 ton sb350 2wd auto today and came a cross many problems. First of all they exit 3 inches from my tranny crossmember and on the drivers side they wont bolt up as the bottom of the header tubes hit the rear portion of the A-arms. Is this normal??? I bought these headers a year ago brand new on ebay and they were specifically for my application(or so the add said) is there a header out there that will work?? or am i stuck with manifolds???

[jef5150]

i dont have headers but,,,,,,,,,,if you post the "type/name" of the headers ,im sure some one can tell you whether they will fit or not,,,,i know these guys run headers on the 67-72...jeff

[Longhorn Man]

A part number will help quite a bit too if you have that.
The problem is, if you look at a header listing for trucks of this vintage, you'll see all kinds of foot notes saying except 4X4 or not with a 4 speed ect.
you may have gotten a set that was only for a small block with automatic.

[angelsairman]

i do not know what the part number was on these headers orignally as i bought them from ebay and they didnt come in the orignal packaging. I cant even remember what brand they were. Im sure that im out the money now i just have to figure out what they will fit so i can at least try to get something for them.

[Longhorn Man]

Huge bummer.

[MOTHERTRUCKERS]

E-mail a picture of them to me and i'll compare them to some 67-72 headers i have here.

[sactoC10]

Is there a list anywhere of headers that will fit 350 automatics without too many problems? I imagine that there are a few different manufacturers out there. So those of us thinking about this won't "bump into" this same problem.

[/<eystroke]

This probably won't help you but here is my thoughts.

I hate the trouble of headers. I just removed the headman headers from
the truck I purchased. The Driver's side collector rubbed a hole in a
1/2" deep dent to allow for the lower A-arm . The #5 tube had been
dented in to clear the frame rail. They were 7 years old and already
rusted out from the flanges and leaked like crazy. They also hung down
about four inches lower than the frame and looked bad in my opinion. I
replaced them with stock manifolds. I'm much happier and quieter
now. I really can't notice any performace difference.

[Broken_down?]

How much power difference woudl headers give as apose to new manifolds and new pipe all the way down.. etc.?


As you can all tell I am new to this truck thing. I am a computer dork.. I have never owned a truck till my 68. So I am still learning. any thoughts on power enhancments (not to expensive)

And I have been told that running a lower temp thermostat is better for what I want. bens I live in CA where it don't get real cold. I was figuring on putting like 160 or the lowest I coudl possibly go. As I hate when my vechiles heat up. any thoughts on that??


Broken_Down?

[sactoC10]

Good question about the thermostat thing, as I also live in warm (too hotthis week) California. I am curious to know. The header debate is also one that I am having, as the manifolds could be painted, don't look bad, work fine and I'm not sure that the headers are worth the potential hassle.

[tom hand]

If you just throw a set of headers on a stock motor and do nothing else, you will see no increase in power...maybe even a decrease. Headers have the potential for more power when used with other go fast goodies, but even then most of your increase will be in the higher RPM's. For a daily driver that rarely sees 5000 rpm, headers are a total waste of time and a PITA. Now if you want to built a weekend warrier to go eat some mustang GT's that's a different story

[Broken_down?]

cool thx for info.. but also what about the thermostat question?
any ideas?


Broken_down?

[MOTHERTRUCKERS]

I agree headers on the street are worthless in a stock or slightly modified truck,car or ?. Wnen you get to doing a cam,heads,intake and carb then you might want to look into them but on a low rpm motor below 5500 rpm headers will give you about 2% over ramhorns and will kill your low end torque. On the thermostat issue you want the motor to run hot enough to burn or evaporate any condensation out of the oil after it sits overnight. Humidity,rainy days etc effects the motor the way it effects everything else, let a vehicle set a year in the weather and see what shape it"s in, start it every week and warm it up to operating temperature and see the differance. I personally run 195 degree in my drag and street motors with an electric fan set at 210 and a shroud, BUT they are inline 292"s, the street truck runs a GODAN 4 core, the drag truck runs a GRIFFIN aluminum. Both have Moroso trans coolers. 1 is slightly modified for street and towing , the other is a 1900 lb v8 eating spoiled alcoholic BI%CH that refuses to hook up after we took the 677 aries alcohol motor out. Don't tell her what I said that, PLEASE.

[Broken_down?]

so it is running a 180�› right now. Do you think it is better to go a bit lower? Cause I want to make sure that the negine always stays real cool. Mostly cause I live in Northern ca and I am pulling moblie trailers/cars etc up thru the mountian very often. Thats why I am picking your guys brains on this matter.

Rich

[Longhorn Man]

I run a 160 in mine, and I do indeed feel more power, and get less vapor lock. I have also seen dynos sheets that show more power with lower temps. Lower water temp also keeps the oil cooler, and the tranny cooler since the tranny oil is cooled with engine coolant.

As for ill fitting headers, the headmans and many other $99 headers are Junk. Good headers don't hang low, don't need smacked witha hammer, and never touch anything at all. Good headers are also thicker, and even though they still rust, they last a long time.
No one has complained about gaskets or bolts yet, but there are ways around those problems too.